Wanting a Defender- is this good value?
Discussion
Hi chaps,
I've got it into my head that I need a Defender. I live in the middle of nowhere, so it will mainly be used for off roading, green laning and getting me to work when it snows.
Someone has offered me one that looks fantastic, but I'm not sure on values and pricing. It is the following spec:
H reg,
81k miles
2 owners from new
mat blue (the classic old landy colour)
mods are-
High lift jack
waffle boards
off road tyres
2inch lift suspension
dislocation cones
snorkle
long extension travel arms
130 degree rear prop
front and rear diff guards
front steering plate
turbo boost gague
light rig on top
'smiley face off road bumper' (optional - £120 extra if I want it)
It's the 2 door with no rear windows (I prefer the look of here as opposed to the longer 4 door ones)
He's asking for £2700 which seems ok, but I thought I'd ask you guys before I commit. It's got a nice stereo and seats in the rear too.
So... Any good?
I've got it into my head that I need a Defender. I live in the middle of nowhere, so it will mainly be used for off roading, green laning and getting me to work when it snows.
Someone has offered me one that looks fantastic, but I'm not sure on values and pricing. It is the following spec:
H reg,
81k miles
2 owners from new
mat blue (the classic old landy colour)
mods are-
High lift jack
waffle boards
off road tyres
2inch lift suspension
dislocation cones
snorkle
long extension travel arms
130 degree rear prop
front and rear diff guards
front steering plate
turbo boost gague
light rig on top
'smiley face off road bumper' (optional - £120 extra if I want it)
It's the 2 door with no rear windows (I prefer the look of here as opposed to the longer 4 door ones)
He's asking for £2700 which seems ok, but I thought I'd ask you guys before I commit. It's got a nice stereo and seats in the rear too.
So... Any good?
Edited by ol on Saturday 27th February 13:31
I can't remember what he said about the engine to be honest... It's just been MOT'd and serviced too.
I'm not bothered about big power, just about being able to tool about in it for a bit then be able to recoup my money if I ever need to flog it.
He mentioned he's having the turbo boost turned up a little bit to increase bottom end torque
I'm not bothered about big power, just about being able to tool about in it for a bit then be able to recoup my money if I ever need to flog it.
He mentioned he's having the turbo boost turned up a little bit to increase bottom end torque
Chassis and Bulkhead are the most important things IMHO, as everything else is quite easy to get over.
If it's been welded it's going to need more soon, great to find one thats sound on the chassis, everything can be fixed so long as you have the time and money.
I have been watching like lots of you at the prices going up on very nice Defenders, getting to be few and far between.
Good luck with your hunting.
Andy.
If it's been welded it's going to need more soon, great to find one thats sound on the chassis, everything can be fixed so long as you have the time and money.
I have been watching like lots of you at the prices going up on very nice Defenders, getting to be few and far between.
Good luck with your hunting.
Andy.
In Land Rover Owner international (might be an idea for you to buy that, it has price guides for all land rovers in every issue) they say you can't buy a decent coil sprung (90/110/Defender as opposed to the classic 'series' type) land rover for anywhere near £2k (they could only find one for sale in the whole of the UK, they suggest £3k is the new starting point), so with a new MOT (which suggests the rust isn't too bad) and the add on bits that would seem good value, even if you did need to spend a bit on welding it.
ETA, rear crossmember, doors, base of the windscreen and bulkhead. Although some of the 'series3' ones I've been looking at have gone on top of the cross member under the front seats, I guess mud gets thrown up and sits there. With the ground clearance and box sections it's not difficult to check the whole chassis, I just have a good look and run my hand over the whole thing (probably a bit dangerous, you need to be careful) Check/ask about leaks to the fuel tank too, although it's not a massive job to put a new one in.
ETA, rear crossmember, doors, base of the windscreen and bulkhead. Although some of the 'series3' ones I've been looking at have gone on top of the cross member under the front seats, I guess mud gets thrown up and sits there. With the ground clearance and box sections it's not difficult to check the whole chassis, I just have a good look and run my hand over the whole thing (probably a bit dangerous, you need to be careful) Check/ask about leaks to the fuel tank too, although it's not a massive job to put a new one in.
Edited by varsas on Monday 1st March 08:40
I bought the magazine and that article is quite interesting. At least I know what to look at when I go and see it again.
Here's the beast in all its glory
http://www.4x4uk.org/cpg132/displayimage.php?pos=-...
Here's the beast in all its glory
http://www.4x4uk.org/cpg132/displayimage.php?pos=-...
Looks good, sounds good at the price.
On a 'H' it might well be an early 200Tdi - whilst it is much more grunty than a TD, you want the 200Tdi also for it's much better fuel economy, and because it's much more refined than the old TD (on which it is based), which is a turbo'd 2.5 N/A D, which itself is an evolution of the ancient 2.25 diesel.
On a 'H' it might well be an early 200Tdi - whilst it is much more grunty than a TD, you want the 200Tdi also for it's much better fuel economy, and because it's much more refined than the old TD (on which it is based), which is a turbo'd 2.5 N/A D, which itself is an evolution of the ancient 2.25 diesel.
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