w124 purchased

[brimble]

hi all,

firstly, allow me to introduce myself. my name is bryn, i live near silverstone and i have recently purchased a 1995 E220 estate. i have just registered on p'heads and this is my first post, but i am a long time lurker

anyway back to the car. i am really plesaed with it on the whole, however, there are a few minor issues that have become apparent that i'd like to sort out, and i hoped somebody on here may be able to advise me.

1) driver side window- winds down fine but intermittenly fails to rise. rapid presses/releasing of the 'up' button gets it to rise again. (it then rises at normal speed with no dodgy noises etc)

2) sunroof opens fine but upon closing, it closes so far then it needs to be closed via the manual method in the nearside rear wheel well.

3) there is a key slot in front of the centre consol under the centre arm rest. what is it for as it isn't mentioned anywhere in the manual. is it to de-activate the passenger airbag?

4) the key ignition key is rather stiff and 'notchy' and a new one came with the car and having read horror stories on the net about if they fail completely and how easy it is to replace them. but i've spent a couple of hours trying to replace it i've all but given up. i don't suppose there are any recomended specialists near daventry, towcester, brackley area? or even better, a pistonheader that has done this job themselves who could maybe help me for a quantity of beer??

that's it for now folks and thanks for reading.

bryn.

[bolide]

brimble said:

1) driver side window- winds down fine but intermittenly fails to rise. rapid presses/releasing of the 'up' button gets it to rise again. (it then rises at normal speed with no dodgy noises etc)

Sounds like a guide has come adrift and the glass is binding as it runs up the channel. Remove the door card, work out how the mechanism works and adjust the guides so that the glass runs up parallel to the front guide

brimble said:

2) sunroof opens fine but upon closing, it closes so far then it needs to be closed via the manual method in the nearside rear wheel well.

This is normally caused by the sunroof bowden cable pushing out of the guide channel because the sunroof operation is too stiff. Clean & lubricate the entire mechanism and make sure the lifting hinges each side are not broken. This can be a bit of a nightmare

brimble said:

3) there is a key slot in front of the centre consol under the centre arm rest. what is it for as it isn't mentioned anywhere in the manual. is it to de-activate the passenger airbag?

That'll be the slot for an aftermarket alarm / immobiliser keyfob or maybe for a key to switch off the ultrasonic detectors inside the car. Either way it's aftermarket

brimble said:

4) the key ignition key is rather stiff and 'notchy' and a new one came with the car and having read horror stories on the net about if they fail completely and how easy it is to replace them. but i've spent a couple of hours trying to replace it i've all but given up. i don't suppose there are any recomended specialists near daventry, towcester, brackley area? or even better, a pistonheader that has done this job themselves who could maybe help me for a quantity of beer??

Plenty of instructions on the web for this. You have to get the barrel to position 1 (IIRC) and the release the clip via a wire key. Ether the barrel is in the wrong position or the key is not releasing the clip. I've never done one but am told that welding wire is ideal to make the key

Nick Froome

Edited by bolide on Wednesday 28th December 12:20

[Zeptepi]

I have owned a 1994 E220 for the last 11 years and it has given me great service. Biggest problem is the electrics under the bonnet. First to go was the oil pressure that reads max even without the engine running. Second was the speedocruise wiring from the air sensor. Third was the airconditioning. I went on the Benzworld website and they told me that Mercs from 92 to 98 used Soya as the insulation in the engine bay wiring (instead of PVC) that totally collapses after a few years. The only answer is a new engine bay wiring harness that costs more than the car is worth. I believe that the Yanks in their wisdom decided that PVC is harmfull and had to be replaced with some other insulation. How Mercedes were never required to recall all of these cars to correct the fault amazes me.

I have had to run separate wires under the bonnet to get the above faults working again.

[brimble]

brimble said:

hi all,

firstly, allow me to introduce myself. my name is bryn, i live near silverstone and i have recently purchased a 1995 E220 estate. i have just registered on p'heads and this is my first post, but i am a long time lurker

anyway back to the car. i am really plesaed with it on the whole, however, there are a few minor issues that have become apparent that i'd like to sort out, and i hoped somebody on here may be able to advise me.

1) driver side window- winds down fine but intermittenly fails to rise. rapid presses/releasing of the 'up' button gets it to rise again. (it then rises at normal speed with no dodgy noises etc)

2) sunroof opens fine but upon closing, it closes so far then it needs to be closed via the manual method in the nearside rear wheel well.

3) there is a key slot in front of the centre consol under the centre arm rest. what is it for as it isn't mentioned anywhere in the manual. is it to de-activate the passenger airbag?

4) the key ignition key is rather stiff and 'notchy' and a new one came with the car and having read horror stories on the net about if they fail completely and how easy it is to replace them. but i've spent a couple of hours trying to replace it i've all but given up. i don't suppose there are any recomended specialists near daventry, towcester, brackley area? or even better, a pistonheader that has done this job themselves who could maybe help me for a quantity of beer??

that's it for now folks and thanks for reading.

bryn.

thanks nick,

i'll try that for the sunroof and the window. the funny lock in front of the compartment box though, i'm sure is factory. in the owners manual on page 71 it shows 'how to use the compartment box' and shows a photo of this area. on this photo, it clearly shows the aformentioned lock, but no instructions as to what it does...does it ring any bells to you? i'd seen most of the 'how to's' on the web to change the ignition lock but it doesn't seem as easy to me as it makes out on the instructions. i'll have another go anyway.

can anybody recommend any specialists in the northampton/milton keynes/brackley area to look after my car?

kind regards,
bryn

[brimble]

Zeptepi said:

I have owned a 1994 E220 for the last 11 years and it has given me great service. Biggest problem is the electrics under the bonnet. First to go was the oil pressure that reads max even without the engine running. Second was the speedocruise wiring from the air sensor. Third was the airconditioning. I went on the Benzworld website and they told me that Mercs from 92 to 98 used Soya as the insulation in the engine bay wiring (instead of PVC) that totally collapses after a few years. The only answer is a new engine bay wiring harness that costs more than the car is worth. I believe that the Yanks in their wisdom decided that PVC is harmfull and had to be replaced with some other insulation. How Mercedes were never required to recall all of these cars to correct the fault amazes me.

I have had to run separate wires under the bonnet to get the above faults working again.

ooh crikey!! i had heard of the w124 bio-degradeable wiring looms, though i didn't realise they were literally bio-degradeable.... i'll be aware of that thankyou. is it just the under bonnet loom that is susceptible or the whole loom? out of interest, approximately how much is the cost of a new engine loom. DIY fitable??

thanks again.

bryn

[bolide]

I don't know any independents in your area - have a look on the Mercedes forums for suggestions

http://mbclub.co.uk
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk

The loom problems seems to affect all late W124s at some stage. The part for a late E280 is around £650

If the lock is factory you probably have a centre box with a missing lid. The lock is to secure the sliding lid of the centre box



Nick Froome

[chazola]

brimble said:

1) driver side window- winds down fine but intermittenly fails to rise. rapid presses/releasing of the 'up' button gets it to rise again. (it then rises at normal speed with no dodgy noises etc)

Get ready for that window to stop working all the way up soon. Mine did exactly the same thing and now I have to manually pull/push it up/down the last inch or so. Some of the teeth break off the regulator inside the door and the only way to fix is a new one which is a pain to replace, I still haven't done mine yet.

[brimble]

thanks for the links nick. a lot of information on there to read through for a lot of what seem to be common issues (2 of which i have). WRT the wiring loom's is it just the insulation that erodes? if so, and call me daft if i'm wrong, but could affected looms be able to be stripped back of their insulation and simply re-insulate the wires? surely it couldn't be too hard..

thanks again,
bryn

[Pontoneer]

brimble said:

hi all,

firstly, allow me to introduce myself. my name is bryn, i live near silverstone and i have recently purchased a 1995 E220 estate. i have just registered on p'heads and this is my first post, but i am a long time lurker

anyway back to the car. i am really plesaed with it on the whole, however, there are a few minor issues that have become apparent that i'd like to sort out, and i hoped somebody on here may be able to advise me.

1) driver side window- winds down fine but intermittenly fails to rise. rapid presses/releasing of the 'up' button gets it to rise again. (it then rises at normal speed with no dodgy noises etc)

2) sunroof opens fine but upon closing, it closes so far then it needs to be closed via the manual method in the nearside rear wheel well.

3) there is a key slot in front of the centre consol under the centre arm rest. what is it for as it isn't mentioned anywhere in the manual. is it to de-activate the passenger airbag?

4) the key ignition key is rather stiff and 'notchy' and a new one came with the car and having read horror stories on the net about if they fail completely and how easy it is to replace them. but i've spent a couple of hours trying to replace it i've all but given up. i don't suppose there are any recomended specialists near daventry, towcester, brackley area? or even better, a pistonheader that has done this job themselves who could maybe help me for a quantity of beer??

that's it for now folks and thanks for reading.

bryn.

Hi , sounds like a nice car you have there .

Re your problems

1) The window

W124 window regulators are prone to wearing teeth , usually at the top end of travel , but it is possible yours has gone at the bottom . I have replaced a few of these on different W124's I have owned over the years - the part was about £70 new from the dealer , but I usually buy them from breakers yards for a lot less .

The other possibility is the switch - the problem may be electrical rather than mechanical - try swapping the drivers and passenger side switches over ( they are the same ) - again I have known W124/W126/W201 switches to develop bad contacts over time and this may be the case with yours .

2) The sunroof will have 'lost' the setting for the closed position . There is a micro switch in the motor unit which needs to be adjusted . While I can do it , it is not easy to explain . There is a small plastic wheel just beside the emergency crank - you normally pull this out to wind manually - pull it out and close the roof manually , then pull it out one further click and rotate the wheel one turn and push it back in : this should have changed the closed position - repeat by trial and error until you find the correct closure position .

3) the keyhole in the front of the cubby hole locks the roll top lid . Since later cars had an airbag where the lockable glove box used to go , a lockable cubby was provided instead .

4) Sounds like your ignition lock barrel is on the way out - this is potentially your most serious problem . GET DOWN TO THE DEALER WITHOUT DELAY : you need to order a new barrel against the chassis no . You will need reg document plus two forms of ID . If you let this go it will jam and you won't be able to drive the car . At the moment the barrel can be removed easily ; once it jams it is major surgery to remove - the dealer can lend you an emergency barrel until your new one comes - the barrel used to be about £40 , but there have been price increases in the last couple of years .

All the other things can be pottered around with , but don't delay on no 4 .

Good luck with your new car

[Pontoneer]

Having just read further through the thread .

While Nick's idea about the window guide may be correct , I'd try swapping the switches first as this is easier . If no difference , then open up the door and any mechanical problem should be evident .

Re the roof , if it was stiff and the cable was coming out of the guide ( I have seen this happen ona W126 ) the roof still wouldn't close using the manual crank - that is just another method of driving the same cable . The loss of closure position really is very common and easily fixed as I described .

Maybe you have lost the roll top to your cubby hole ?

Ignition barrel , as I said .

[Pontoneer]

chazola said:

Get ready for that window to stop working all the way up soon. Mine did exactly the same thing and now I have to manually pull/push it up/down the last inch or so. Some of the teeth break off the regulator inside the door and the only way to fix is a new one which is a pain to replace, I still haven't done mine yet.

That is very common : I have done three of these .

It is not a difficult job and can be done in about an hour .

[stain]

I have a spare centre cubby with roller lid in black as per Nicks picture if anyone wants it.

[philcray]

4) Sounds like your ignition lock barrel is on the way out - this is potentially your most serious problem . GET DOWN TO THE DEALER WITHOUT DELAY : you need to order a new barrel against the chassis no . You will need reg document plus two forms of ID . If you let this go it will jam and you won't be able to drive the car . At the moment the barrel can be removed easily ; once it jams it is major surgery to remove - the dealer can lend you an emergency barrel until your new one comes - the barrel used to be about £40 , but there have been price increases in the last couple of years .

All the other things can be pottered around with , but don't delay on no 4 .

Good luck with your new car
[/quote]

========================================================

I had a 1992 E class coupe (CE230) so probably a similar ignition barrel - my ignition key got stuck in the barrel and I could not get it out, I lived with it like this for about 3 months, leaving the car with the key in the ignition, I thought of it as a bit like an early keyless go system...

Luckily the car had an aftermarket immobiliser fitted so you needed this fob as well as the key to start the car, also with the key being to the left of the steering wheel it was not that obvious from outside the car.

Sourcing a replacement barrel was straightforward and meant you could still use the old keys, probably worth doing sooner rather than later to avoid a similar problem...