Facelift Freelander TD4 Buyers guide
Discussion
Same checks as the preface lift apply.
Only real change is the addition of a heated windscreen and rear parking sensors. Both standard on SE, HSE models and some Sport Premiums.
It's just a change of bumper, headlights, and back lights, the dash is different but mechanically, same car so same bits go wrong on each.
Check everything over, twice. Make sure all windows work, the lights work, the sensors work, and if fitted, the heated windscreen and seats work. Parking sensors will sound a long beep if the system is not working. Usually a sensor has failed.
Sun roofs don't leak, the rear tailgate seal can fail and fill the boot cubby box with water, replace seal and that sorts it.
Drop links can go, fit decent replacements and maybe genuines if you want peace of mind.
If the miles are over 80k, i would change the VCU and prop bearings, Bell Enginneering gets a very good name for quality parts.
Also, best tyres go in the back to help the VCU.
Realistically, the best car is a SE, TD4 auto. It has the parking sensors, heated seats, mirrors, windscreen etc, 6 disc auto changer, half leather seats, air con, sun roof and 16s. Auto means no slave and master cylinder issues and diesel is a BMW engine and very reliable with good servicing.
Only real change is the addition of a heated windscreen and rear parking sensors. Both standard on SE, HSE models and some Sport Premiums.
It's just a change of bumper, headlights, and back lights, the dash is different but mechanically, same car so same bits go wrong on each.
Check everything over, twice. Make sure all windows work, the lights work, the sensors work, and if fitted, the heated windscreen and seats work. Parking sensors will sound a long beep if the system is not working. Usually a sensor has failed.
Sun roofs don't leak, the rear tailgate seal can fail and fill the boot cubby box with water, replace seal and that sorts it.
Drop links can go, fit decent replacements and maybe genuines if you want peace of mind.
If the miles are over 80k, i would change the VCU and prop bearings, Bell Enginneering gets a very good name for quality parts.
Also, best tyres go in the back to help the VCU.
Realistically, the best car is a SE, TD4 auto. It has the parking sensors, heated seats, mirrors, windscreen etc, 6 disc auto changer, half leather seats, air con, sun roof and 16s. Auto means no slave and master cylinder issues and diesel is a BMW engine and very reliable with good servicing.
Cheers.
Since posting this topic I've done A LOT of reading and you seem to be the resident expert in all things Freelander round these parts.
I'm fine with the engine, ran the same lump in an MGZT.
Electrical gremlins I can deal with myself although too many in a short order might make me angry.
VCU swap seems DIYable, have a mate with a a couple of 2 posts lifts I can use if required.
Checked tyre prices, not too bad even for the sport alloys.
It needs to be manual, I do 25K miles a year and the difference in MPG between manual and Auto will make a big difference to my wallet.
I'll try and avoid one with a tow hook as it's less likely to have had the clutch stressed as much. I'll be using it for towing myself though, but adding a tow hook is an hours job by the looks of it.
I've so far viewed 4 and driven 2.
1) First car a TD4 Sport. It has a mess inside and out, smelled damp, didn't even bother driving it.
2) Second car a TD4 HSE. Better than than the 1st but also stank of damp. Dealer attitude set off alarm bells so again didn't drive.
3) Third one a TD4 Freestyle. A bit "worn" but servicable, one rear window not working. Actually quite a nice spec the Freestyle just missing the full leather and heated screen of the HSEs. Drove beautifully but the interior and exterior were too worn for the £5.5k asking price. Had it been tidier I'd have left a deposit.
4) Fourth car a TD4 HSE. Spotless, the whole car was pretty much like new to look at. Shame it drove so badly. No power at all despite the dealer telling me "It's a diesel yo need to really rev them to get the power as it's all at 4K rpm". Yes, of course it is, muppet. Also had a bad drone co,ing from the rear at anything over walking pace. I told them about both and they said the car was perfect and they're all like that. Walked away.
Weirdly despite all the negativity around these, the fact all four I have looked at have been quite far off what I would part with my money for and the fact I currently drive a hyper reliable and fast Honda Civic TypeR, I still really wan tone of these. I think I need help, lol.
Since posting this topic I've done A LOT of reading and you seem to be the resident expert in all things Freelander round these parts.
I'm fine with the engine, ran the same lump in an MGZT.
Electrical gremlins I can deal with myself although too many in a short order might make me angry.
VCU swap seems DIYable, have a mate with a a couple of 2 posts lifts I can use if required.
Checked tyre prices, not too bad even for the sport alloys.
It needs to be manual, I do 25K miles a year and the difference in MPG between manual and Auto will make a big difference to my wallet.
I'll try and avoid one with a tow hook as it's less likely to have had the clutch stressed as much. I'll be using it for towing myself though, but adding a tow hook is an hours job by the looks of it.
I've so far viewed 4 and driven 2.
1) First car a TD4 Sport. It has a mess inside and out, smelled damp, didn't even bother driving it.
2) Second car a TD4 HSE. Better than than the 1st but also stank of damp. Dealer attitude set off alarm bells so again didn't drive.
3) Third one a TD4 Freestyle. A bit "worn" but servicable, one rear window not working. Actually quite a nice spec the Freestyle just missing the full leather and heated screen of the HSEs. Drove beautifully but the interior and exterior were too worn for the £5.5k asking price. Had it been tidier I'd have left a deposit.
4) Fourth car a TD4 HSE. Spotless, the whole car was pretty much like new to look at. Shame it drove so badly. No power at all despite the dealer telling me "It's a diesel yo need to really rev them to get the power as it's all at 4K rpm". Yes, of course it is, muppet. Also had a bad drone co,ing from the rear at anything over walking pace. I told them about both and they said the car was perfect and they're all like that. Walked away.
Weirdly despite all the negativity around these, the fact all four I have looked at have been quite far off what I would part with my money for and the fact I currently drive a hyper reliable and fast Honda Civic TypeR, I still really wan tone of these. I think I need help, lol.
Edited by HorneyMX5 on Tuesday 14th April 17:18
2 leaking back door seals and one with either a gubbed turbo or injectors.
Good start..
I've had 2 of the buggers and learned the expensive way, the weak spots and i can safely rule out 4 garage's, 2 of them Landy specialists in the Central Belt of Scotland for being useless brain dead muppets who made the car worse than it went in.
If you really need a manual, then if it needs one of the cylinders changed. Fit genuine. Don't fit Britpart, don't fit anything other than genuine. Trust me. Trust my wallet. Ignore this at your own cost.
You'll have read about blanking the EGR, fitting the better hoses and either changing the crank case filter at each service, or fitting the bmw filter upgrade and never having to worry about it again.
They do remap very well. My best mpg was 44.5mpg and 598 miles to one tank.
Good start..
I've had 2 of the buggers and learned the expensive way, the weak spots and i can safely rule out 4 garage's, 2 of them Landy specialists in the Central Belt of Scotland for being useless brain dead muppets who made the car worse than it went in.
If you really need a manual, then if it needs one of the cylinders changed. Fit genuine. Don't fit Britpart, don't fit anything other than genuine. Trust me. Trust my wallet. Ignore this at your own cost.
You'll have read about blanking the EGR, fitting the better hoses and either changing the crank case filter at each service, or fitting the bmw filter upgrade and never having to worry about it again.
They do remap very well. My best mpg was 44.5mpg and 598 miles to one tank.
HorneyMX5 said:
4) Fourth car a TD4 HSE. Spotless, the whole car was pretty much like new to look at. Shame it drove so badly. No power at all despite the dealer telling me "It's a diesel yo need to really rev them to get the power as it's all at 4K rpm". Yes, of course it is, muppet. Also had a bad drone co,ing from the rear at anything over walking pace. I told them about both and they said the car was perfect and they're all like that. Walked away.
Well he's sort of right. They all have a drone from the back when they need the rear diff to be worked on!It's a known issue, and has a specific fix/repair pack available from LR for it as it's so common.
S
There are some real turds out there. I did 280 miles and viewed 5 on Saturday. I wouldn't have parted with cash for any of them no matter how much I could of haggled off!
It seems most of them have been owned by people who really don't consider car maintenance, cleaning and avoiding crashing into things as important.
It seems most of them have been owned by people who really don't consider car maintenance, cleaning and avoiding crashing into things as important.
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