Classic SL Pagoda advice
Discussion
Hi guys, im looking to buy my first classic, and have always loved the pagoda,
i could do with some advice an what to look for ie:
what years are better than others?
do rhd hold better value than lhd or are they all lhd?
Just a general advice would be great as the prices vary so greatly from 20k to 65kk
many thanks
i could do with some advice an what to look for ie:
what years are better than others?
do rhd hold better value than lhd or are they all lhd?
Just a general advice would be great as the prices vary so greatly from 20k to 65kk
many thanks
Decide whether you want manual or auto.
Buy on condition.
That means: rust, trim, engine running smoothly (the fuel injection is hard to set up), heater working correctly, soft top sans holes.
You sound clueless (not meant as an insult), so you may find it worth your while to retain the services of an expert.
Buy on condition.
That means: rust, trim, engine running smoothly (the fuel injection is hard to set up), heater working correctly, soft top sans holes.
You sound clueless (not meant as an insult), so you may find it worth your while to retain the services of an expert.
jdw1234 said:
Are these complete money pits?
My dream car and pencilled in for when the mortgage is paid off!!
Any old Merc can be a money pit if not bought as R129 said, on condition & history. I've partly-restored a couple of cars from this era, they are strong, but complex cars for their time and definitely not immune to rust. If you see rust in the boot, sills, footwells, bulkheads then walk away. My dream car and pencilled in for when the mortgage is paid off!!
Engine-wise, the 230 is the least desirable but sill ok, not a lot in it between the 250 & 280. I've not driven the manual but the auto transmissions should be pretty smooth, if clunky changing it means the engine linkages are not set up properly and/or there's vacuum issues.
Better to stump up for a higher price, top condition car from a specialist or enthusiast with everything sorted than try and bring back a cheap one.
Edited by chazola on Tuesday 4th September 10:31
chazola said:
jdw1234 said:
Are these complete money pits?
My dream car and pencilled in for when the mortgage is paid off!!
Any old Merc can be a money pit if not bought as R129 said, on condition & history. I've partly-restored a couple of cars from this era, they are strong, but complex cars for their time and definitely not immune to rust. If you see rust in the boot, sills, footwells, bulkheads then walk away. My dream car and pencilled in for when the mortgage is paid off!!
Engine-wise, the 230 is the least desirable but sill ok, not a lot in it between the 250 & 280. I've not driven the manual but the auto transmissions should be pretty smooth, if clunky changing it means the engine linkages are not set up properly and/or there's vacuum issues.
Better to stump up for a higher price, top condition car from a specialist or enthusiast with everything sorted than try and bring back a cheap one.
Edited by chazola on Tuesday 4th September 10:31
One thing that confuses me is the 230 vs 250 vs 280.
As I understand it, the 250 was only available in the USA - I dont know why.
230 vs 280 - some people say the 230 is lighter, handles better and has better suspension. I have heard the 230 engine referred to as the "sweetest".
However, some say the 280 is better (I assume because of more power).
Do you pay a premium for RHD? I would be fine (actually prefer) LHD.
230, 250 then 280 was simply a progression. All were available in the UK. The 250 was manufactured in the smallest numbers. I believe the 230 and 250 are "sweeter" than the 280 for some reason to do with crankshaft bearing numbers but frankly they're all much the same. There is no premium for RHD.
Get this through your head: at this age, it is a nonsense to speak of any particular model being "better" than any other. They are all old cars: the best one is the one that is in the best condition. Don't look for a 280 or a 250 or a 230: look for the best car you can find within your budget. A good 230 will be faster than a poor 280 because that 280 will not be going anywhere and besides, none is a fast car as you understand that term.
Generally a more expensive car at a specialist will be "better" than a cheaper car, but this rule is not hard and fast and you must beware the polished turd. If you do not know what you are doing, pay a specialist £500 to £1,000 to appraise the market and recommend some cars for you to choose from. The person you should speak to is Michael Lavers at the Silver Arrows garage.
Get this through your head: at this age, it is a nonsense to speak of any particular model being "better" than any other. They are all old cars: the best one is the one that is in the best condition. Don't look for a 280 or a 250 or a 230: look for the best car you can find within your budget. A good 230 will be faster than a poor 280 because that 280 will not be going anywhere and besides, none is a fast car as you understand that term.
Generally a more expensive car at a specialist will be "better" than a cheaper car, but this rule is not hard and fast and you must beware the polished turd. If you do not know what you are doing, pay a specialist £500 to £1,000 to appraise the market and recommend some cars for you to choose from. The person you should speak to is Michael Lavers at the Silver Arrows garage.
At this age, anything can be or go wrong with these cars. My own experience was one of rust and automatic transmission failure, not to mention every last bit of rubber throughout the suspension having perished. Make no mistake, EVERYTHING on this car is expensive, both parts and labour, to put right. That said, when they're good, they're really good - assuming that what you're seeking is a relaxing, top down cruising experience. If you go in looking for a sports car, you will be left wanting.
Seriously, though, thorough rust inpection: visual, magnet, and even groping the car in places you can't see is critical. The worst rust on mine was at the top of the inner front wing liners under the lip where they meet the outer wings (where the bonnet rests). Impossible to see on the surface, but pretty serious nonetheless. I only discovered it one day when I had the bonnet open and I curled my fingers up under there. Not a happy moment.
On mine, transmission failure happened suddenly - the symptom being complete loss of reverse. Repair on that (replacement with a rebuilt unit) was about US$4000 when all was said and done. I always wondered if I should have just waited for the right manual car.
Merc experts on these shores I have spoken to advise avoiding the 250s if you have any visions of investment potential. From a driving standpoint you won't find great differences among the cars - although the 230s are somewhat sportier in feel than the later cars - assuming all of them to be in stock condition. The 250 was somewhat the red-headed stepchild, and its relative rarity does not add to its value, interestingly.
Good luck!!
-Reed
'86 190E 2.3-16
'93 300CE Cabrio
www.totallythatstupid.com
Seriously, though, thorough rust inpection: visual, magnet, and even groping the car in places you can't see is critical. The worst rust on mine was at the top of the inner front wing liners under the lip where they meet the outer wings (where the bonnet rests). Impossible to see on the surface, but pretty serious nonetheless. I only discovered it one day when I had the bonnet open and I curled my fingers up under there. Not a happy moment.
On mine, transmission failure happened suddenly - the symptom being complete loss of reverse. Repair on that (replacement with a rebuilt unit) was about US$4000 when all was said and done. I always wondered if I should have just waited for the right manual car.
Merc experts on these shores I have spoken to advise avoiding the 250s if you have any visions of investment potential. From a driving standpoint you won't find great differences among the cars - although the 230s are somewhat sportier in feel than the later cars - assuming all of them to be in stock condition. The 250 was somewhat the red-headed stepchild, and its relative rarity does not add to its value, interestingly.
Good luck!!
-Reed
'86 190E 2.3-16
'93 300CE Cabrio
www.totallythatstupid.com
Gassing Station | Mercedes | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff