W124 300E-24 service fluids?

[BlueMR2]

Hi everyone, I'm getting together the bits to do a big service on the 300e-24 i have had for a couple of months now.

I have 2x5L 10w40 semi synth oil and a canister filter.

6 bosch spark plugs.

I think i have the correct coolant, i need to find it in the garage to check it.
I have a new thermostat.
I want to get a metal thermostat cover to replace the plastic one it has at the moment.
A couple of other small cooling system components.
The cooling sensor on the left of the thermostat casing has lost its Mercedes connector and has a cheap universal connector without the wires soldered in place.

What does each temp sensor send its signal to?

Is this fluid suitable for the auto gearbox? and a new filter and gasket to go with it.
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/...


Anything else I should change, diff fluid perhaps?

Any tools I should really have? Or any other parts I could do with replacing at the same time?

Thanks for any assistance you can offer.

[BlueMR2]

I need to check the viscous fan as well as I think its under performing.

[mickyveloce]

Hello Mark ,
Can't suggest much more than you've mentioned , but as I know you're based near Harrogate , I can recommend hydes of boroughbridge . He looks after my 300-24 sl and c36 and worked on them when new and knows the old mercs and their needs very well .

[chazola]

That ATF should be fine, any decent Dexron II or III is ok in these older boxes.
Are you doing the change yourself? If yes and you've not done it before, don't torque the pan bolts too tight as that can warp the gasket and make it leak. Advisable to drain the torque converter too, you'll need hex keys for both.

Any blue coolant should be fine mixed 50/50

The rear diff oil is worth doing if you don't know when it was last checked/changed, 14mm hex I think.

[SuperHangOn]

chazola said:

The rear diff oil is worth doing if you don't know when it was last checked/changed, 14mm hex I think.

These can be tight so remove the fill plug first just in case! Shouldn't be a problem with a breaker bar.

Would whip off the placcy sill covers & clean up underneath. Easy job.

Edited by SuperHangOn on Thursday 22 November 13:21

[BlueMR2]

chazola said:

That ATF should be fine, any decent Dexron II or III is ok in these older boxes.
Are you doing the change yourself? If yes and you've not done it before, don't torque the pan bolts too tight as that can warp the gasket and make it leak. Advisable to drain the torque converter too, you'll need hex keys for both.

Any blue coolant should be fine mixed 50/50

The rear diff oil is worth doing if you don't know when it was last checked/changed, 14mm hex I think.

Thanks for that, i think i will do most of the stuff myself, however due to the low ground clearance and angle of my drive, getting under the car is not really suitable so i will probably take it to a garage with a ramp to get the transmission oil changed and ideally the diff oil at the same time whilst its up there.

I have some dark blue coolant as i purchased 4 bottles a year or so ago, 2 went in the 928 so i have 2 left. So i mainly just need the metal thermostat cover now before the coolant is changed.

Need to find out what diff oil it needs and how much of it.

[BlueMR2]

mickyveloce said:

Hello Mark ,
Can't suggest much more than you've mentioned , but as I know you're based near Harrogate , I can recommend hydes of boroughbridge . He looks after my 300-24 sl and c36 and worked on them when new and knows the old mercs and their needs very well .

Thanks for that, I will most likely have the atf and diff fluid replaced by a garage and do the rest myself.

The box of stuff in the dining room is getting bigger, lol.

[BlueMR2]

SuperHangOn said:

chazola said:

The rear diff oil is worth doing if you don't know when it was last checked/changed, 14mm hex I think.

These can be tight so remove the fill plug first just in case! Shouldn't be a problem with a breaker bar.

Would whip off the placcy sill covers & clean up underneath. Easy job.

Edited by SuperHangOn on Thursday 22 November 13:21

Do they just have a screw at the front and back of each door holding them on?

After cleaning, should you put anything on to keep the rust away?

Edited by BlueMR2 on Thursday 22 November 13:42

[mickyveloce]

I gave up on any fluid changes myself after a sort of Exxon valdise type incident.as for keeping things to do with the car in the living room , that just doesn't happen in my house..

[chazola]

BlueMR2 said:

SuperHangOn said:

chazola said:

The rear diff oil is worth doing if you don't know when it was last checked/changed, 14mm hex I think.

These can be tight so remove the fill plug first just in case! Shouldn't be a problem with a breaker bar.

Would whip off the placcy sill covers & clean up underneath. Easy job.

Edited by SuperHangOn on Thursday 22 November 13:21

Do they just have a screw at the front and back of each door holding them on?

After cleaning, should you put anything on to keep the rust away?

not quite, this is a Merc not a Ford there's a load of screws running underneath, pretty obvious when you look under there which ones you need to undo. Most 124's rust around the jack points, the actual tubes are usually structurally solid, just around them flakes badly. You can weld in new metal or just clean up and paint with hammerite or something, then your favourite wax...

[BlueMR2]

chazola said:

BlueMR2 said:

SuperHangOn said:

chazola said:

The rear diff oil is worth doing if you don't know when it was last checked/changed, 14mm hex I think.

These can be tight so remove the fill plug first just in case! Shouldn't be a problem with a breaker bar.

Would whip off the placcy sill covers & clean up underneath. Easy job.

Edited by SuperHangOn on Thursday 22 November 13:21

Do they just have a screw at the front and back of each door holding them on?

After cleaning, should you put anything on to keep the rust away?

not quite, this is a Merc not a Ford there's a load of screws running underneath, pretty obvious when you look under there which ones you need to undo. Most 124's rust around the jack points, the actual tubes are usually structurally solid, just around them flakes badly. You can weld in new metal or just clean up and paint with hammerite or something, then your favourite wax...

Cheers, i realised you meant the sills when i re read your post, I thought you had said the plastic panels on the doors the first time and had noticed a screw head inside the door.