2001 Y reg worth a punt?
Discussion
Hi guys, just moved over from the tvr forums to RR so hope you don't mind answering some basic questions. My wife would like an old style RR and has seen a 2001 in Y fsh and only 2 owners. We know nothing about them and having popped around some garages they told us to stay clear. But somebody must buy them! Are they really that expensive to own? Thank you in advance,
Curtis
Curtis
They can be alot of trouble, but later ones are supposed to be better on the electronics side, after they swithed from lucas to bosch.
I have 1997 4.6 have only had it a couple of months, and had a few problems already.
It helps if your mechanically minded yourself, because if you have to rely on a garage to fix every little problem, it could get expensive.
I have 1997 4.6 have only had it a couple of months, and had a few problems already.
It helps if your mechanically minded yourself, because if you have to rely on a garage to fix every little problem, it could get expensive.
Check coolant leaks in drivers footwell - I've looked at 6 P38's - 3 of them had coolant in the footwell.
Condition of lower tailgate under the plastic flap
Check condition of the air-springs (put the suspension on "high")- check for split or perished springs.
I'm looking at slightly older ones and I've found lots of dogs out there, dont buy the first one you see - or at least go and look at few others to decide if this one is a good one.
Condition of lower tailgate under the plastic flap
Check condition of the air-springs (put the suspension on "high")- check for split or perished springs.
I'm looking at slightly older ones and I've found lots of dogs out there, dont buy the first one you see - or at least go and look at few others to decide if this one is a good one.
I have a Y reg P38. It's been a fantastic car so far, but I've only had it a couple of weeks, so anything might happen. The only repairs other than general service items I have seen in the history were the replacement of a couple of gaitors, and I know the previous owner was extremely picky about maintainance.
The general quality of the electronics looks to be streets ahead of the earlier ones, so I am hoping not to have problems here.
As Eliot says, check the air suspension! It's not too expensive to fix if you can find the problem and do the work yourself. If you rely on garages, then big bills might happen.
He's also right about the tail gate. This area gets neglected because it is never seen in normal use.
I think if you want an older shape Rangie then the 2001 model is the one to go for simply because of the generally better electrical spec (and a few nicer bits on the engine).
The expensive bit so far has been pouring £80 of unleaded into it every week. 16 mpg is achievable round town if you're very light footed. Thankfully I only plan to use it while the weather is bad or I have something to tow or I decide roads are silly and strike out across the uncharted areas of the Isle of Wight
The general quality of the electronics looks to be streets ahead of the earlier ones, so I am hoping not to have problems here.
As Eliot says, check the air suspension! It's not too expensive to fix if you can find the problem and do the work yourself. If you rely on garages, then big bills might happen.
He's also right about the tail gate. This area gets neglected because it is never seen in normal use.
I think if you want an older shape Rangie then the 2001 model is the one to go for simply because of the generally better electrical spec (and a few nicer bits on the engine).
The expensive bit so far has been pouring £80 of unleaded into it every week. 16 mpg is achievable round town if you're very light footed. Thankfully I only plan to use it while the weather is bad or I have something to tow or I decide roads are silly and strike out across the uncharted areas of the Isle of Wight

Had a classic before, and have done 3000 pain-free miles in my P38A 4.6 Autobiography since buying it for peanuts just before Christmas. Drove from Sussex coast to Dundee and back straight after picking her up.
Absolutely love it. And for when things go wrong turn to rangerovers.net
Main thing to check on (all the time) is the coolant level and the temp gauge.
Absolutely love it. And for when things go wrong turn to rangerovers.net
Main thing to check on (all the time) is the coolant level and the temp gauge.
thanks all for your invaluable feedback. i have taken it onboard and hopefully put it to good use when i come across one that i like. incidentally i someone has offered me the opportunity to view one with 80k miles. he has changed the suspension from air to coil and springs?! listening to what you guys are saying this sounds like a good thing? this is a 97 2.5 diesel for around 4k. any thoughts?
blueb8 said:
later ones are supposed to be better on the electronics side, after they swithed from lucas to bosch.
Anything from 2000 onwards should have bosch electronics, and many of the gremlins will have been resolved.eliot said:
Check coolant leaks in drivers footwell - I've looked at 6 P38's - 3 of them had coolant in the footwell.
Behind the porous block/slipped liner, this is the biggie. Caused by failed O-rings where the pipework comes through the bulkhead into the heater matrix behind the dashboard. O-rings are cheap to replace The labour charge to remove the dashboard to get at them however, is not.Worth checking for staining on the carpet in the drivers footwell, as some traders have been known to dry out the footwell carpet when it comes to viewing time.....
richardxjr said:
Main thing to check on (all the time) is the coolant level and the temp gauge.
Probably some of the best advice here. Also budget for a replacement radiator, or check the service documentation for evidence of regular checks on the cooling system.richardxjr said:
And for when things go wrong turn to rangerovers.net
Quite possibly the best resource for Rangie information and advice on the internet.Not sure a diesel is the way to go though, whilst you get (slightly) better MPG, the price differential between petrol and diesel will soon wipe out the MPG benefit.
Also, a diesel Rangie has the performance of a Victorian wardrobe. 0-60 can be measured in minutes rather than seconds

Consider LPG as an option, but again, look for a good installation, and research properly.
Meeja said:
Not sure a diesel is the way to go though, whilst you get (slightly) better MPG, the price differential between petrol and diesel will soon wipe out the MPG benefit.
Also, a diesel Rangie has the performance of a Victorian wardrobe. 0-60 can be measured in minutes rather than seconds
That's the big reason I went for a v8 petrol. The premium for getting a diesel was something like £1500, and that pays for a years fuel.Also, a diesel Rangie has the performance of a Victorian wardrobe. 0-60 can be measured in minutes rather than seconds

Meeja said:
Behind the porous block/slipped liner, this is the biggie. Caused by failed O-rings where the pipework comes through the bulkhead into the heater matrix behind the dashboard. O-rings are cheap to replace The labour charge to remove the dashboard to get at them however, is not.
You don't need to remove the dash to do the O rings. I replaced mine (at a cost of around 25p) with an hour or so of scrumming around in the footwell.GKP said:
Meeja said:
Behind the porous block/slipped liner, this is the biggie. Caused by failed O-rings where the pipework comes through the bulkhead into the heater matrix behind the dashboard. O-rings are cheap to replace The labour charge to remove the dashboard to get at them however, is not.
You don't need to remove the dash to do the O rings. I replaced mine (at a cost of around 25p) with an hour or so of scrumming around in the footwell.If you do find yourself in a position where you have a dealer or indy looking at replacing the O rings, it may be worth checking the condition of the blend motors at the same time - seeing as they will be accessible at the same time
dnb said:
Meeja said:
Not sure a diesel is the way to go though, whilst you get (slightly) better MPG, the price differential between petrol and diesel will soon wipe out the MPG benefit.
Also, a diesel Rangie has the performance of a Victorian wardrobe. 0-60 can be measured in minutes rather than seconds
That's the big reason I went for a v8 petrol. The premium for getting a diesel was something like £1500, and that pays for a years fuel.Also, a diesel Rangie has the performance of a Victorian wardrobe. 0-60 can be measured in minutes rather than seconds

Plus there is something about the roar of a V8!! 
chibs said:
thanks all for your invaluable feedback. i have taken it onboard and hopefully put it to good use when i come across one that i like. incidentally i someone has offered me the opportunity to view one with 80k miles. he has changed the suspension from air to coil and springs?! listening to what you guys are saying this sounds like a good thing? this is a 97 2.5 diesel for around 4k. any thoughts?
I wouldn't. From what I've read, you lose all the ride quality and the handy up 'n' down adjustment. New airbags aren't that expensive when they wear out, other stuff like compressors & ECUs easily got off ebay etc. My 97 4.6 now has 92k and it all works fine (touch wood veneer)Changing to springs is fair enough for a mostly off road toy, but not for a mainly road car AFAIC
I'm possibly looking at a Range Rover for a new business venture of a similar spec to the OP.
2001 Y reg, 4.0 HSE Auto with LPG conversion done May 2008 or 114,000 miles. Looks in great condition to me, but would need to check the essentials as listed above in this thread. The price of £6290 seems a bit steep to me though???
I would only require this for 6 months before switching to a lease vehicle for tax purposes. Would this RR be suitable for a 6 month stint to cover less than 10k miles and tow a 2 tonne trailer?
2001 Y reg, 4.0 HSE Auto with LPG conversion done May 2008 or 114,000 miles. Looks in great condition to me, but would need to check the essentials as listed above in this thread. The price of £6290 seems a bit steep to me though???
I would only require this for 6 months before switching to a lease vehicle for tax purposes. Would this RR be suitable for a 6 month stint to cover less than 10k miles and tow a 2 tonne trailer?
Viper_Larry said:
I'm possibly looking at a Range Rover for a new business venture of a similar spec to the OP.
2001 Y reg, 4.0 HSE Auto with LPG conversion done May 2008 or 114,000 miles. Looks in great condition to me, but would need to check the essentials as listed above in this thread. The price of £6290 seems a bit steep to me though???
I would only require this for 6 months before switching to a lease vehicle for tax purposes. Would this RR be suitable for a 6 month stint to cover less than 10k miles and tow a 2 tonne trailer?
In the current market, I would suggest that is too steep for something with that kind of mileage. As has already been mentioned - do your checks thoroughly.2001 Y reg, 4.0 HSE Auto with LPG conversion done May 2008 or 114,000 miles. Looks in great condition to me, but would need to check the essentials as listed above in this thread. The price of £6290 seems a bit steep to me though???
I would only require this for 6 months before switching to a lease vehicle for tax purposes. Would this RR be suitable for a 6 month stint to cover less than 10k miles and tow a 2 tonne trailer?
These babies can look stunning yet still hide a multitude of sins. Decent service documentation is essential, plus a good spannerman who has done his homework to go and look at them with you will pay dividends in the long run.
eliot said:
Check coolant leaks in drivers footwell - I've looked at 6 P38's - 3 of them had coolant in the footwell.
If they're anything like the Disco Series II, there's also the possibility that the water in the footwell is simply the Aircon drains being blocked. Obviously, the colour/texture/smell of the water will give it away (Aircon evaporation being quite clean). Simple fix if so. Gassing Station | Land Rover | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


