Early Freelanders, buying advice

[jamiebae]

I know the first response is 'DON'T DO IT!' but lets imagine I have taken leave of my senses and have decided that I want a £1,500 Freelander as a winter hack. I know a Vitara, Rav or CRV would be more sensible and reliable but I just prefer the LR.

Ideally I want a 5 door, would prefer diesel but at this budget I think petrol would be a better bet. I know the normal K series stuff to watch for but what about the rest of the car? Any issues with rot, gearboxes etc etc?

Thanks!

[Stitch]

Biggest issue might be the electrics and ECU.

A business local to me breaks Freelanders for spares. When you look at the cars they are breaking it seems unbelieveable (they are by no means sheds) but the ECU goes and they are uneconomical to repair.

Also be very careful to make sure that chassis numbers and engine numbers etc all tie up. I have heard of a number of Disco's and Freelanders being confiscated by the Police on the basis that the car has a replacement engine and the owner can't prove that the engine was purchased legit.

[GKP]

Stitch said:

Biggest issue might be the electrics and ECU.

A business local to me breaks Freelanders for spares. When you look at the cars they are breaking it seems unbelieveable (they are by no means sheds) but the ECU goes and they are uneconomical to repair.

Also be very careful to make sure that chassis numbers and engine numbers etc all tie up. I have heard of a number of Disco's and Freelanders being confiscated by the Police on the basis that the car has a replacement engine and the owner can't prove that the engine was purchased legit.

Innocent until proven otherwise?

Anyway, a lot of early Freelanders around the £1500 budget will have had viscous coupling issues. This eventually siezes up and puts undue strain on the IRD (transfer box in normal speak) which grinds and crunches to a halt. Around £400 for the VC and £700 for the IRD plus fitting. Uneven or 'lumpy' tyre wear especially on the rear tyres can indicate VC failure alond with the drivetrain becoming extremely stiff at full lock at low speeds. If the car you're looking at has had "the propshaft removed for better mpg" run away as it's most likey covering for the fact that the VC has died.

Rear diffs whine and the mounting bushes clonk. Window mechs fail on doors and tailgate, sunroof mechs fail and leak, rear door seal fails and leaks. Cats rattle, aircon fan motors fail, the heater matrix leak, radio display fails.

Find one that is ok and you'll be fine, find one that needs attention and your wallet won't thank you.

[Stitch]

GKP said:

Innocent until proven otherwise?

you're not innocent though are you?

You've got a hookie engine in your car that you can't prove you got from a bona fide source.

Anyway, seems like we are singing from the same hymn sheet - OP unless you are a real risk taker, don't do it

[andyb66]

Stitch said:

Biggest issue might be the electrics and ECU.

A business local to me breaks Freelanders for spares. When you look at the cars they are breaking it seems unbelieveable (they are by no means sheds) but the ECU goes and they are uneconomical to repair.

What is it that 'goes' in the ECU? Any symptoms?

[300bhp/ton]

GKP said:

Stitch said:

Biggest issue might be the electrics and ECU.

A business local to me breaks Freelanders for spares. When you look at the cars they are breaking it seems unbelieveable (they are by no means sheds) but the ECU goes and they are uneconomical to repair.

Also be very careful to make sure that chassis numbers and engine numbers etc all tie up. I have heard of a number of Disco's and Freelanders being confiscated by the Police on the basis that the car has a replacement engine and the owner can't prove that the engine was purchased legit.

Innocent until proven otherwise?

Anyway, a lot of early Freelanders around the £1500 budget will have had viscous coupling issues. This eventually siezes up and puts undue strain on the IRD (transfer box in normal speak) which grinds and crunches to a halt. Around £400 for the VC and £700 for the IRD plus fitting. Uneven or 'lumpy' tyre wear especially on the rear tyres can indicate VC failure alond with the drivetrain becoming extremely stiff at full lock at low speeds. If the car you're looking at has had "the propshaft removed for better mpg" run away as it's most likey covering for the fact that the VC has died.

Rear diffs whine and the mounting bushes clonk. Window mechs fail on doors and tailgate, sunroof mechs fail and leak, rear door seal fails and leaks. Cats rattle, aircon fan motors fail, the heater matrix leak, radio display fails.

Find one that is ok and you'll be fine, find one that needs attention and your wallet won't thank you.

Agree with all of this. If you want it for it's AWD ability then watch out for those only running FWD as described above.

Also if you do actually want it to be any good off road, or even in the snow make sure it has TCS and HDC, they were options. But without them they a flippin useless on the rough or slippery.