ADVICE NEEDED DEFENDER

[rnd]

Hi all, I am looking for a good defender around 1996, most of the ones I have looked the chassis are rotten, but that is another problem and I will just keep looking. Some questions I am looking answers to as we are wanting to do some off roading in it.
I cannot get my head round the diff lock. When I put it in diff lock does it lock up all the wheels. Why I ask is I see you can get "air locks" for the diff. What is the difference?. Also is 150k plus miles still ok. Is there any web sites would be worth reading to learn tips about buying / running. Any advice would be appreciated. We do have a Vitara but the wife wants a go at this off roading but wants to go "landie" mode

Thanks

[mwy1964]

Diff lock locks the centre differential and not the axle diffs. Axle diff locks are for the 'extreme' user...

[Gentleman Geoff]

I'm probably the worst person to explain this, but here goes...

As I understand it, the diff lock only locks the centre differential. Therefore if one wheel is slipping, engaging diff lock would allow power to be transmitted to the other axle and maintain traction.

However, you could end up in the situation whereby the offside wheel on one axle and the nearside wheel on the other axle have both lost traction. In the scenario, the standard centre diff lock would do nothing for you because there is nothing to stop the wheels on the same axle from slipping. That is why some serious off-roaders fit additional diff locks (air lockers) to the front and rear axles.

Hopefully a proper Land Rover expert will soon be along to correct me!

[mwy1964]

Well put...^^^^^^^

Then try driving on the road with the centre diff lock engaged and enjoy the discovery of transmission wind-up as the differential forces applied when steering etc build up through the drivetrain... I have had it on old series (no centre diff and been driven on dry tarmac) land rovers where you jack the car up and the wheel spins as the force is released.

Should add, rust is the major killer on any Land Rover and in particular the chassis, as you have found. Check the bulkhead lower mountings and the bottom of the A posts. Then every outrigger (Bulkhead, fuel tank and rear body), rear crossmember, front dumb irons and top of the chassis rails. Do not be afraid to have a poke around with a big screwdriver and use it for tapping box sections to check for rust, filler, newspaper etc..

The top of the bulkhead around the corner of the vent to the top door hinge is another favourite (Although not quite as severe a problem).

If I remember rightly around 1996 was the 300tdi engine. This should be good for 200K, if it does go bang a Disco 300TDI MOT failure can be picked up for not much money (They rust better than Defenders) and made to fit with a few mods...

Edited by mwy1964 on Saturday 21st February 17:17

[rnd]

Thanks folks much appreciated for that. Is there any good web sites to give me info on the defenders. (think I understand about the diff)sounds like the standard diff will do for me.
Would i be right in saying after mucking about off road do you drive in reverse in a straight line to take the "wind up" uot of the transmission?

[GKP]

You only need to unwind the transmission if you've been using the diff lock on tarmac or other high grip surface. Grass, mud, sand etc offer enough slip to allow the centre diff to sort itself out.

[rnd]

Cheers for that. I know this may be the wrong place to ask this but do Landies give much bother, the reason I ask is it is for the wife as she has wanted one since she done an off road driving day at Dunkeld land rover centre but the more she reads the more frightened she gets about the corrosion and rust. Are they as bad as she is reading as she does not want to buy one and as she says "it is just eating it's self away" and does not want me under it ore than driving it and constantly throwing money at it.

[Ramthorne]

They are not especially prone to rust but some are nearly 30 years old, long after most of the alternatives have been recycled. The pre TDi ones are effectively classic cars with the associated problems.

[rnd]

Am looking at one on ph at the minute it is 1990 would that be a tdi. also do they come with disc brakes. sorry for the silly questions but i have to start somewere. is there any sites were i can get info on different models

[Marcellus]

there are a couple of land rover forums..... land rover monthly have a good one (but i can't remember its www address)

[Ramthorne]

1990 was when the 200 TDi was introduced, so maybe. You need a 94 on 300 TDi for discs all round, but there were frequently retro fitted. Personally I would spend that little bit more for a TDi.

[phib]

We have had four now 1993 200tdi, 2001 Td5, 2003 Td5 and 1996 300tdi

The td5's were hateful things and the best so far is the 300tdi soft top we have now ( we wont sell it and iff the chassis fails we will put a galvenised one in we have become quite attached to it !!!)

I am just helping another friend buy a 300tdi, re rust check the drivers and passeners footwells ( bulkhead) to make sure they are sound ours has been waxoiled from new and is great nick just make sure you check it well or get someone who knows what they are doing to check it.

Re relability the 300tdi starts first time even if its been left for weeks and generally hasnt been any trouble, we have have mud terrains but in reality I would recomend at's.

Side steps are great about £140 but great for my other half who is quite small

Any more questions fire away

Phib

[BLUETHUNDER]

TD5 is not a very good d.i.yers vehicle.Simplicity is the name,and stick with the 200-300tdi. Thats why the army opted for the 300tdi in the Wolf XD and not the TD5.

[rnd]

Guys, all info very helpful. The wife has now decided to get a 300tdi (it is for her).
Shall let you all know when we make our purchase. Thanks again for all the help.

[Zeek]

Some bits worth reading:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=12383&...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/buying-second-han...

Look at loads - I did, until I found my 96 300Tdi - great when you find the one you want!

[rnd]

Thanks Zeek really helpfull

[rnd]

Hi fellow "landie" owners bit of an update, have just put deposit on a 300 TDI and pick it up on Tuesday. It has a service history but has not had a cam belt change (78000 miles and 1994)I have spoken to a landrover specialist and he has told me if the belt breaks it does not do the usual valve bending damage etc. Is this true. Will probably do one eventualy but is he right in what he is saying.

Thanks all

[CamL]

rnd said:

Hi fellow "landie" owners bit of an update, have just put deposit on a 300 TDI and pick it up on Tuesday. It has a service history but has not had a cam belt change (78000 miles and 1994)I have spoken to a landrover specialist and he has told me if the belt breaks it does not do the usual valve bending damage etc. Is this true. Will probably do one eventualy but is he right in what he is saying.

Thanks all

Not entirely true, the belt on my old 300tdi let go a few years ago and although the damage was not catastrophic, the valves certainly bent and had to be replaced. I have a feeling that is the way they are designed, they valves take the damage and the rest of the engine survives.

I really enjoyed my 300 tdi though and belts going are fairly rare so don't let me put you off, just get the belts changed

[rnd]

Is that were you got your user name from LOL. Thanks for that

[neil-f]

Ray

www.landrovernet.com is a good forum.

I have a 1994 300Tdi Hardtop have spent about £5000 on running repairs in last 3 years & 7000miles and is now mechanically perfect!
Just bought a 2002My TD5 CSW and must say the TD5 drives much better than the 300Tdi and the engine is quieter.