What Range Rover?
Discussion
Hi,I`m new to this so excuse mistakes - I`ve always loved Range Rovers,V8 rovers full stop.I`ve had 4 p6 3500s,love the engines but which R Rover to go for?I love the early 2-dr but my wifes disabled and people have said 4-drs are much user friendly.Then there is the `boxes,I love manuals so which box is best?I also would prefer as less electrics as possible so did any 4drs have wind up windows and normal heaters?I`m OK mechanical wise so can look after a carb engine OK,but is EFI a lot better and reliable?I have also been told that R Rovers can rot bad so go for a new chassis rebuild?I have a couple of classic cars and a R Rover is ideal for towing,another reason for buying one!Thanks any info appreciated.
If you don't want electical this that & the other then you are looking at the Classic.
Check first that your wife's disability doesn't make getting in & out a problem. The coil sprung ones are high vehicles even with side steps.
Main issue is rust. Generally the chassis are OK, its the under panels - floors, sills, inner wings etc - that are the problem. The newest classic you are going to find is going to be nearly 20 years old & the late ones are far worse than the earlier ones.
Mechanically they are easy to work on & parts are available.
Electrically the earlier ones are simpler, mine's a 1986 3.5EFi which has the 'flapper' air flow meter. The ECU on these has a certain notoriety - I've owned the car since 1994 & have had three fail - the later 'hotwire' is better. I've had no issues with the body electrics other than replacing the odd switch - although the main/dip headlight switch can be a problem.
Check first that your wife's disability doesn't make getting in & out a problem. The coil sprung ones are high vehicles even with side steps.
Main issue is rust. Generally the chassis are OK, its the under panels - floors, sills, inner wings etc - that are the problem. The newest classic you are going to find is going to be nearly 20 years old & the late ones are far worse than the earlier ones.
Mechanically they are easy to work on & parts are available.
Electrically the earlier ones are simpler, mine's a 1986 3.5EFi which has the 'flapper' air flow meter. The ECU on these has a certain notoriety - I've owned the car since 1994 & have had three fail - the later 'hotwire' is better. I've had no issues with the body electrics other than replacing the odd switch - although the main/dip headlight switch can be a problem.
Thanks Paintman,I`m looking at classics and 4drs for their usability.So its the dreaded rust as usual that's the deciding factor.What w/shp manual would you say go for,a Haynes or the Rover item?My wife is ok for the height as long as she and the dog are comfy she is fine.I`m 6`2" and I guess there is plenty of room in there for tall people.Have you ever seen "Callan" the movie where a white R Rover classic chases a car and goes thru a big greenhouse?Excellent film and I`ve always wanted a Range Rover since then!
I'm 6'3. Only complaint I've had re legroom in the back seat was from my eldest, but he is just under 6'7!
Get the genuine Land Rover manual. The one for mine's in book form & covers petrol & diesel engined RRC 1986 to 1989 so includes the earlier VM 2.4 & 2.5 diesels fitted prior to the 200TDi. Later manuals are on CD (Usually called RAVE) & can be found on ebay & occasionally on free downloads.
I often refer to the RRC as 'a big boy's meccano set' as that's pretty much what they are!
You will find this link useful, click on 'Spare parts catalogue'then select vehicle of choice from the menu on the left. http://lrparts.ru/engl/
Mine has had quite a lot of welding since I got it, but that's not an issue for me as I DIY (I also SMART repair professionally) & have all the necessary kit incl MIG. Access to most areas is easy as the outer panels unbolt.
Engine wise the 3.5s are virtually bomb proof. SOME of the 3.9s had liner issues, but not as badly as the P38. Regular oil & filter changes are the key to V8 longevity, lack of will see them fill up with the sludge known as the 'black death'. Intervals of 3000 miles are recommended on many of the forums. Mineral oils are fine, don't forget these are old technology engines & thin synthetic oils don't really suit. Genuine or reputable maker filters are a must.
There is a known issue with the manual gearbox/LT230 transfer box combination of wear between the gearbox output shaft & transfer box input gear splines, worst case will see drive lost. Requires gearbox rebuild. Caused by lack of lubrication - which is by splash in the transfer box. Solved by the later crossdrilled input gear. Manifests as a clunk when changing gear & also pulling away - note that a worn A-frame ball joint will also clunk when pulling away.
The ZF autobox/LT230 isn't such an issue as there is a short extension shaft on the gearbox output which is easily changeable with the box in situ.
The headlining covering can also be an issue. The thin foam layer under it fails & it starts to look like the inside of a tent!. Several ways of curing it including complete recovering. Example: http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=8876... if you rightclick on the pics & select 'View image' you'll get the full pic. I replaced mine some years ago with the Nationwide Trim one mentioned in the thread & very good it is too.
Get the genuine Land Rover manual. The one for mine's in book form & covers petrol & diesel engined RRC 1986 to 1989 so includes the earlier VM 2.4 & 2.5 diesels fitted prior to the 200TDi. Later manuals are on CD (Usually called RAVE) & can be found on ebay & occasionally on free downloads.
I often refer to the RRC as 'a big boy's meccano set' as that's pretty much what they are!
You will find this link useful, click on 'Spare parts catalogue'then select vehicle of choice from the menu on the left. http://lrparts.ru/engl/
Mine has had quite a lot of welding since I got it, but that's not an issue for me as I DIY (I also SMART repair professionally) & have all the necessary kit incl MIG. Access to most areas is easy as the outer panels unbolt.
Engine wise the 3.5s are virtually bomb proof. SOME of the 3.9s had liner issues, but not as badly as the P38. Regular oil & filter changes are the key to V8 longevity, lack of will see them fill up with the sludge known as the 'black death'. Intervals of 3000 miles are recommended on many of the forums. Mineral oils are fine, don't forget these are old technology engines & thin synthetic oils don't really suit. Genuine or reputable maker filters are a must.
There is a known issue with the manual gearbox/LT230 transfer box combination of wear between the gearbox output shaft & transfer box input gear splines, worst case will see drive lost. Requires gearbox rebuild. Caused by lack of lubrication - which is by splash in the transfer box. Solved by the later crossdrilled input gear. Manifests as a clunk when changing gear & also pulling away - note that a worn A-frame ball joint will also clunk when pulling away.
The ZF autobox/LT230 isn't such an issue as there is a short extension shaft on the gearbox output which is easily changeable with the box in situ.
The headlining covering can also be an issue. The thin foam layer under it fails & it starts to look like the inside of a tent!. Several ways of curing it including complete recovering. Example: http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=8876... if you rightclick on the pics & select 'View image' you'll get the full pic. I replaced mine some years ago with the Nationwide Trim one mentioned in the thread & very good it is too.
Edited by paintman on Sunday 15th September 15:34
Thanks Paintman that's quite a list of things,seen a few early 4dr manuals I like the look of.Did the early 2dr RRC use a 4spd T-10 borg warner box?The reason I ask is that my old classic car uses one of these `boxes.Also is a vinyl roof better or stick with a painted one?Can`t wait to take my old dad out in a RRC he has always loved them.
Earliest autobox in the RRC was the Chrysler 3-speed A727 Torqueflite. IIRC was fitted from 1982 to 1985 when it was replaced by the ZF4HP22 4-speed.
Only Borg Warner item used was the chain drive transfer box which replaced the LT230 on the last few years of RRC production. Generally quieter & locking the centre differential is done for you by the viscous coupling used with this box. Some prefer the LT230 - you choose when you want difflock - & replace the BW with it.
Bear in mind that the centre difflock only affects the centre differential to give equal power output to both axle differentials, it DOES NOT lock these axle differentials so if one wheel on each axle can slip you'll still get stuck!
The early manuals had the LT95 4-speed with integral transfer box.
I've no view on vinyl roof but if that's what you like & a suitable one comes up then go for it. Don't see many around with vinyl but no reason why you couldn't fit one.
Remember that you are looking for the best vehicle so don't buy a lemon!
Only Borg Warner item used was the chain drive transfer box which replaced the LT230 on the last few years of RRC production. Generally quieter & locking the centre differential is done for you by the viscous coupling used with this box. Some prefer the LT230 - you choose when you want difflock - & replace the BW with it.
Bear in mind that the centre difflock only affects the centre differential to give equal power output to both axle differentials, it DOES NOT lock these axle differentials so if one wheel on each axle can slip you'll still get stuck!
The early manuals had the LT95 4-speed with integral transfer box.
I've no view on vinyl roof but if that's what you like & a suitable one comes up then go for it. Don't see many around with vinyl but no reason why you couldn't fit one.
Remember that you are looking for the best vehicle so don't buy a lemon!
Edited by paintman on Sunday 15th September 20:55
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