RRC auto box oil-change
Discussion
Hi guys, just bought a '91 RRC for a bit of off-roading (it's been prepared for off-roading already so I haven't ruined another one 
)
It's a 3.9i with the ZF auto box, I've changed the engine and all the diff oils, but how do I go about replacing the oil in the 'box? I've read many places saying its a main dealer job or that they are 'lifed' so the oil doesn't need changed.
Any one changed the oil and able to give a heads-up?
Thanks
)It's a 3.9i with the ZF auto box, I've changed the engine and all the diff oils, but how do I go about replacing the oil in the 'box? I've read many places saying its a main dealer job or that they are 'lifed' so the oil doesn't need changed.
Any one changed the oil and able to give a heads-up?
Thanks
This is based on mine which is a 1986 3.5EFi but the auto box is the same.
Firstly a caveat from Ashcroft Transmissions website:
"I have a 4 speed ZF Auto and it sticks in first gear in the morning or when cold and is reluctant to change up from 1st gear. Once the gearbox has warmed up it shifts normally. Why?
The governor valve is sticking, which can be caused by contamination. i.e. clutch plates or other parts disintegrating. The fine debris finds its way past the filter and tends to accumulate in the governor, causing it to stick. A temporary solution is to remove and clean the governor. The problem will often recur as debris from damaged parts continues to build up in the governor. If the problem continues after cleaning the governor then it may be necessary it replace your Autobox.
We have noticed many customers reporting this fault starting a few days after an oil and filter change and after researching this using our experience and the expertise of others in the trade we have come to the conclusion that as ATF oil is a detergent type oil, when the oil is changed this will dislodge and stir up settled debris in the autobox which in turn jams the governor valve. In light of this although it sounds controversial it is debateable if changing the oil and filter is a good idea, some say if the box it going to fail it will fail if the oil is good or bad and their advice is leave it alone. I am still undecided but the truth is I get a lot of calls from customers thinking they are looking after the autobox by servicing it and a few days later this fault occurs."
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/frequently...
To just change the fluid:
Establish the level on the dipstick is correct: http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/22837... (I do mine in 'N')
Drain the old fluid by removing the plug in the bottom of the gearbox sump.
Measure the quantity of fluid that drains out. It should be a nice red colour, not brown or smelling burnt. Replace via the dipstick tube the same quantity. This will NOT be as the figure given in workshop manuals as that is for a completely empty system & a lot of fluid is retained in the torque converter and can't be drained.
Check that the level is correct.
If you want to change the filter screen in the gearbox you will need to drop the gearbox sump & this will likely involve the removal of the crossmember which is a big heavy piece of metal slightly too wide for the gap it fits in. I used a lump hammer to persuade mine it wanted to come out - others have used jacks to spread the chassis slightly.
There's a write up on rangerovers.net showing this being done on a P38 - unfortunately the ones showing the classic have disappeared but it's basically the same & will give you the idea.
Note that the sump bolts have metal clamps which need to go back in their original positions.
http://www.rangerovers.net/maintenance/transervice...
The workshop manual for yours is the RAVE CD disc & you should be able to download one or look at the relevant section online - or buy from ebay - & I would suggest you do this before dropping the sump.
The sump seal I had with the kit - Britpart - was a little undersized & needed a bit of careful stretching to fit the sump rim. No leaks since so it worked!
Firstly a caveat from Ashcroft Transmissions website:
"I have a 4 speed ZF Auto and it sticks in first gear in the morning or when cold and is reluctant to change up from 1st gear. Once the gearbox has warmed up it shifts normally. Why?
The governor valve is sticking, which can be caused by contamination. i.e. clutch plates or other parts disintegrating. The fine debris finds its way past the filter and tends to accumulate in the governor, causing it to stick. A temporary solution is to remove and clean the governor. The problem will often recur as debris from damaged parts continues to build up in the governor. If the problem continues after cleaning the governor then it may be necessary it replace your Autobox.
We have noticed many customers reporting this fault starting a few days after an oil and filter change and after researching this using our experience and the expertise of others in the trade we have come to the conclusion that as ATF oil is a detergent type oil, when the oil is changed this will dislodge and stir up settled debris in the autobox which in turn jams the governor valve. In light of this although it sounds controversial it is debateable if changing the oil and filter is a good idea, some say if the box it going to fail it will fail if the oil is good or bad and their advice is leave it alone. I am still undecided but the truth is I get a lot of calls from customers thinking they are looking after the autobox by servicing it and a few days later this fault occurs."
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/frequently...
To just change the fluid:
Establish the level on the dipstick is correct: http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/22837... (I do mine in 'N')
Drain the old fluid by removing the plug in the bottom of the gearbox sump.
Measure the quantity of fluid that drains out. It should be a nice red colour, not brown or smelling burnt. Replace via the dipstick tube the same quantity. This will NOT be as the figure given in workshop manuals as that is for a completely empty system & a lot of fluid is retained in the torque converter and can't be drained.
Check that the level is correct.
If you want to change the filter screen in the gearbox you will need to drop the gearbox sump & this will likely involve the removal of the crossmember which is a big heavy piece of metal slightly too wide for the gap it fits in. I used a lump hammer to persuade mine it wanted to come out - others have used jacks to spread the chassis slightly.
There's a write up on rangerovers.net showing this being done on a P38 - unfortunately the ones showing the classic have disappeared but it's basically the same & will give you the idea.
Note that the sump bolts have metal clamps which need to go back in their original positions.
http://www.rangerovers.net/maintenance/transervice...
The workshop manual for yours is the RAVE CD disc & you should be able to download one or look at the relevant section online - or buy from ebay - & I would suggest you do this before dropping the sump.
The sump seal I had with the kit - Britpart - was a little undersized & needed a bit of careful stretching to fit the sump rim. No leaks since so it worked!
Edited by paintman on Saturday 23 January 10:21
It all sounds a bit scary really 
I haven't checked the level in the 'box yet but was surprised how smooth it changed gears up and down. I may well change the oil but the whole idea of creating problems by replacing the filter is a bit daunting. It's only for using off road so I doubt it will ever see 50mph. That said the oil will get hot while off roading, so maybe I should just bite the bullet!
I haven't checked the level in the 'box yet but was surprised how smooth it changed gears up and down. I may well change the oil but the whole idea of creating problems by replacing the filter is a bit daunting. It's only for using off road so I doubt it will ever see 50mph. That said the oil will get hot while off roading, so maybe I should just bite the bullet!
I was twitchy about doing mine, but went for it anyway. Mileage was relatively low (65,000) so I figured it was now or never!
It was a bit of a pig because if you look underneath, there is a chassis cross brace right across the sump of the autobox. This took a lot of "persuasion" to remove. The manual says there is a chassis spreader tool to use, but I didn't have anything so relied on a big hammer and some pry bars. I had to split the exhaust system as well. The actual sump removal and filter change is dead easy! Try and do it somewhere dust free so you don't get crud blowing into the box.
It was a bit of a pig because if you look underneath, there is a chassis cross brace right across the sump of the autobox. This took a lot of "persuasion" to remove. The manual says there is a chassis spreader tool to use, but I didn't have anything so relied on a big hammer and some pry bars. I had to split the exhaust system as well. The actual sump removal and filter change is dead easy! Try and do it somewhere dust free so you don't get crud blowing into the box.
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