Removing anti sway bars, etc from Defender 110
Discussion
2008 Defender 110, 2 inch raised Ironman suspension.
A few times I have become cross-axled when wheels lift, or drop into a hole, and I don't think my articulation is all that it could be.
In this case for instance the rear right wheel was in a hole and spinning but I would have thought the suspension should have allowed it do drop lower down?
Should I be looking to remove bits and bobs to allow the wheels to drop further?
Thoughts?
A few times I have become cross-axled when wheels lift, or drop into a hole, and I don't think my articulation is all that it could be.
In this case for instance the rear right wheel was in a hole and spinning but I would have thought the suspension should have allowed it do drop lower down?
Should I be looking to remove bits and bobs to allow the wheels to drop further?
Thoughts?
By disconnecting your anti roll bar, you will gain only 1" max extra articulation.
I would check the extended length of your shocks first as normally these are the limiting factor when looking at axle articulation.
Of course if you get large articulation, you may have fit dislocation cones to your springs to stop them popping out !
I would check the extended length of your shocks first as normally these are the limiting factor when looking at axle articulation.
Of course if you get large articulation, you may have fit dislocation cones to your springs to stop them popping out !
Does the 110 actually have any anti roll bars? Older Defenders certainly don't and earlier Range Rover's and Disco's don't either. And they can flex much better off road, although will lean more on road.
In terms of generating more flex than stock, that is a far larger picture and will depend on what you really want to achieve and what you want to spend. However it's suffice to say that dislocation cones are not necessarily the answer.
In terms of generating more flex than stock, that is a far larger picture and will depend on what you really want to achieve and what you want to spend. However it's suffice to say that dislocation cones are not necessarily the answer.
ETA:
First thing make sure you have a repeatable bit of terrain to test on, try the problem section with the anti-roll bar connected, see how far you get then repeat with it disconnected.
If it still isn't good enough follow the course of action below.
You definitely do NOT want re/dislocation cones, the springs should remain in contact with the spring seats at all times - the moment this is not the case there is negligible force keeping the lower wheel in contact with the ground. The most travel available with STANDARD coil springs is around 250mm but can be calculated more accurately by subtracting the free length of the spring from the compressed length of the spring. Stock dampers IIRC have about 200mm travel, more is good but too much can cause other problems.
Do not be tempted to extract as much flex as you can from the rear, too much droop travel can result in instability on side-slope or when descending steps one wheel at a time.
Actions?
First thing make sure you have a repeatable bit of terrain to test on, try the problem section with the anti-roll bar connected, see how far you get then repeat with it disconnected.
If it still isn't good enough follow the course of action below.
You definitely do NOT want re/dislocation cones, the springs should remain in contact with the spring seats at all times - the moment this is not the case there is negligible force keeping the lower wheel in contact with the ground. The most travel available with STANDARD coil springs is around 250mm but can be calculated more accurately by subtracting the free length of the spring from the compressed length of the spring. Stock dampers IIRC have about 200mm travel, more is good but too much can cause other problems.
Do not be tempted to extract as much flex as you can from the rear, too much droop travel can result in instability on side-slope or when descending steps one wheel at a time.
Actions?
- Fit longer brake hoses to the front and rear so you have sufficient to cater for full droop, then select dampers accordingly.
- DeCarbon or Bilstein have excellent solutions off the shelf, if you want to go more exotic Prolinx have Fox dampers custom valved for Defender which use OEM damper mounts.
Edited by 100SRV on Friday 18th October 07:50
300bhp/ton said:
A fully extended or even stretched spring won't be applying any down force though. I'm not the biggest fan of dislocating suspension and it isn't what I run. But it can and does work.
Spot on, this is why you need to select the components to ensure that the spring is operating within it's working range. With most 'Rover springs having a free length around 400mm and bound length 120 to 150mm this limits things somewhat but there is room for improvement over stock components.Dislocating suspension looks good at a twist-off ;-) what we want is real-world performance.
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