alfa 156 - any tips?
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sawman

Original Poster:

5,082 posts

251 months

Tuesday 28th May 2013
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I am looking to upgrade my shed (merc 190e) and wondered if a 156 might be worth a punt - I have seen a tidy looking (in the ad!) 2001 1.8 twinspark, with full leather and teledials, just over 100k miles - should I be wary? or more to the point what should I be wary of?

anonymous-user

75 months

Tuesday 28th May 2013
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Check the condition of the underside.

crostonian

2,427 posts

193 months

Tuesday 28th May 2013
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Yes, check for a rusty floorpan and evidence of a recent belt change or get it done yourself - due every 36k, otherwise your shed could be worthless pretty quickly. Any other faults just live with them, the suspension will probably creak and knock a bit but not worth throwing money at until it sounds like the wheels about to fall off!

sawman

Original Poster:

5,082 posts

251 months

Tuesday 28th May 2013
quotequote all
cheers chaps, you lot are more talkative than the subaru crowd (legacy also in my sights, but the money is a bit stronger)
are there any particular pitfalls with the 1.8 motor - should I cast around for diesels? (i would prefer petrol tbh)

Edited by sawman on Tuesday 28th May 21:27

crostonian

2,427 posts

193 months

Tuesday 28th May 2013
quotequote all
1.8 is pretty good, no balance shafts to worry about and it is physically smaller than the 2.0 TS so slightly easier to work on. Usual Alfa Twin Spark probs are noisy cam variators - sounds like a diesel from cold and as it wears the sound lasts longer, they also like to drink oil so make sure there's some in it - frequent use with a low oil level will over time kill the bottom end.

If buying a diesel at shed level I'd go for an early 10 valve 2.4, these are pretty much bullet proof and sound good, only prob is they're even heavier on suspension components and clutches plus you have the constant worry of the injectors or turbo failing. The 1.9 8V is a reliable lump but a bit dull.

sawman

Original Poster:

5,082 posts

251 months

Tuesday 28th May 2013
quotequote all
Thanks chap, very helpful, I'll have a snout about at the weekend, roughly how long should the variator take to calm down after a cold start - is it just a few seconds or until fully warmed up?

crostonian

2,427 posts

193 months

Tuesday 28th May 2013
quotequote all
To be honest they can vary, on some cars the noise is more apparent when the engine's warm. It's only in extreme cases that it will cause any damage however the noise does suggest wear which means it won't be working as efficiently as it should. Don't get too hung up on it, if you are planning on changing the cambelt then do the variator at the same time, think they're around £60.

sawman

Original Poster:

5,082 posts

251 months

Tuesday 28th May 2013
quotequote all
H'mmm, cam belt swap looks to be beyond my experience and toolbox, any idea what the going rate is for this kind of job?

crostonian

2,427 posts

193 months

Tuesday 28th May 2013
quotequote all
I think a belt kit is approx £50 including the tensioner. The specialist I used to use could do it in 3 hours, so somewhere between £150 and £200 all in that excludes oils/filters or the variator if needed! Might be worth having a look at the water pump while you're at it although failure on TS engines is quite low.

arguti

1,836 posts

207 months

Wednesday 29th May 2013
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crostonian said:
I think a belt kit is approx £50 including the tensioner. The specialist I used to use could do it in 3 hours, so somewhere between £150 and £200 all in that excludes oils/filters or the variator if needed! Might be worth having a look at the water pump while you're at it although failure on TS engines is quite low.
Good overall guide of servicing costs from well know Alfa Independent

http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/alfa_romeo_servicing...

sawman

Original Poster:

5,082 posts

251 months

Wednesday 29th May 2013
quotequote all
arguti said:
Good overall guide of servicing costs from well know Alfa Independent

http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/alfa_romeo_servicing...
thanks for the link, looks like plenty of info there - just off to do some reading!

elbandito1980

134 posts

199 months

Tuesday 4th June 2013
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As the guys above have said, check for rust. Mine was going in the boot(near the spare tire)and the inner wings. Listen out for a rattle on start up that indicates the variator is on it's way out - same thing if it's reluctant to rev.

The upper wishbones creak a lot and need changing quite regularly. After that buy on condition and make sure its had the belts done - every 36k miles or 3 years on the Twin Sparks.

Nice cars though, I loved mine.

Alfahorn

7,815 posts

229 months

Tuesday 4th June 2013
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crostonian said:
I think a belt kit is approx £50 including the tensioner. The specialist I used to use could do it in 3 hours, so somewhere between £150 and £200 all in that excludes oils/filters or the variator if needed! Might be worth having a look at the water pump while you're at it although failure on TS engines is quite low.
Your advice is misleading.

A belt will cost more than £50, more like £80. That doesn't take in to account ancillaries.

Realistically £400 should be put to one side for a full belt change, including water pump & variatior.

I would strongly recommend the OP uses OEM parts, a decent Indy will generally use original parts.

Alfahorn

7,815 posts

229 months

Tuesday 4th June 2013
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The drop links are common issue. The problem would be exacerbated if the fitment of replacement components was not carried out correctly. Once the drop links have been replaced, you should get another 20.000 - 25,000 miles before they need doing again.

The handbrake cables can be a weakness, these corrode and can fail if not recitied. They tend to go slack and perish because their so exposed, not a huge job. The cables are about £12 per side and about 30 minutes labour time.

Look out of corrosion at the bottom of the radiator as they tend to get attacked by the salt on the roads. Also whilst you at it, make sure the fan cuts in and out correctly. There is a relay that has a tendency to burn out, it's located just behind the slam panel.

Thermostat - these have a tendancy to stick open, the car consequent runs cold. Again, not a big job to do.

Rear rear trailing arms, these can be stiff they become impossible to adjust can give the car a rear wheel drive like feel, lol.

Airbag warning light, this is common. The main areas to check are the connections under the seat and the airbag ECU located behind the centre console.

sawman

Original Poster:

5,082 posts

251 months

Tuesday 4th June 2013
quotequote all
Thanks for all the tips guys. I went to have a look at a 1.8 ts, but it hadn't weathered as well as the pics suggested. outside was a bit scuffy, which can live with but the the interior looked pretty worn too.

So I didnt get any further - picked up another old merc instead - maybe next time I'll go italian....