Defender - what mileage before serious expense?
Discussion
Hi there,
I've sold my RRS and now looking for an old (1995-2002 vintage) Defender 90 for occasional use in adverse weather, popping down to the Pub etc.
What mileage would be considered reasonable, i.e. it has a decent chance of not needing a rebuild for a while? 100000? 150000? 70000?
I've enjoyed 110's in the bush but never paid any attention to ownership before so not sure what I should be aiming for - I've set a budget of £10k max.
I've seen a few decent looking examples but some are at 110000 miles-odd with lots of bells and whistles and some very basic with 70000 miles-odd. Is the difference in mileage gonna hurt me soon if I'm doing approx. 5000 miles per year?
Cheers
I've sold my RRS and now looking for an old (1995-2002 vintage) Defender 90 for occasional use in adverse weather, popping down to the Pub etc.
What mileage would be considered reasonable, i.e. it has a decent chance of not needing a rebuild for a while? 100000? 150000? 70000?
I've enjoyed 110's in the bush but never paid any attention to ownership before so not sure what I should be aiming for - I've set a budget of £10k max.
I've seen a few decent looking examples but some are at 110000 miles-odd with lots of bells and whistles and some very basic with 70000 miles-odd. Is the difference in mileage gonna hurt me soon if I'm doing approx. 5000 miles per year?
Cheers
Buy on condition not on mileage
We have a '97 300 TDi 90 soft top done 98k miles but in significantly better shape than any other I have seen of same age
My advise would be go and see some before you put your hand in your pocket... Its not rocket science you will soon be able to spot the corroded cross member, rotten chassis / bulkhead
The chassis and bulkhead and the keys ones to ensure are rust n rot free. A good service history is clearly what you want but dont be put off those without a delaer or indie stamp as servicing can be easily done at home . Look for files of receipts for parts and oil and filters n stuff
Buy from an enthusiast and you cant go too far wrong, lots of internet advice from the like of the below
http://www.defender2.net/forum/for-sale-wanted-vf1...
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showforum=9
We have a '97 300 TDi 90 soft top done 98k miles but in significantly better shape than any other I have seen of same age
My advise would be go and see some before you put your hand in your pocket... Its not rocket science you will soon be able to spot the corroded cross member, rotten chassis / bulkhead
The chassis and bulkhead and the keys ones to ensure are rust n rot free. A good service history is clearly what you want but dont be put off those without a delaer or indie stamp as servicing can be easily done at home . Look for files of receipts for parts and oil and filters n stuff
Buy from an enthusiast and you cant go too far wrong, lots of internet advice from the like of the below
http://www.defender2.net/forum/for-sale-wanted-vf1...
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showforum=9
+1 on condition...
Any Defender has the opportunity of becoming a money pit so choose wisely. In fact, when I've been shopping around in the past, I've often found dealers represent quite good value as owners of blinged up rust buckets often have an over inflated opinion as to the value of their car!!!
M
Any Defender has the opportunity of becoming a money pit so choose wisely. In fact, when I've been shopping around in the past, I've often found dealers represent quite good value as owners of blinged up rust buckets often have an over inflated opinion as to the value of their car!!!
M
+1 on condition.
Although if it's a 200/300TDI, you might need an engine overhaul at ~200,000 miles, so watch out for that one (it's not unknown for them to be clocked).
IMHO I would not pay over the odds for bolt-on items such as winches, roofracks, six-zillion-watt light bars, snorkels, lifted suspension and so on - I'd be much keener on a stock vehicle with rot-free chassis (or galvanised chassis), rot-free bulkhead, and lots and lots of bills for servicing and maintenance.
Although if it's a 200/300TDI, you might need an engine overhaul at ~200,000 miles, so watch out for that one (it's not unknown for them to be clocked).
IMHO I would not pay over the odds for bolt-on items such as winches, roofracks, six-zillion-watt light bars, snorkels, lifted suspension and so on - I'd be much keener on a stock vehicle with rot-free chassis (or galvanised chassis), rot-free bulkhead, and lots and lots of bills for servicing and maintenance.
Coolbanana said:
What mileage would be considered reasonable, i.e. it has a decent chance of not needing a rebuild for a while? 100000? 150000? 70000?
I bought mine at 45k. It's now on 176k including some proper Land Rovering.Under my ownership it's had:
New steering box ££
New rear crossmember £££
New gearbox, clutch and flywheel ££££
All of these have occurred past 120k, with the two biggies happening past 150k.
Care for them as a piece of machinery instead of a snap-together Eurobox and they do last.
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