Disco 2/3 or FFRR ?
Discussion
I'm looking for a decent 4x4 to use as a winter car, as well as the odd trip with the family - budget circa £8k
Having done some research, it looks like I could have my choice of Disco 2, some early Disco 3s or even a FFRR (prob diesel rather than V8).
I'm looking to keep running costs as low as possible, so I'd appreciate your thoughts on reliability and general running costs of these choices ?
Which would be your preference ?
TIA
Having done some research, it looks like I could have my choice of Disco 2, some early Disco 3s or even a FFRR (prob diesel rather than V8).
I'm looking to keep running costs as low as possible, so I'd appreciate your thoughts on reliability and general running costs of these choices ?
Which would be your preference ?
TIA
Have a search on here for the FFRR stuff as ISTR PH published a Range Rover buyers guide a few months back.
For the D3... Firstly, get an auto, don't bother with a manual. Comprehensive service history. Good quality tyres, no knocking when driving, no warning lights, all the toys work, etc...
As others will say; These are expensive cars and expensive to maintain. Just coz you're now picking up a £50k car for £8k, doesn't mean the servicing bills are going to be any cheaper!!??!!
M
For the D3... Firstly, get an auto, don't bother with a manual. Comprehensive service history. Good quality tyres, no knocking when driving, no warning lights, all the toys work, etc...
As others will say; These are expensive cars and expensive to maintain. Just coz you're now picking up a £50k car for £8k, doesn't mean the servicing bills are going to be any cheaper!!??!!
M
AT £8k for a D3, you will either very high mile (150-200k) auto/SE models. AT £8k you are looking at the manual cars with basic trim levels. Not a bad thing, but you wouldn't get 7 seats or air suspension on some models.
As others have said, I advise going for a nice D2 TD5. Just check the chassis for rust and check the usual LR suspects such as every setting on the gearbox and all electrics ect ect.
As others have said, I advise going for a nice D2 TD5. Just check the chassis for rust and check the usual LR suspects such as every setting on the gearbox and all electrics ect ect.
To be honest, I'd be getting as late a model D2 TD5 as I could for that money. Ideally in either ES or Landmark spec which will give you leather, air-con, 7 seats, electrics all round, upgraded ICE, dual sunroofs, a 2004 model with no more than 70k on the clock. Great cars, more than comfy for long journeys and enough toys to keep you happy. IMO, the second best car I've ever had.
If you could spare an extra £5k, then I'd be looking at the D3, and definitely an auto, SE spec as a minimum.
If you could spare an extra £5k, then I'd be looking at the D3, and definitely an auto, SE spec as a minimum.
Top end of your budget but this looks nice.
http://www.waltonmotors.co.uk/land-rover-discovery...
12 months warranty and MOT,If I had a few more spare pennies in the bank I'd have it.
http://www.waltonmotors.co.uk/land-rover-discovery...
12 months warranty and MOT,If I had a few more spare pennies in the bank I'd have it.
Edited by Emily's dad on Thursday 5th December 09:00
Specialists I've spoken to seem to want to avoid D3s like the plague as being generally unreliable even for JLR.
FFRR would be nice but potentially expensive - lots and lots of electrics that woulld be 10 years and 100k old. Very tempting though.
D2 are old but you'd get a good un at that budget. But old school problems - leaks, rust etc. Cheaper to buy and fix mind.
FFRR would be nice but potentially expensive - lots and lots of electrics that woulld be 10 years and 100k old. Very tempting though.
D2 are old but you'd get a good un at that budget. But old school problems - leaks, rust etc. Cheaper to buy and fix mind.
DKL said:
Specialists I've spoken to seem to want to avoid D3s like the plague as being generally unreliable even for JLR.
FFRR would be nice but potentially expensive - lots and lots of electrics that woulld be 10 years and 100k old. Very tempting though.
D2 are old but you'd get a good un at that budget. But old school problems - leaks, rust etc. Cheaper to buy and fix mind.
What specialists have you been speaking too? I hate to point the obvious out, but a specialist not wanting to deal with the vehicles they specialise in, would somewhat reduce my opinion of them.FFRR would be nice but potentially expensive - lots and lots of electrics that woulld be 10 years and 100k old. Very tempting though.
D2 are old but you'd get a good un at that budget. But old school problems - leaks, rust etc. Cheaper to buy and fix mind.
Thanks Folks, some good advice.
I've taken your guidance and have started looking at good quality D2s rather than D3s or FFRRs. I've actually found one that meets my criteria (Man, less 100K miles, Max £8K) and plan to go see it tomorrow.
Let me know what you think, and if there is anything particular I should look for ?
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2013...
Thanks
I've taken your guidance and have started looking at good quality D2s rather than D3s or FFRRs. I've actually found one that meets my criteria (Man, less 100K miles, Max £8K) and plan to go see it tomorrow.
Let me know what you think, and if there is anything particular I should look for ?
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2013...
Thanks
300bhp/ton said:
What specialists have you been speaking too? I hate to point the obvious out, but a specialist not wanting to deal with the vehicles they specialise in, would somewhat reduce my opinion of them.
Fair enough but this is a chap who has sold/lived with/maintained LR products since the year dot and is very happy with D4 just not the 3s. I see no reason why offering an informed opinion would reduce yours of him. Do you endorse every product in the ranges you deal with? - I know I don't.
Its his living and he does well from it so its not just pub talk.
I sold a my well sorted d2 facelift td5 es with 102km miles for just under 4k a few weeks ago. 8k is mental for a d2 imo. I would say 5k at the top end.
Normal issues aside (leaking sunroofs/windscreens, oil pump bolts, oil in the ecu harness, etc etc) d2s are getting on and rust on the rear chassis rail is likely, ace pipes will be crusty. Ace is good but costly to fix.
Cant advise on the d3 other than to say it make the £'s I spent on yhe d2 look like pocket change according to my local mechanic.
One final thing- the performance of a standard td5 is grim and defo benefits from a quality remap.
Normal issues aside (leaking sunroofs/windscreens, oil pump bolts, oil in the ecu harness, etc etc) d2s are getting on and rust on the rear chassis rail is likely, ace pipes will be crusty. Ace is good but costly to fix.
Cant advise on the d3 other than to say it make the £'s I spent on yhe d2 look like pocket change according to my local mechanic.
One final thing- the performance of a standard td5 is grim and defo benefits from a quality remap.
Odds said:
Thanks Folks, some good advice.
I've taken your guidance and have started looking at good quality D2s rather than D3s or FFRRs. I've actually found one that meets my criteria (Man, less 100K miles, Max £8K) and plan to go see it tomorrow.
Let me know what you think, and if there is anything particular I should look for ?
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2013...
Thanks
looks good, I'd have it straight round to Je-engineering for a stage 2 upgrade though. makes it sooo much better.. mine lasted 2 weeks from new till i had that done..I've taken your guidance and have started looking at good quality D2s rather than D3s or FFRRs. I've actually found one that meets my criteria (Man, less 100K miles, Max £8K) and plan to go see it tomorrow.
Let me know what you think, and if there is anything particular I should look for ?
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2013...
Thanks
still got it 10 years and 100k later..
as for reliability, its never left me stranded and the sum total of parts its had are
2* maf sensors on warranty
2 manifold studs
rear hub unit cos the oil seal went and killed the abs sensor
fuel pipes cos the main dealer ( now defunct) cocked up the recall on the fuel pipes..
plus service items and brake pads, and a set of rear disks.
the original tyres did 60k on the front 80 on the rear... replacement fronts did 30k !
I did split the intercooler but i can blame lr for that as its aftermarket and running more boost.
I thought I had a water leak from somewhere, as the carpets were wet, turned out to be the a/c drains.. sorted with a bit of wire..
I am about to change the dampers for a set of billy as the bottom bushes are worn on the front and its a good excuse for a bit of an upgrade..
Its still running the original battery and exhaust..
not bad for a motor that spent half its life towing 2 tons of race car and trailer..
I've not got ace, but I do have rear air
Edited by Graham on Friday 6th December 10:54
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