Alloy wheel rust.....
Discussion
Hi, do you mean the wheel itself or the hub that it mounts to?
On the wheel a good body shop should be able to sand it back and repaint it to take car of the corrosion on the alloy - just make sure that the shop has a proper oven or the paint will fall off. Also avoid smart repairs, these are a sales bodge and won't last more than a few months. Depending on your location I can recommend a couple of good firms
On the wheel a good body shop should be able to sand it back and repaint it to take car of the corrosion on the alloy - just make sure that the shop has a proper oven or the paint will fall off. Also avoid smart repairs, these are a sales bodge and won't last more than a few months. Depending on your location I can recommend a couple of good firms
Ive just re-painted my wheel hubs because of exactly the same problem.
Used Hammerite, apparently it has rust prevention properties so the rust needs no treatment prior to applying the paint. It was recommended to me to lightly rub the hubs down with 'red scotch brite' (available on flea bay for not much, couldn't find it in B&Q). Rub it down, wipe down to remove the dust, painted on the Hammerite with a small brush, leave for an hour (or longer if you can), wheel back on. I didnt paint the wheel bolts or contact points, just the surround of the hub i.e. the bit you can see in your picture.
Best colour match was the smooth silver, not exactly the same as the original (a matt grey) but matches with the alloy wheels quite nicely.
Used Hammerite, apparently it has rust prevention properties so the rust needs no treatment prior to applying the paint. It was recommended to me to lightly rub the hubs down with 'red scotch brite' (available on flea bay for not much, couldn't find it in B&Q). Rub it down, wipe down to remove the dust, painted on the Hammerite with a small brush, leave for an hour (or longer if you can), wheel back on. I didnt paint the wheel bolts or contact points, just the surround of the hub i.e. the bit you can see in your picture.
Best colour match was the smooth silver, not exactly the same as the original (a matt grey) but matches with the alloy wheels quite nicely.
That rust is part of the disc. You could rub it down and paint it. But will be more than a 5 min job.
Hammerite is a bit rubbish, but easily available. POR15 is much better, but you'll need to buy online. Or get another direct to rust paint. Don't get paint on the disc surface. And sadly as they are already rusted, what ever you will do will likely be temporary.
Black would probably be the most unobtrusive.
Hammerite is a bit rubbish, but easily available. POR15 is much better, but you'll need to buy online. Or get another direct to rust paint. Don't get paint on the disc surface. And sadly as they are already rusted, what ever you will do will likely be temporary.
Black would probably be the most unobtrusive.
The part I think you're referring to is the brake disc. They get very hot and with washing the car and general road grime it won't stay looking nice on the 'hub' mounting part of the disc for very long. Even if you were to plate or powder coat the 'hub' section, it wouldn't stay perfect forever.
Proper preparation of the surface to be painted to enable the new paint to adhere is what prevents new paint 'falling off'. Most of those I see & deal with the old surface hasn't been scuffed up so the new paint hasn't a chance.
If the surface isn't correctly prepared you can bake it until the cows come home in the best bodyshop in the world & you'll still have adhesion issues further down the line. Other than complete vehicle resprays the use of infra-red lamps either singly or in banks is common in bodyshops. Speeds up throughput & less cost than heating the booth & if you're doing insurance work it's got to be quick as what they want to pay is peanuts.
As has been stated, the rusted metal you can see is not the wheel. It's the bell of the brake disc. If it really bugs you that much & you want to DIY then jack up & remove the wheel. Degrease the bell, clean the rust off - wire angle grinder brush is ideal - degrease again & apply a high temperature paint. The stuff sold for use on motorcycle cylinder barrels will do, follow the instructions on the tin. You may need to repeat from time to time but it will take the eye off it. Wear appropriate eye & breathing protection.
If the surface isn't correctly prepared you can bake it until the cows come home in the best bodyshop in the world & you'll still have adhesion issues further down the line. Other than complete vehicle resprays the use of infra-red lamps either singly or in banks is common in bodyshops. Speeds up throughput & less cost than heating the booth & if you're doing insurance work it's got to be quick as what they want to pay is peanuts.
As has been stated, the rusted metal you can see is not the wheel. It's the bell of the brake disc. If it really bugs you that much & you want to DIY then jack up & remove the wheel. Degrease the bell, clean the rust off - wire angle grinder brush is ideal - degrease again & apply a high temperature paint. The stuff sold for use on motorcycle cylinder barrels will do, follow the instructions on the tin. You may need to repeat from time to time but it will take the eye off it. Wear appropriate eye & breathing protection.
Edited by paintman on Tuesday 19th April 20:46
Gassing Station | Land Rover | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff