R230 SL Refurbishment
Discussion
Thought Id post up the works Im doing to my SL500 over the coming months to show what can be done on a limited budget and to show these are not as scary to play with as your local Molesting dealer would have you believe!
Firstly the car although fully serviced I felt needed a full re-fresh. Luckally I know someone in the trade so got the oil (gearbox and engine), filters (air, gearbox, oil), plugs, belts and smaller bits like the locking clip for the gearbox filler tube and sump plugs all trade. I also decided to replace the disks and pads as they were not that much anyway supprisingly.
Note that changing the disks is no different from any other car apart from the fact they are electronic and as such if you open a door whilst the pads are out the pistons will move in till they feel resistance. Romour has it they fire in and take fingers off etc so only merc can do this job... I was curious about this so put a spanner between the pistons and opened the door... yes they move in but gently and as soon as they feel resistance they stop so thats the myth disproven!
Next eh paint work was a little dull so I got my DA polisher out and spent many hours cleaning it up. The bonnets to bad and stone chipped so that along with the front bumper are being re-sprayed locally but I will be stripping them apart first to save costs.
Whilst I had the bonnet vents off I thought Id strip them down and give them a good clean, also decided to 2 pack spray the silver guides gloss black, not 100% yet but will decide once the bonnets been done and I can refit.
Original:
Cleaned and painted:
Also had a go at cleaning the S/Steel exhaust trims as they were filthy! Going to replace them eventually as have a 55 rear bumper to go on but thats later.
Before:
After:
Read up about the issues with roof leaks and I can see why they leak TBH, lots of channels and drain holes to get blocked up and whilst this car seems fine (no marks in the boot etc) I took the opertunity to clean all the rubbers and checked all the drain holes - this took a full day to do and I cant see your average Merc owner doing this which is why they leak.
Also deep cleaned the leather and basically everything else inside the car so its all fresh now.
I know I know, the woods a little outdated and Ive already experimented with 3M Dinox carbon covering on the drivers door and its actyually very nice so will be covering the rest of the wood over time - no pictures yet but IL post up later.
Firstly the car although fully serviced I felt needed a full re-fresh. Luckally I know someone in the trade so got the oil (gearbox and engine), filters (air, gearbox, oil), plugs, belts and smaller bits like the locking clip for the gearbox filler tube and sump plugs all trade. I also decided to replace the disks and pads as they were not that much anyway supprisingly.
Note that changing the disks is no different from any other car apart from the fact they are electronic and as such if you open a door whilst the pads are out the pistons will move in till they feel resistance. Romour has it they fire in and take fingers off etc so only merc can do this job... I was curious about this so put a spanner between the pistons and opened the door... yes they move in but gently and as soon as they feel resistance they stop so thats the myth disproven!
Next eh paint work was a little dull so I got my DA polisher out and spent many hours cleaning it up. The bonnets to bad and stone chipped so that along with the front bumper are being re-sprayed locally but I will be stripping them apart first to save costs.
Whilst I had the bonnet vents off I thought Id strip them down and give them a good clean, also decided to 2 pack spray the silver guides gloss black, not 100% yet but will decide once the bonnets been done and I can refit.
Original:
Cleaned and painted:
Also had a go at cleaning the S/Steel exhaust trims as they were filthy! Going to replace them eventually as have a 55 rear bumper to go on but thats later.
Before:
After:
Read up about the issues with roof leaks and I can see why they leak TBH, lots of channels and drain holes to get blocked up and whilst this car seems fine (no marks in the boot etc) I took the opertunity to clean all the rubbers and checked all the drain holes - this took a full day to do and I cant see your average Merc owner doing this which is why they leak.
Also deep cleaned the leather and basically everything else inside the car so its all fresh now.
I know I know, the woods a little outdated and Ive already experimented with 3M Dinox carbon covering on the drivers door and its actyually very nice so will be covering the rest of the wood over time - no pictures yet but IL post up later.
misery said:
I disgree i think the wood looks classic, i'd leave it if it was me.
I agree but its just personnal preference. TBH the 3M film can be removed if the next owner does not like it so no harm done.Just sorted out a nice original set of Brabus original alloys as well in 9 and 10.5 width so that will fill the arches once I get some lowering links.
Very interested in this thread. Nice that enthusiasts are getting hold of these cars now!
Did you just use autoglym metal polish on the exhaust tips? Maybe easier to do if I can remove them from my SL55. Also an issue that I have experienced with the brakes is that they are prone to warping, it'll be nice to see how you get on with your new set.
Personally I'm not to keen on the wood, but my SL has the interior trim of a kitchen worktop for some strange reason :/
Did you just use autoglym metal polish on the exhaust tips? Maybe easier to do if I can remove them from my SL55. Also an issue that I have experienced with the brakes is that they are prone to warping, it'll be nice to see how you get on with your new set.
Personally I'm not to keen on the wood, but my SL has the interior trim of a kitchen worktop for some strange reason :/
Yep, autoglym and lots of elbow grease.
Taking my new Brabus wheels down to Eastlea Sat to see what they are going to charge to refurb them. Going to have the surface painted rather than re-skimmed as it seems no one will garentee the finish with skimming and laquer only. Rear tyres are HUGE! but luckally have loads of tread left. Front tyres will be replaced as ones worn out and the others low.
Rear spoilers fitted, whilst not 100% it does look the part on a black car. Ordered lowering links so they will go on in the next few weeks before the wheels get done just to see what hight looks good.
Got a replacement g box plug as well now so will drop the oil again and change the filter this time. Been told to be carefull when torquing up the bolts as the setting sare lower than you would think.
Removed rear plastic covers from either side of the rear window... note you need to tap them down first to release the top catch then upwards to actually get them off... don't ask how I know!
Also spoke to Arnott in the states and it looks like the turnaround time for a replacement shock is actually very quick so the only concern I have going forward is sort of negated now. Good as looking to trade up to a 55 next year.
Anyone know a cheap place to get some 3M Dinoc film apart from Flea Bay?
Taking my new Brabus wheels down to Eastlea Sat to see what they are going to charge to refurb them. Going to have the surface painted rather than re-skimmed as it seems no one will garentee the finish with skimming and laquer only. Rear tyres are HUGE! but luckally have loads of tread left. Front tyres will be replaced as ones worn out and the others low.
Rear spoilers fitted, whilst not 100% it does look the part on a black car. Ordered lowering links so they will go on in the next few weeks before the wheels get done just to see what hight looks good.
Got a replacement g box plug as well now so will drop the oil again and change the filter this time. Been told to be carefull when torquing up the bolts as the setting sare lower than you would think.
Removed rear plastic covers from either side of the rear window... note you need to tap them down first to release the top catch then upwards to actually get them off... don't ask how I know!
Also spoke to Arnott in the states and it looks like the turnaround time for a replacement shock is actually very quick so the only concern I have going forward is sort of negated now. Good as looking to trade up to a 55 next year.
Anyone know a cheap place to get some 3M Dinoc film apart from Flea Bay?
S800VXR said:
Next eh paint work was a little dull so I got my DA polisher out and spent many hours cleaning it up.
Great post! I think this is what I need to do on my car, it has quite a few 'swirl' marks and waxing/polishing has not got rid of these, can you hire out these polishers? Is it quite straightforward just to wash the car and then go over all the paintwork with the polisher and are there any precautions you need to take?
Buy one as you will get addicted to it as its sooooo much easier than hand polishing and also gives a far better finish so much more rewarding. Jump on detailing world to find out more but set asside a few hours!! basically wash, clay, wash then polish then use a high quality wax, I use DoDo Juice purple haze as I always seems to buy black cars! Also with a DA you wont damage the paint irrespective of what you do to it!
I've also repaired the mesh on my replacement 55 rear bumper now so that turned out a bargain!
I've also repaired the mesh on my replacement 55 rear bumper now so that turned out a bargain!
Edited by S800VXR on Monday 22 August 22:57
Rear Spoiler...as I said, not 100% but will see how it goes..
Repaired mesh, it was flat on one end, little touch up with matt black paint this weekend and it will be as new.
A couple of pictures of the drivers door which Ive used the Dinoc film on..
And this is a close up of the top locating point for the covers either side of the rear glass, you can see how it releases from this hopefully.
Repaired mesh, it was flat on one end, little touch up with matt black paint this weekend and it will be as new.
A couple of pictures of the drivers door which Ive used the Dinoc film on..
And this is a close up of the top locating point for the covers either side of the rear glass, you can see how it releases from this hopefully.
S800VXR, thanks to your thread I was able to locate two of the drain holes for the boot. These were situated at the corners of the boot where it meets the rear screen. They were covered in so much compacted dirt I couldn't even see them!
If there are more can you tell me where they may be?
Here is a little anti MB rant, several people have had all the boot seal rubbers replaced either by warranty or by at their own expense to cure a boot leaking problem when this is not likely the solution. Just clearing some drain holes may do the job and avoid the dreaded central locking woes.
I have recently experienced a knocking from my front suspension when on full lock or braking, my friendly MB dealer Vikings of Canterbury (no sarcasm they are excellent) informed me that a ball joint had 'a lot of play' and could potentially cause the issue. I was then quoted ~£1300 for the fix, after some further research it appears the ball joint and the strut are a single piece hence the price. I am now taking the strut to a specialist who can repair the ball joint for £65 + vat while you wait, Vikings will fit the reconditioned unit for me as well.
Thoughts on all of the above welcome....
If there are more can you tell me where they may be?
Here is a little anti MB rant, several people have had all the boot seal rubbers replaced either by warranty or by at their own expense to cure a boot leaking problem when this is not likely the solution. Just clearing some drain holes may do the job and avoid the dreaded central locking woes.
I have recently experienced a knocking from my front suspension when on full lock or braking, my friendly MB dealer Vikings of Canterbury (no sarcasm they are excellent) informed me that a ball joint had 'a lot of play' and could potentially cause the issue. I was then quoted ~£1300 for the fix, after some further research it appears the ball joint and the strut are a single piece hence the price. I am now taking the strut to a specialist who can repair the ball joint for £65 + vat while you wait, Vikings will fit the reconditioned unit for me as well.
Thoughts on all of the above welcome....
Gouki said:
S800VXR, thanks to your thread I was able to locate two of the drain holes for the boot. These were situated at the corners of the boot where it meets the rear screen. They were covered in so much compacted dirt I couldn't even see them!
If there are more can you tell me where they may be?
Here is a little anti MB rant, several people have had all the boot seal rubbers replaced either by warranty or by at their own expense to cure a boot leaking problem when this is not likely the solution. Just clearing some drain holes may do the job and avoid the dreaded central locking woes.
I have recently experienced a knocking from my front suspension when on full lock or braking, my friendly MB dealer Vikings of Canterbury (no sarcasm they are excellent) informed me that a ball joint had 'a lot of play' and could potentially cause the issue. I was then quoted ~£1300 for the fix, after some further research it appears the ball joint and the strut are a single piece hence the price. I am now taking the strut to a specialist who can repair the ball joint for £65 + vat while you wait, Vikings will fit the reconditioned unit for me as well.
Thoughts on all of the above welcome....
Drain holes are in the far corners of the boot seal when standing at the back and also about 6" in there are some drain tubes which drop down from under the rear window seal. You need to look inside theboot to see these as they are just 1/2" rubber tubes. I think there are some chanels in the front as well but basically just leave the roof half open and clean every surface!If there are more can you tell me where they may be?
Here is a little anti MB rant, several people have had all the boot seal rubbers replaced either by warranty or by at their own expense to cure a boot leaking problem when this is not likely the solution. Just clearing some drain holes may do the job and avoid the dreaded central locking woes.
I have recently experienced a knocking from my front suspension when on full lock or braking, my friendly MB dealer Vikings of Canterbury (no sarcasm they are excellent) informed me that a ball joint had 'a lot of play' and could potentially cause the issue. I was then quoted ~£1300 for the fix, after some further research it appears the ball joint and the strut are a single piece hence the price. I am now taking the strut to a specialist who can repair the ball joint for £65 + vat while you wait, Vikings will fit the reconditioned unit for me as well.
Thoughts on all of the above welcome....
As for the ball joint, Ive not had that yet but I think yr indy cost sounds ok. Remember if the ball joint on thebottom of the ABC strut goes you can get life time warrenteed items from Arnott in the USA for about $650 exchange.
Gouki said:
S800VXR, thanks to your thread I was able to locate two of the drain holes for the boot. These were situated at the corners of the boot where it meets the rear screen. They were covered in so much compacted dirt I couldn't even see them!
If there are more can you tell me where they may be?
Here is a little anti MB rant, several people have had all the boot seal rubbers replaced either by warranty or by at their own expense to cure a boot leaking problem when this is not likely the solution. Just clearing some drain holes may do the job and avoid the dreaded central locking woes.
I have recently experienced a knocking from my front suspension when on full lock or braking, my friendly MB dealer Vikings of Canterbury (no sarcasm they are excellent) informed me that a ball joint had 'a lot of play' and could potentially cause the issue. I was then quoted ~£1300 for the fix, after some further research it appears the ball joint and the strut are a single piece hence the price. I am now taking the strut to a specialist who can repair the ball joint for £65 + vat while you wait, Vikings will fit the reconditioned unit for me as well.
Thoughts on all of the above welcome....
Hi Gouki,[If you have an active suspension car]. The base of the front struts are located into the lower arm [with the ball joint at one end] and held in place with 2 grub screws, these often size so main dealers want you to buy a new strut and arm. When this happened to my S600L; Merc took out the the strut with arm, I took it to my local engineering shop who removed the 2 grub screws so separating the arm from the strut, Merc refitted with new arm [and ball joint],and 2 new grub screws less than £200 instead of £1350!If there are more can you tell me where they may be?
Here is a little anti MB rant, several people have had all the boot seal rubbers replaced either by warranty or by at their own expense to cure a boot leaking problem when this is not likely the solution. Just clearing some drain holes may do the job and avoid the dreaded central locking woes.
I have recently experienced a knocking from my front suspension when on full lock or braking, my friendly MB dealer Vikings of Canterbury (no sarcasm they are excellent) informed me that a ball joint had 'a lot of play' and could potentially cause the issue. I was then quoted ~£1300 for the fix, after some further research it appears the ball joint and the strut are a single piece hence the price. I am now taking the strut to a specialist who can repair the ball joint for £65 + vat while you wait, Vikings will fit the reconditioned unit for me as well.
Thoughts on all of the above welcome....
Mark.
Heres the links I made today, well the rears anyhow as Id already fitted the fronts before I thought to photo them!
Needless to say they are fully adjustable and a dame site cheaper than anything else out there - about £21 in bits.
Crap phot but heres the car after, can probably go lower TBH but Im waiting till I get the Brabus 20" wheels on as running 305's on the rear so don't want rubbing.
If anyone want the links and parts I used drop me a PM, it really is easy. I also waxoiled the links to make sure they don't rust at all, bit pointless as its a garage queen really.
Needless to say they are fully adjustable and a dame site cheaper than anything else out there - about £21 in bits.
Crap phot but heres the car after, can probably go lower TBH but Im waiting till I get the Brabus 20" wheels on as running 305's on the rear so don't want rubbing.
If anyone want the links and parts I used drop me a PM, it really is easy. I also waxoiled the links to make sure they don't rust at all, bit pointless as its a garage queen really.
Personally i would wrap those threaded joints with DENSO tape, i used to own a quattro turbo, had it for ten years, on the rear suspension it has very similar adjusters to yours. I fitted new adjusters when i bought the car and wrapped them up completely in DENSO. A few years later i did a full refurb on all the suspension and when i cut off the tape the adjusters were immaculate underneath and still shiny. Well worth the few quid investment in a roll of greasy tape as my adjusted were nearly one hundred pounds each.
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