Range Rover Classic buyers' guide?
Discussion
Based on my ownership experience with a 1990 V8 petrol Classic RR
Tailgate condition - prone to rust
Sills can have rock damage or certainly prone to rust
Headlining prone to sagging.
Various electrical items (windows, lights, wipers) should be subject to usual use checks as should the central locking.
Check diffs for oil leaks or signs of external damage from rocks or repaired from having the internals let go
Check plugs and leads are connected in the right order to the alternator (don't have the info to hand but probably somewhere on the net)
Check steering and in particular steering rods and connections at the front for wear and/or damage
Check that transfers into low range without too much of a clonk and runs OK once there
I am sure someone else will be along in a minute with some more pointers and am more technically correct explanation
Tailgate condition - prone to rust
Sills can have rock damage or certainly prone to rust
Headlining prone to sagging.
Various electrical items (windows, lights, wipers) should be subject to usual use checks as should the central locking.
Check diffs for oil leaks or signs of external damage from rocks or repaired from having the internals let go
Check plugs and leads are connected in the right order to the alternator (don't have the info to hand but probably somewhere on the net)
Check steering and in particular steering rods and connections at the front for wear and/or damage
Check that transfers into low range without too much of a clonk and runs OK once there
I am sure someone else will be along in a minute with some more pointers and am more technically correct explanation
peak1 said:
Based on my ownership experience with a 1990 V8 petrol Classic RR
Tailgate condition - prone to rust - VERY TRUE - DIFFICULT TO SOURCE REPLACEMENTS
Sills can have rock damage or certainly prone to rust
Headlining prone to sagging. - I "BORROWED" A REPAIR TECHNIQUE FOR THIS FROM SAABSCENE - USE PIGTAIL UPHOLSTERY PINS - SCREW THEM UP INTO THE FOAM UNDERNEATH
Various electrical items (windows, lights, wipers) should be subject to usual use checks as should the central locking. - CENTRAL LOCKING CIRCUIT MAY WORK, BUT NOT UNLOCK DUE TO WORN MECHANISM - NEEDS DOOR CARD OFF TO FIX
Check diffs for oil leaks or signs of external damage from rocks or repaired from having the internals let go - CONSTANT DRIPPING IS, HOWEVER, NORMAL!
Check plugs and leads are connected in the right order to the alternator (don't have the info to hand but probably somewhere on the net)
Check steering and in particular steering rods and connections at the front for wear and/or damage
Check that transfers into low range without too much of a clonk and runs OK once there
I am sure someone else will be along in a minute with some more pointers and am more technically correct explanation ALSO GENTLE BATTERY DRAIN IS NORMAL - CAN YOU KEEP IT NEAR A DRIP CHARGER? - IF SO, NO PROBLEM
I really like mine - it's my kids favourite and it starts first time, every time. It was awesome in the snow last year. I am, probably, going to get rid of mine and consolidate the Saab and RRC into a single 4WD, because I'm now converted!Tailgate condition - prone to rust - VERY TRUE - DIFFICULT TO SOURCE REPLACEMENTS
Sills can have rock damage or certainly prone to rust
Headlining prone to sagging. - I "BORROWED" A REPAIR TECHNIQUE FOR THIS FROM SAABSCENE - USE PIGTAIL UPHOLSTERY PINS - SCREW THEM UP INTO THE FOAM UNDERNEATH
Various electrical items (windows, lights, wipers) should be subject to usual use checks as should the central locking. - CENTRAL LOCKING CIRCUIT MAY WORK, BUT NOT UNLOCK DUE TO WORN MECHANISM - NEEDS DOOR CARD OFF TO FIX
Check diffs for oil leaks or signs of external damage from rocks or repaired from having the internals let go - CONSTANT DRIPPING IS, HOWEVER, NORMAL!
Check plugs and leads are connected in the right order to the alternator (don't have the info to hand but probably somewhere on the net)
Check steering and in particular steering rods and connections at the front for wear and/or damage
Check that transfers into low range without too much of a clonk and runs OK once there
I am sure someone else will be along in a minute with some more pointers and am more technically correct explanation ALSO GENTLE BATTERY DRAIN IS NORMAL - CAN YOU KEEP IT NEAR A DRIP CHARGER? - IF SO, NO PROBLEM
Mike_C said:
How good was it in the snow? If/when I get one, I really want a great 'snow' car!!
Absolutely awesome.My wife drove me into the local town in a snowstorm in January and it was gridlock from a couple of miles out so we crossed over the main road queues, shifted into low ratio and drove down the 1 in 4 hill avoiding the jam and leaving everyone behind. She got me to the train station on time...to find no trains!
loafer123 said:
Mike_C said:
How good was it in the snow? If/when I get one, I really want a great 'snow' car!!
Absolutely awesome.My wife drove me into the local town in a snowstorm in January and it was gridlock from a couple of miles out so we crossed over the main road queues, shifted into low ratio and drove down the 1 in 4 hill avoiding the jam and leaving everyone behind. She got me to the train station on time...to find no trains!
Mike_C said:
loafer123 said:
Mike_C said:
How good was it in the snow? If/when I get one, I really want a great 'snow' car!!
Absolutely awesome.My wife drove me into the local town in a snowstorm in January and it was gridlock from a couple of miles out so we crossed over the main road queues, shifted into low ratio and drove down the 1 in 4 hill avoiding the jam and leaving everyone behind. She got me to the train station on time...to find no trains!
What year/spec are you looking at?
Watch out for the Air Suspension on later models, BTW, although you can reverse back to springs if it causes trouble...
If you do get a Landie, make full use of the online diagnostic tool : http://www.tanygraig.force9.co.uk/John/vlr/form.ht...
As a newish rangie owner I thought I'd pitch in. I too bought it for the winter so I'm sort of hoping for a little of the white stuff.
Would agree with most of the above - rust is the main issue. Sills, front and boot floors, rear cross members, rear seat belt mounting points - inside the rear door shuts.
Diffs rust and leak - you can have it welded but its axle out or use some chemical metal for a medium term bodge.
The more expensive the model when new the more toys there are to stop working. I haven't done too badly, only the heated seats and cruise don't work. Even the photochromic/antiglare rear view mirror works I found out tonight.
Lots of useful web stuff http://www.rangerovers.net/rremedies.htm
Nice to drive in this sort of colder/wet weather just don't expect to get anywhere in a hurry especially in a diesel. LPG well worth looking at, ideally buy one already converted.
Would agree with most of the above - rust is the main issue. Sills, front and boot floors, rear cross members, rear seat belt mounting points - inside the rear door shuts.
Diffs rust and leak - you can have it welded but its axle out or use some chemical metal for a medium term bodge.
The more expensive the model when new the more toys there are to stop working. I haven't done too badly, only the heated seats and cruise don't work. Even the photochromic/antiglare rear view mirror works I found out tonight.
Lots of useful web stuff http://www.rangerovers.net/rremedies.htm
Nice to drive in this sort of colder/wet weather just don't expect to get anywhere in a hurry especially in a diesel. LPG well worth looking at, ideally buy one already converted.
Thanks DKL! Had found that link and had a read already, cheers.
I won't do enough miles to warrant an LPG kit, it will be a weekend and bad weather car - my economical car is a 3.0 BMW!! Hmm...
Anyway, will check for rust, rust and more rust. I am told all of the electrics work, which is astonishing!
One point - I heard someone mention removing the belt that drives the air con unit as it saps a bit of power and hurts the MPG - is this true? As it is doubtful I'll ever use the air con TBH!!
I won't do enough miles to warrant an LPG kit, it will be a weekend and bad weather car - my economical car is a 3.0 BMW!! Hmm...
Anyway, will check for rust, rust and more rust. I am told all of the electrics work, which is astonishing!
One point - I heard someone mention removing the belt that drives the air con unit as it saps a bit of power and hurts the MPG - is this true? As it is doubtful I'll ever use the air con TBH!!
I loved my 3.9 V8 Vogue SE Classic, possibly even more than the P38 that followed it.
I bought a complete dog, really cheap and then spent a lot of time and a bit of money making it really very good.
Problems.
Tin Worm - gets into the strangest of places, inner wings, base of A pillar, inside rear door shuts etc
Rear tailgate - will either have been replaced or will be buggered, there are 2 different types, you're looking at a model on the changeover, there's an easy way to tell them apart if needed.
electrical switches - often stick and suffer dodgy connections.
heated seats - the heat pads fail due to internal wires failing - a b
h of a job to replace
cruise control - will either be the spiral cassette in the steering wheel or (hopefully) perished vacuum hoses under the bonnet - an easy 50p fix
air suspension - don't touch it, it's stupidly pricy to fix and the ride's not much better.
a/c - a must have due to all the glass, budget for a new compressor if it doesn't work. It's usually not just a re-gas
gearbox - check it engages gear smoothly... mine didn't, i wasn't worried and then all of a sudden I had no drive.... that was pricy to fix.
Above all this though, they are fabulous cars and sooo capable off-road, even if just on M+S tyres (mine was on Scorpions too)
I bought a complete dog, really cheap and then spent a lot of time and a bit of money making it really very good.
Problems.
Tin Worm - gets into the strangest of places, inner wings, base of A pillar, inside rear door shuts etc
Rear tailgate - will either have been replaced or will be buggered, there are 2 different types, you're looking at a model on the changeover, there's an easy way to tell them apart if needed.
electrical switches - often stick and suffer dodgy connections.
heated seats - the heat pads fail due to internal wires failing - a b
h of a job to replacecruise control - will either be the spiral cassette in the steering wheel or (hopefully) perished vacuum hoses under the bonnet - an easy 50p fix
air suspension - don't touch it, it's stupidly pricy to fix and the ride's not much better.
a/c - a must have due to all the glass, budget for a new compressor if it doesn't work. It's usually not just a re-gas
gearbox - check it engages gear smoothly... mine didn't, i wasn't worried and then all of a sudden I had no drive.... that was pricy to fix.
Above all this though, they are fabulous cars and sooo capable off-road, even if just on M+S tyres (mine was on Scorpions too)
Mike_C said:
Thanks Peak! How was your ownership experience on the whole? Would you recommend them?
Would I recommend? Yes.But it does depend what you are after. They like a bit of TLC but have the potential to last and last with the correct maintenance.
They feel like a 4x4 to drive too, which I personally like. But they are still comfy enough to use daily or long distances.
Mike_C said:
Thanks DKL! Had found that link and had a read already, cheers.
I won't do enough miles to warrant an LPG kit, it will be a weekend and bad weather car - my economical car is a 3.0 BMW!! Hmm...
Anyway, will check for rust, rust and more rust. I am told all of the electrics work, which is astonishing!
One point - I heard someone mention removing the belt that drives the air con unit as it saps a bit of power and hurts the MPG - is this true? As it is doubtful I'll ever use the air con TBH!!
All air cons use power. It's an accessory on the engine.I won't do enough miles to warrant an LPG kit, it will be a weekend and bad weather car - my economical car is a 3.0 BMW!! Hmm...
Anyway, will check for rust, rust and more rust. I am told all of the electrics work, which is astonishing!
One point - I heard someone mention removing the belt that drives the air con unit as it saps a bit of power and hurts the MPG - is this true? As it is doubtful I'll ever use the air con TBH!!
Water pump, power steering pump, alternator. These too all sap power - but this is every IC engine in existence, not just Range Rovers.
Air con will use more power when activated as it increases load, but even having it switched off will have a potential cost to mpg/performance, although maybe not huge.
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