156 2.4JTD Buying Hints
Discussion
Hi
The chance to acquire one of the above has come up as a friend is wanting shot his Y-reg Rosso saloon that has been sat on his drive unused for a few months and so I'm thinking I can snap up a bit of a barging. Have been itching to get hold of an Alfa for years after having a 'Sud Veloce as a teenager and enjoying the odd spin and hillclimb in step-dad's GT Junior.
Anything specific to look out for apart from the service history, belts, bushes and general condition (battery, electrics, discs 'n' pads etc) after being stood for a while?
And what are they like to drive. I'm coming to it from a 99T Volvo V40 2.0T.
Thanks in advance
The chance to acquire one of the above has come up as a friend is wanting shot his Y-reg Rosso saloon that has been sat on his drive unused for a few months and so I'm thinking I can snap up a bit of a barging. Have been itching to get hold of an Alfa for years after having a 'Sud Veloce as a teenager and enjoying the odd spin and hillclimb in step-dad's GT Junior.
Anything specific to look out for apart from the service history, belts, bushes and general condition (battery, electrics, discs 'n' pads etc) after being stood for a while?
And what are they like to drive. I'm coming to it from a 99T Volvo V40 2.0T.
Thanks in advance
Good to see someone else with a 105 in the best colour.
Check everything if it's been stood - bushes, brake pipes, chassis (can corrode sadly), handbrake releases and so on.
This is useful:
http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/alfa_156_buyers.shtm...
The engine is a peach, but it's heavy which can cause some understeer, especially if it's not the Veloce model, so don't view it as an out and out sportscar but the steering's nice and quick and they go well. They sound surprisingly good for a diesel too.
Check everything if it's been stood - bushes, brake pipes, chassis (can corrode sadly), handbrake releases and so on.
This is useful:
http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/alfa_156_buyers.shtm...
The engine is a peach, but it's heavy which can cause some understeer, especially if it's not the Veloce model, so don't view it as an out and out sportscar but the steering's nice and quick and they go well. They sound surprisingly good for a diesel too.
Good link, Rick, thankyou.
Yes, Step-dad is almost evangelical about not having a red Alfa. Although it was originally that nice dark blue when we family first got it in 1991, became red for a period after its restoration and then Ochre about nine years ago after another rebuild into the road going, but stripped out race spec it has now.
Yes, Step-dad is almost evangelical about not having a red Alfa. Although it was originally that nice dark blue when we family first got it in 1991, became red for a period after its restoration and then Ochre about nine years ago after another rebuild into the road going, but stripped out race spec it has now.
2volvos said:
Hi
The chance to acquire one of the above has come up as a friend is wanting shot his Y-reg Rosso saloon that has been sat on his drive unused for a few months and so I'm thinking I can snap up a bit of a barging. Have been itching to get hold of an Alfa for years after having a 'Sud Veloce as a teenager and enjoying the odd spin and hillclimb in step-dad's GT Junior.
Anything specific to look out for apart from the service history, belts, bushes and general condition (battery, electrics, discs 'n' pads etc) after being stood for a while?
And what are they like to drive. I'm coming to it from a 99T Volvo V40 2.0T.
Thanks in advance
Lovely pic from Shelsley Walsh there.The chance to acquire one of the above has come up as a friend is wanting shot his Y-reg Rosso saloon that has been sat on his drive unused for a few months and so I'm thinking I can snap up a bit of a barging. Have been itching to get hold of an Alfa for years after having a 'Sud Veloce as a teenager and enjoying the odd spin and hillclimb in step-dad's GT Junior.
Anything specific to look out for apart from the service history, belts, bushes and general condition (battery, electrics, discs 'n' pads etc) after being stood for a while?
And what are they like to drive. I'm coming to it from a 99T Volvo V40 2.0T.
Thanks in advance
Thanks!
We think it may be the quickest Guilia that's been up SW, running in the 38s.
There was a space frame sillhouette in the 80s driven by Marcel Juno but I'm not sure that counts (and actually think it wasn't as quick).
There are some very nice Guilias that turn up every now and then in the Classics class but tend not to be as race developed as step dad's. However if they are Red, the commentators seem to fawn over them much more than the faster Ochre one.
Rosso snobs!
We think it may be the quickest Guilia that's been up SW, running in the 38s.
There was a space frame sillhouette in the 80s driven by Marcel Juno but I'm not sure that counts (and actually think it wasn't as quick).
There are some very nice Guilias that turn up every now and then in the Classics class but tend not to be as race developed as step dad's. However if they are Red, the commentators seem to fawn over them much more than the faster Ochre one.
Rosso snobs!
Thanks!
We think it may be the quickest Guilia that's been up SW, running in the 38s.
There was a space frame sillhouette in the 80s driven by Marcel Juno but I'm not sure that counts (and actually think it wasn't as quick).
There are some very nice Guilias that turn up every now and then in the Classics class but tend not to be as race developed as step dad's. However if they are Red, the commentators seem to fawn over them much more than the faster Ochre one.
Rosso snobs!
We think it may be the quickest Guilia that's been up SW, running in the 38s.
There was a space frame sillhouette in the 80s driven by Marcel Juno but I'm not sure that counts (and actually think it wasn't as quick).
There are some very nice Guilias that turn up every now and then in the Classics class but tend not to be as race developed as step dad's. However if they are Red, the commentators seem to fawn over them much more than the faster Ochre one.
Rosso snobs!
I did 110k miles in a 2001 140bhp 10v.
Things that went wrong:
bushes - all of them. Seemed to be an every 60k miles job.
MAF - you get a flat spot around 3000 rpm if it's failed. Just unplug it for a temporary fix.
Brake pipe to the driver's side front unclips and the protective covering wears off, so it goes rusty. One day it will burst and scare the beejesus out of you. If it's already happened that pipe will be a copper one
'Faulty bulb' light that won't go out. The circuit board to control the lights is on the back of the rev counter. If it fails (reasonably common I think) you will always have the orange 'bulb burst' warning on, and the nearside rear light will always be dimly on. And if you don't start it every few days the battery will go flat
Bonnet catch gets stiff if not greased properly - mine snapped. Local mobile mechanic charged me £20. Alfa dealer wanted £200.
Tracking - check inner edges of front tyres. Easy fix, but you might be too late to rescue the tyres on it.
Gearbox - mine lost the 'spring' to make it return to the 3rd/4th plane - drove fine, it was like that from about 80k onwards.
Clutch used to be an expensive job - probably still is (dual mass flywheel and hard to get to anything as 2.4 barely fits) Mine was on the original on 136k though, so they can last.
Leak into passenger footwell. It comes through the pollen filter. Take the filter out, take the plastic 'hopper' out, put some silocone sealant on it and then put it back. Mine dripped through behind the stereo.
It's a heavy engine. I lent mine to a friend who didn't realise what all that weight, low suspension (on a Veloce) and speed bumps mean. It meant a cracked sump.
I loved mine - it's nice and relaxing to drive because it will pick up in any gear, and even though it's only 5sp it's 30mph/1000rpm so it's quiet if you want it to be.
It's heavy at the front but it seemed ok to me - maybe I just got very used to it!
EDIT - also had a failed TDC sensor. £20 part, but it was a slight problem to diagnose (not an Alfa specialist though) but for a while it made the car hard to start - it generally started as normal, or wouldn't start at all without a bump-start.
Also the screws for the air-filter cover rust in place. If your 'mechanic' is as cack-handed as one I had once, he will crack it and not tell you, so will drive around for thousands of miles with a crack in the air filer housing. Then have to pay someone else to replace it :/
Timing belt is 72k later revised to 60k. I had mine done at 71k (livin' on the edge) and it cost a fortune at the time as they were new-ish to the non-franchised garages. Might be less now?
Things that went wrong:
bushes - all of them. Seemed to be an every 60k miles job.
MAF - you get a flat spot around 3000 rpm if it's failed. Just unplug it for a temporary fix.
Brake pipe to the driver's side front unclips and the protective covering wears off, so it goes rusty. One day it will burst and scare the beejesus out of you. If it's already happened that pipe will be a copper one
'Faulty bulb' light that won't go out. The circuit board to control the lights is on the back of the rev counter. If it fails (reasonably common I think) you will always have the orange 'bulb burst' warning on, and the nearside rear light will always be dimly on. And if you don't start it every few days the battery will go flat
Bonnet catch gets stiff if not greased properly - mine snapped. Local mobile mechanic charged me £20. Alfa dealer wanted £200.
Tracking - check inner edges of front tyres. Easy fix, but you might be too late to rescue the tyres on it.
Gearbox - mine lost the 'spring' to make it return to the 3rd/4th plane - drove fine, it was like that from about 80k onwards.
Clutch used to be an expensive job - probably still is (dual mass flywheel and hard to get to anything as 2.4 barely fits) Mine was on the original on 136k though, so they can last.
Leak into passenger footwell. It comes through the pollen filter. Take the filter out, take the plastic 'hopper' out, put some silocone sealant on it and then put it back. Mine dripped through behind the stereo.
It's a heavy engine. I lent mine to a friend who didn't realise what all that weight, low suspension (on a Veloce) and speed bumps mean. It meant a cracked sump.
I loved mine - it's nice and relaxing to drive because it will pick up in any gear, and even though it's only 5sp it's 30mph/1000rpm so it's quiet if you want it to be.
It's heavy at the front but it seemed ok to me - maybe I just got very used to it!
EDIT - also had a failed TDC sensor. £20 part, but it was a slight problem to diagnose (not an Alfa specialist though) but for a while it made the car hard to start - it generally started as normal, or wouldn't start at all without a bump-start.
Also the screws for the air-filter cover rust in place. If your 'mechanic' is as cack-handed as one I had once, he will crack it and not tell you, so will drive around for thousands of miles with a crack in the air filer housing. Then have to pay someone else to replace it :/
Timing belt is 72k later revised to 60k. I had mine done at 71k (livin' on the edge) and it cost a fortune at the time as they were new-ish to the non-franchised garages. Might be less now?
Edited by blugnu on Thursday 24th January 23:25
Excellent write up blugnu
I have only had my 2.4 for a few weeks and have had the misfortune of being duped by a rather untrustworthy dealer as such I had to fork out for a cambelt and waterpump.
Cost for Gates Cambelt and Waterpump kit is £150, plus you will need some decent coolant, a further £25. A garage will charge £150+VAT to fit so all in you are looking at £325-£350 which isnt that bad. By contrast my 156 v6 cost £750 5 years ago!
Other things to note are:
Brakes - They are not that good, upgraded pads will help but really they aren't up to the weight of the car.
Gearbox - The 10v gearbox is much smoother and stronger than the 20v so thats a bonus!
Costs - It wont be a cheap car to keep on the road as bushes and suspension arms will need frequent replacement. On bad roads top and bottom arms on the front will only last 25,000 miles!
Despite the negatives its a lovely car to drive, not particularly agile but smooth and quick and really relaxing.
I have only had my 2.4 for a few weeks and have had the misfortune of being duped by a rather untrustworthy dealer as such I had to fork out for a cambelt and waterpump.
Cost for Gates Cambelt and Waterpump kit is £150, plus you will need some decent coolant, a further £25. A garage will charge £150+VAT to fit so all in you are looking at £325-£350 which isnt that bad. By contrast my 156 v6 cost £750 5 years ago!
Other things to note are:
Brakes - They are not that good, upgraded pads will help but really they aren't up to the weight of the car.
Gearbox - The 10v gearbox is much smoother and stronger than the 20v so thats a bonus!
Costs - It wont be a cheap car to keep on the road as bushes and suspension arms will need frequent replacement. On bad roads top and bottom arms on the front will only last 25,000 miles!
Despite the negatives its a lovely car to drive, not particularly agile but smooth and quick and really relaxing.
One thing that really stiffens up the front end and for some reason reduces bottoming out is a strut brace.
Zender ones were available from Alfa as dealer approved accessories and they are a reasonably cheap but worthwhile mod.
Agreed about the brakes. DS2000 pads (or whatever they are now) are worth it next time you need pads.
Zender ones were available from Alfa as dealer approved accessories and they are a reasonably cheap but worthwhile mod.
Agreed about the brakes. DS2000 pads (or whatever they are now) are worth it next time you need pads.
TorqueRacing said:
Excellent write up blugnu
I have only had my 2.4 for a few weeks and have had the misfortune of being duped by a rather untrustworthy dealer as such I had to fork out for a cambelt and waterpump.
Cost for Gates Cambelt and Waterpump kit is £150, plus you will need some decent coolant, a further £25. A garage will charge £150+VAT to fit so all in you are looking at £325-£350 which isnt that bad. By contrast my 156 v6 cost £750 5 years ago!
I think I paid £800 for the 71k service (including replacing the cracked air filter housing) and the cambelt - it was 2004 I think. £350 not so bad at all - and as you say, definitely do the water pump and tensioners at the same time.I have only had my 2.4 for a few weeks and have had the misfortune of being duped by a rather untrustworthy dealer as such I had to fork out for a cambelt and waterpump.
Cost for Gates Cambelt and Waterpump kit is £150, plus you will need some decent coolant, a further £25. A garage will charge £150+VAT to fit so all in you are looking at £325-£350 which isnt that bad. By contrast my 156 v6 cost £750 5 years ago!
Many thanks for taking the time to reply with very useful info. I hope to hear soon about what this chap wants to do with the 156 and if I do replace the V40 with it will no doubt be hanging around these part of PH far more regularly.
Like I said, I am an Alfisti at heart (I've even convinced myself that my Mini is an honourable Italian car - something to do with the Innocenti connection, size, endorsement by Enzo, Alpine rallying etc) so it's only a matter of time before actual Alfa ownership becomes a reality.
And, of course, will have to change my username...
Cheers
Like I said, I am an Alfisti at heart (I've even convinced myself that my Mini is an honourable Italian car - something to do with the Innocenti connection, size, endorsement by Enzo, Alpine rallying etc) so it's only a matter of time before actual Alfa ownership becomes a reality.
And, of course, will have to change my username...
Cheers
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