Given a 3D printer, and I don't know where to start
Discussion
I've been given two CTC 3D Printers that look exactly like the one in this link https://www.amazon.co.uk/CTC-Extruder-Upgraded-Pre...
The problem is, I don't really know what I'm doing.
I've plugged both in and there was an SD card in one of them. I've levelled the beds and I've done some tests printing something from the SD card on both printers. Both printers appear to be working fine producing similar (but not perfect) results.
The problem I'm having is these printers seem to only accept x3g files on SD card, but I have absolutely no idea what software I can use on my Mac to load downloaded models and then export them to x3g. I've tried the latest Makerbot print software, but it no longer exports to the file type I need.
For context, I'm a software developer so I'm fairly technical, but there seems to be a huge array of information online and none of it seems to help me.
Also, any comments on these printers? I can see they're about £270 new on ebay, and I believe they're meant to be old makerbot clones? While I'm sure they'll be fine to mess around with, I have no idea if they're any good or not.
I also believe the beds on these printers originally had a gold foil over the top of the aluminium bed, but it's no longer there, where can I get replacement adhesive foil?
Any assistance would be appreciated.
The problem is, I don't really know what I'm doing.
I've plugged both in and there was an SD card in one of them. I've levelled the beds and I've done some tests printing something from the SD card on both printers. Both printers appear to be working fine producing similar (but not perfect) results.
The problem I'm having is these printers seem to only accept x3g files on SD card, but I have absolutely no idea what software I can use on my Mac to load downloaded models and then export them to x3g. I've tried the latest Makerbot print software, but it no longer exports to the file type I need.
For context, I'm a software developer so I'm fairly technical, but there seems to be a huge array of information online and none of it seems to help me.
Also, any comments on these printers? I can see they're about £270 new on ebay, and I believe they're meant to be old makerbot clones? While I'm sure they'll be fine to mess around with, I have no idea if they're any good or not.
I also believe the beds on these printers originally had a gold foil over the top of the aluminium bed, but it's no longer there, where can I get replacement adhesive foil?
Any assistance would be appreciated.
Edited by TheBinarySheep on Monday 18th January 13:26
An expert will be along shortly, but I think X3G is the format the Cura slicer software uses (available for Mac, Windows, Linux).
https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
mmm-five said:
An expert will be along shortly, but I think X3G is the format the Cura slicer software uses (available for Mac, Windows, Linux).
https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
Thanks. I tried that software but it doesn't seem to support X3G exports.https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
I wonder if there's an option to upgrade the firmware on the printers so that they can support other formats?
EDIT:
Actually, it looks like if I export to .gcode the printer is picking up the file.
Edited by TheBinarySheep on Monday 18th January 14:40
Slicing software like Cura of PrusaSlicer(Slic3r?) convert .stl files from places like thingiverse, into .gcode.
The files on your SD card I would suggest can't be opened by Cura or Prisaslicer because they've already been sliced.
So you need to find the file you want to download, load in into slicing software, and slice then save.
If your printer doesn't work with .gcode then the above is obviously useless, but I would try Cura as suggested, to slice a downloaded .stl, and see if the printer will read it from the SD card.
Just to be clear, the finished sliced file is different to the file that you can save before slicing - the pre-sliced file is usually saved as a 'project'.
Yours seems to be a makerbot print file, made from an imported STL.
The files on your SD card I would suggest can't be opened by Cura or Prisaslicer because they've already been sliced.
So you need to find the file you want to download, load in into slicing software, and slice then save.
If your printer doesn't work with .gcode then the above is obviously useless, but I would try Cura as suggested, to slice a downloaded .stl, and see if the printer will read it from the SD card.
Just to be clear, the finished sliced file is different to the file that you can save before slicing - the pre-sliced file is usually saved as a 'project'.
Yours seems to be a makerbot print file, made from an imported STL.
Edited by ReverendCounter on Monday 18th January 15:28
ReverendCounter said:
Slicing software like Cura of PrusaSlicer(Slic3r?) convert .stl files from places like thingiverse, into .gcode.
The files on your SD card I would suggest can't be opened by Cura or Prisaslicer because they've already been sliced.
So you need to find the file you want to download, load in into slicing software, and slice then save.
If your printer doesn't work with .gcode then the above is obviously useless, but I would try Cura as suggested, to slice a downloaded .stl, and see if the printer will read it from the SD card.
Just to be clear, the finished sliced file is different to the file that you can save before slicing - the pre-sliced file is usually saved as a 'project'.
In Prusaslicer, this is saved as .3mf
Thanks.The files on your SD card I would suggest can't be opened by Cura or Prisaslicer because they've already been sliced.
So you need to find the file you want to download, load in into slicing software, and slice then save.
If your printer doesn't work with .gcode then the above is obviously useless, but I would try Cura as suggested, to slice a downloaded .stl, and see if the printer will read it from the SD card.
Just to be clear, the finished sliced file is different to the file that you can save before slicing - the pre-sliced file is usually saved as a 'project'.
In Prusaslicer, this is saved as .3mf
Edited by ReverendCounter on Monday 18th January 15:26
I understand that the project file and the sliced file is different. The issue I have now is that one printer reads .gcode and the other doesn't but both seem to be running the same software.
I fixed the dual extruder issue, there was a setting to enable it.
ReverendCounter said:
Are they both running the same firmware version?
As far as I can see yes. They both startup saying Pro Creator v1.0.I've ordered a printer cable as I want to update both firmwares anyway, so maybe once I've done that it'll fix the issue.
I've got one of them printing a rocket ship at the minute, but I'll double check it's firmware in the settings when it's finished.
TheBinarySheep said:
I also believe the beds on these printers originally had a gold foil over the top of the aluminium bed, but it's no longer there, where can I get replacement adhesive foil?
I'd guess they originally had kapton tape on them - easy enough to get on eBay, I'd say get the widest you can to save time fitting it. Many tutorials on how to get a bubble-free fit with soapy water. I use green painters tape nowadays.Edited: caveat that the soapy water approach to getting a bubble-free kapton base worked fine with the removable glass beds I used on my old RepRepPro machines, if your aluminium bed is fixed in the machine then it may not react so well...
Edited by eharding on Monday 18th January 19:08
eharding said:
I'd guess they originally had kapton tape on them - easy enough to get on eBay, I'd say get the widest you can to save time fitting it. Many tutorials on how to get a bubble-free fit with soapy water. I use green painters tape nowadays.
Edited: caveat that the soapy water approach to getting a bubble-free kapton base worked fine with the removable glass beds I used on my old RepRepPro machines, if your aluminium bed is fixed in the machine then it may not react so well...
Thanks.Edited: caveat that the soapy water approach to getting a bubble-free kapton base worked fine with the removable glass beds I used on my old RepRepPro machines, if your aluminium bed is fixed in the machine then it may not react so well...
Edited by eharding on Monday 18th January 19:08
Ive been using blue painters tape that I had in the garage today, and it's worked well.
I found an instructables on how to convert gcode to your format.
Here you go. https://www.instructables.com/Gcode-to-X3g/
Here you go. https://www.instructables.com/Gcode-to-X3g/
The plugin to create x3g files don't seem to work on the printer. When I select the file I just see the nozzle/bed temps and nothing happens.
I must be doing something wrong. I've select the printer to be a Makerbot copy and checks the dimensions are correct. Tried multiple files as well.
I must be doing something wrong. I've select the printer to be a Makerbot copy and checks the dimensions are correct. Tried multiple files as well.
Bullett said:
I found an instructables on how to convert gcode to your format.
Here you go. https://www.instructables.com/Gcode-to-X3g/
Thanks, the problem is replicator g doesn't seem to be available any more.Here you go. https://www.instructables.com/Gcode-to-X3g/
If I was you I'd get that second printer running as well as the other one and sell them both before they stop working. Get your hands on a Prusa Mini and yes, there may be issues but you'll be able to resolve them quickly due to the huge community, and it'll be a lot more reliable than anything else at that price point.
Apparently tinkercad can export to x3g ? https://tinkercad.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/community/p...
I wonder if you could find a firmware that accepts gcode that it would run.
I wonder if you could find a firmware that accepts gcode that it would run.
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