SL R230 - Boot will not open / close electronically
Discussion
Hi forum,
My boot was working perfectly until I decided to replace the third brake light on my car (the one in the boot). I must have dislodged a wire somewhere as I noticed a wire dangling near the third brake light which was disconnected (it was a black wire with a brown connector). Now the boot will not open and close, although if I stick in the key I can open the boot. I can not easily see where this wire plugs into, if anyone has any experience of this issue and can give me some instructions of how to get access to put this wire back it would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Michael
My boot was working perfectly until I decided to replace the third brake light on my car (the one in the boot). I must have dislodged a wire somewhere as I noticed a wire dangling near the third brake light which was disconnected (it was a black wire with a brown connector). Now the boot will not open and close, although if I stick in the key I can open the boot. I can not easily see where this wire plugs into, if anyone has any experience of this issue and can give me some instructions of how to get access to put this wire back it would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Michael
I managed to put the wire back in however the boot will not open with keyfob - the only way I can open the boot is by using the key.
Could it be a fuse? I tried to access the fuses behind the driver seat but I was unable to open the the box (pressing the silver button is not releasing the lid for some reason). I tried to put the roof up and down and it is working fine and the central locking is also working fine.
Any ideas because I do not know what else it could be!
Could it be a fuse? I tried to access the fuses behind the driver seat but I was unable to open the the box (pressing the silver button is not releasing the lid for some reason). I tried to put the roof up and down and it is working fine and the central locking is also working fine.
Any ideas because I do not know what else it could be!
All the locks and the cubby holes behind the seats are controlled by the PSE pump in the boot, it uses air to activate the locks/latches.
If the doors are working fine then your PSE pump is working (good news). If the PSE pump detects a leak in an air line then it has the ability to shut off just that line until you reset the pump by pulling the fuse.
The fuse is located in the box behind the drivers seat (the one you can't open!). You can get into the fuse box by pulling the FRONT panel off this box, you pull the top of the panel towards the front of the car (either with strong fingers or a plastic lever (metal screwdriver will mark the leather)) to unclip the top and the bottom of the panel just lifts upwards. Once the panel is off you will be able to get to a row of fuses, although awkward to get to.
I forget which fuse it is, a quick google for R230 PSE pump fuse will help. I think it is roughly the 7th fuse from the left as you look at it, a yellow 20A I think. If you get as far as finding this fuse, just pull it out for 30 seconds and put it back in and it should reset the pump and you should hear it start pumping again.
If the doors are working fine then your PSE pump is working (good news). If the PSE pump detects a leak in an air line then it has the ability to shut off just that line until you reset the pump by pulling the fuse.
The fuse is located in the box behind the drivers seat (the one you can't open!). You can get into the fuse box by pulling the FRONT panel off this box, you pull the top of the panel towards the front of the car (either with strong fingers or a plastic lever (metal screwdriver will mark the leather)) to unclip the top and the bottom of the panel just lifts upwards. Once the panel is off you will be able to get to a row of fuses, although awkward to get to.
I forget which fuse it is, a quick google for R230 PSE pump fuse will help. I think it is roughly the 7th fuse from the left as you look at it, a yellow 20A I think. If you get as far as finding this fuse, just pull it out for 30 seconds and put it back in and it should reset the pump and you should hear it start pumping again.
Hi said:
All the locks and the cubby holes behind the seats are controlled by the PSE pump in the boot, it uses air to activate the locks/latches.
If the doors are working fine then your PSE pump is working (good news). If the PSE pump detects a leak in an air line then it has the ability to shut off just that line until you reset the pump by pulling the fuse.
The fuse is located in the box behind the drivers seat (the one you can't open!). You can get into the fuse box by pulling the FRONT panel off this box, you pull the top of the panel towards the front of the car (either with strong fingers or a plastic lever (metal screwdriver will mark the leather)) to unclip the top and the bottom of the panel just lifts upwards. Once the panel is off you will be able to get to a row of fuses, although awkward to get to.
I forget which fuse it is, a quick google for R230 PSE pump fuse will help. I think it is roughly the 7th fuse from the left as you look at it, a yellow 20A I think. If you get as far as finding this fuse, just pull it out for 30 seconds and put it back in and it should reset the pump and you should hear it start pumping again.
Thank you so much for your reply. I took my car into a specialist at the weekend to have the fuel filter replaced, and afterwards I mentioned that my boot wasn't working. He put in the key and turned the lock to a particular position and then the boot started opening. However, the soft close feature stopped working (was working fine before) and so he plugged the car into the star system and it was reporting a fault with the pneumatic system. He told me there was a leak somewhere which he would need to find.If the doors are working fine then your PSE pump is working (good news). If the PSE pump detects a leak in an air line then it has the ability to shut off just that line until you reset the pump by pulling the fuse.
The fuse is located in the box behind the drivers seat (the one you can't open!). You can get into the fuse box by pulling the FRONT panel off this box, you pull the top of the panel towards the front of the car (either with strong fingers or a plastic lever (metal screwdriver will mark the leather)) to unclip the top and the bottom of the panel just lifts upwards. Once the panel is off you will be able to get to a row of fuses, although awkward to get to.
I forget which fuse it is, a quick google for R230 PSE pump fuse will help. I think it is roughly the 7th fuse from the left as you look at it, a yellow 20A I think. If you get as far as finding this fuse, just pull it out for 30 seconds and put it back in and it should reset the pump and you should hear it start pumping again.
Anyway, when I got home I saw your message, so I just pulled the fuse and when I put it back in I could hear it reset. Now soft close is working like a dream, I tried it 10 times and everything seems to work perfectly.
So thanks very much!! Do you reckon I may have a leak somewhere or do you think it just needed to be reset? If it stops again should I try the same procedure or could that damage the pse pump?
On another note, the bleed nipples on all of my brake callipers have corroded and one bolt sheered off. I was told by my mechanic to leave the old brake fluid in the car and when it is really dirty in a few years time we would have to worry about drilling out the bolts, which he said may break the calliper. I checked and the callipers are silly money, I am really hoping something can be done to save them. Braking is working fine at the moment (even though I am still getting used to the weird breaking system and I have had the car a year now!).
Michael
You will not damage the pse pump by repeatedly pulling the fuse to reset it, but if it needs resetting regularly then there is a problem somewhere, most likely a leak. If it works fine for the time being then I doubt you have a leak, it's probably just the car having a funny 5 minutes!
As for the brake caliper, as the mechanic says, leave it as it is for now, however I would either be keeping an eye out for a cheap used caliper on ebay (which you can then rebuild without losing the use of the car) or if you can't (or don't want to) do that then I would look up a local engineering type place that would drill out the snapped off bleed nipple for you. Don't let the mechanic do it if possible, an engineering workshop is much more likely to take care and do it without damaging the caliper.
As for the brake caliper, as the mechanic says, leave it as it is for now, however I would either be keeping an eye out for a cheap used caliper on ebay (which you can then rebuild without losing the use of the car) or if you can't (or don't want to) do that then I would look up a local engineering type place that would drill out the snapped off bleed nipple for you. Don't let the mechanic do it if possible, an engineering workshop is much more likely to take care and do it without damaging the caliper.
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