Found a GTV but not sure what to look for
Discussion
Hi all, really keen on a GTV of the V6 variety, and have found this one for sale at what I believe is a good price, but not sure what to look for: http://badgerautomotive.co.uk/used%20car%20stock/a...
I would accept that this inst going to be modern Honda reliable, but would like to have confidence I can get in and drive it without ending up needing the AA every other journey, so to that end is it worth getting it mechanically checked out before purchase?
I would have up to around £800 in reserve to get any bits and pieces fixed as required, but would prefer not to end up with big bills straight away, but appreciate it is a gamble!!
Any thoughts on the price, work it's had, and general condition on this one?
I would accept that this inst going to be modern Honda reliable, but would like to have confidence I can get in and drive it without ending up needing the AA every other journey, so to that end is it worth getting it mechanically checked out before purchase?
I would have up to around £800 in reserve to get any bits and pieces fixed as required, but would prefer not to end up with big bills straight away, but appreciate it is a gamble!!
Any thoughts on the price, work it's had, and general condition on this one?
I’ve just bought one so can give you some tips.
Track back the MOT history- there are some serial failure issues such as floorpan rust and suspension issues, so I’d want to see either a) no evidence of them or b) evidence of repair.
This is an import car, which may make a difference for insurance. If it hasn’t been done it will need undersealing.
The sunroof and electric seats are really rare options.
I’m not tall (5’10) and I’m pretty confined space wise. The driving position takes a little getting used to (legs or arms comfortable and natural; not both at the same time!)
The sunroof takes some headspace, but conversely the electric seats are more adjustable than the manual ones (they lower, whilst the standard ones don’t) so it may balance out.
It makes mention of a Quaife diff replacement. These make a night and day difference to the driving experience so having driven with and without if I could find one with I’d always go that route.
Similarly the GTA flywheel is a bonus, engine spins up much quicker.
The cam belt on its own is a 700-800 job at an Alfa specialist so you wouldn’t have much change for any other jobs. This is probably the most crucial job for peace of mind and longevity. Be aware that Alfa revised the guidelines a few years ago reducing the interval. I think it’s now 3 years and/or 36000 miles but I stand to be corrected.
If it’s not had a suspension re fresh it’s probably due one; the shocks, and more importantly the bushes will potentially need doing and add up to at least 500. On poor suspension it will drive really badly, the rear end gets very clonky and loose.
One little tip I was given is only adjust the seat with the engine off; the airbag may throw a wobbly otherwise as there is a sensor under the seat. Contrary to general opinion regarding Italian electrics these don’t seem to have too many horror stories.
Bodywork wise they are galvanised so you shouldn’t see too much rust.
Engine wise they do use oil, so be prepared to the fact that you’ll have to check it regularly.
Makes mention of 3 keys. Make sure one of them is the “brown” master key. I personally wouldn’t buy one with this key missing as the ECU is bespoke to the car and should it have any errors the brown key is essential.
I’ve redone the interior on mine (and whilst the one in this looks a little grubby the leather itself is good quality and responds well to treatment. It’s just splits I’d avoid, the cracks can be filled.)
I’ve got some photos of the results I got refurbishing mine in the “readers ride” section on here.
It’s spare wheel appears to be missing, it’s certainly not where it should be on the locking nut in the boot!
They tend to fall into two camps.
Those sitting in this sort of price bracket, and those for a few thousand more that have masses of bills. The potential for expenditure on these things is huge so the usual rules apply; buy the best you can and hopefully one that someone else has spent a fortune on!
Track back the MOT history- there are some serial failure issues such as floorpan rust and suspension issues, so I’d want to see either a) no evidence of them or b) evidence of repair.
This is an import car, which may make a difference for insurance. If it hasn’t been done it will need undersealing.
The sunroof and electric seats are really rare options.
I’m not tall (5’10) and I’m pretty confined space wise. The driving position takes a little getting used to (legs or arms comfortable and natural; not both at the same time!)
The sunroof takes some headspace, but conversely the electric seats are more adjustable than the manual ones (they lower, whilst the standard ones don’t) so it may balance out.
It makes mention of a Quaife diff replacement. These make a night and day difference to the driving experience so having driven with and without if I could find one with I’d always go that route.
Similarly the GTA flywheel is a bonus, engine spins up much quicker.
The cam belt on its own is a 700-800 job at an Alfa specialist so you wouldn’t have much change for any other jobs. This is probably the most crucial job for peace of mind and longevity. Be aware that Alfa revised the guidelines a few years ago reducing the interval. I think it’s now 3 years and/or 36000 miles but I stand to be corrected.
If it’s not had a suspension re fresh it’s probably due one; the shocks, and more importantly the bushes will potentially need doing and add up to at least 500. On poor suspension it will drive really badly, the rear end gets very clonky and loose.
One little tip I was given is only adjust the seat with the engine off; the airbag may throw a wobbly otherwise as there is a sensor under the seat. Contrary to general opinion regarding Italian electrics these don’t seem to have too many horror stories.
Bodywork wise they are galvanised so you shouldn’t see too much rust.
Engine wise they do use oil, so be prepared to the fact that you’ll have to check it regularly.
Makes mention of 3 keys. Make sure one of them is the “brown” master key. I personally wouldn’t buy one with this key missing as the ECU is bespoke to the car and should it have any errors the brown key is essential.
I’ve redone the interior on mine (and whilst the one in this looks a little grubby the leather itself is good quality and responds well to treatment. It’s just splits I’d avoid, the cracks can be filled.)
I’ve got some photos of the results I got refurbishing mine in the “readers ride” section on here.
It’s spare wheel appears to be missing, it’s certainly not where it should be on the locking nut in the boot!
They tend to fall into two camps.
Those sitting in this sort of price bracket, and those for a few thousand more that have masses of bills. The potential for expenditure on these things is huge so the usual rules apply; buy the best you can and hopefully one that someone else has spent a fortune on!
Edited by Gmlgml on Thursday 6th June 12:11
The driver side of the bonnet looks to be sitting right, it's only the passenger side that looks high / bumper too low. They don't sit unevenly when not fully closed.
Are those 16" 156 teledials or 17" GTV ones?
Missing spare.
Grubby leather. Crappy mats.
Rusty sills judging by the closeup of the rear wheel. Rust mentioned on last MOT advisories.
Airbag fault - tape covering the light - that should have failed the last MOT? Been like that since 2014. Doesn't give a warm fuzzy feeling of good ownership, nor does the rest of the recent MOT history.
Well overpriced given all that.
Are those 16" 156 teledials or 17" GTV ones?
Missing spare.
Grubby leather. Crappy mats.
Rusty sills judging by the closeup of the rear wheel. Rust mentioned on last MOT advisories.
Airbag fault - tape covering the light - that should have failed the last MOT? Been like that since 2014. Doesn't give a warm fuzzy feeling of good ownership, nor does the rest of the recent MOT history.
Well overpriced given all that.
Thanks so much for your feedback on this one, and really useful buying info, this doesn't seem like the one for me.
Gmlgml, saw your readers car thread, lovely GTV, and it mentions a really nice blue one for sale https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
Significantly more but really sounds like money well spent providing all that work has genuinely been done, and to a good standard, might contact the owner and see if I can take a look (I'm in Kent too).
Gmlgml, saw your readers car thread, lovely GTV, and it mentions a really nice blue one for sale https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
Significantly more but really sounds like money well spent providing all that work has genuinely been done, and to a good standard, might contact the owner and see if I can take a look (I'm in Kent too).
Thunderhead said:
Thanks so much for your feedback on this one, and really useful buying info, this doesn't seem like the one for me.
Gmlgml, saw your readers car thread, lovely GTV, and it mentions a really nice blue one for sale https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
Significantly more but really sounds like money well spent providing all that work has genuinely been done, and to a good standard, might contact the owner and see if I can take a look (I'm in Kent too).
Honestly spending more makes masses of sense. I, like you, started looking around the 4K mark. The first one I looked at for this price bracket (it’s still for sale) was an absolute dog of a car. Gmlgml, saw your readers car thread, lovely GTV, and it mentions a really nice blue one for sale https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
Significantly more but really sounds like money well spent providing all that work has genuinely been done, and to a good standard, might contact the owner and see if I can take a look (I'm in Kent too).
The MOT history on these is telling. You can generally tell what’s been run on a shoe string
I then looked up the cost of the common pitfalls (so the aforementioned cam belt, almost essential diff, suspension maladies, brake issues etc) and costed out doing them. You’ll be well into 3k territory before you know it.
I then started to see plenty of cars in the 6-9k bracket that had significant sums of money dumped into them (the biggest single invoice I saw on one advertised was 4K!!!) that simply made more financial sense to buy.
I’ve totted up the bills that came with mine and it’s over 7k in the last 10 years.
I’d hold out for something in this category, it will make better man maths for the future.
If you like the GTV and are on a budget, I woudn't rule out the 2.0TS. You don't get the Busso noise, but I personally find it a better drive.
I have the 2.0 V6 GTV which I believe is only available in LHD - it only has a few HP less than the NA 3 liter, and (IMO) is the best drive of all of the GTV's.
I have the 2.0 V6 GTV which I believe is only available in LHD - it only has a few HP less than the NA 3 liter, and (IMO) is the best drive of all of the GTV's.
Just to chime in, the specialist I use, A for Alfa in Aylesbury it's more like £500 for a cambelt last time I checked, not the 700-800 mentioned above 
Engine is solid, check suspension (bushes etc) and signs of rust really.
Airbag light can be triggered by moving the driver's seat whilst ignition is on, authentic Italian wiring is part of the charm
Also, work under the assumption that every GTV is a £5k GTV. What you save in purchase price you'll probably have to pay in first year fixes
Engine is solid, check suspension (bushes etc) and signs of rust really.
Airbag light can be triggered by moving the driver's seat whilst ignition is on, authentic Italian wiring is part of the charm

Also, work under the assumption that every GTV is a £5k GTV. What you save in purchase price you'll probably have to pay in first year fixes
Edited by SturdyHSV on Thursday 6th June 19:08
SturdyHSV said:
Just to chime in, the specialist I use, A for Alfa in Aylesbury it's more like £500 for a cambelt last time I checked, not the 700-800 mentioned above 
Engine is solid, check suspension (bushes etc) and signs of rust really.
Airbag light can be triggered by moving the driver's seat whilst ignition is on, authentic Italian wiring is part of the charm
Engine is solid, check suspension (bushes etc) and signs of rust really.
Airbag light can be triggered by moving the driver's seat whilst ignition is on, authentic Italian wiring is part of the charm

Only going off the bill I’ve got, from exactly the garage you mention. 8 months ago.
No other work on the bill.
£770.88
As a pure ballpark, without anything major going wrong, what sort of monthly budget is required to run one (minus fuel) and ensure its in tip top condition?
I do less than 3000 miles per year but need them to be reliable miles.
Also, would you use Alfa for servicing, a specialist, or a general garage?
I do less than 3000 miles per year but need them to be reliable miles.
Also, would you use Alfa for servicing, a specialist, or a general garage?
I'd spend a little time reading through the AO forum: https://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-gtv-andamp-91...
Thunderhead said:
As a pure ballpark, without anything major going wrong, what sort of monthly budget is required to run one (minus fuel) and ensure its in tip top condition?
I do less than 3000 miles per year but need them to be reliable miles.
Also, would you use Alfa for servicing, a specialist, or a general garage?
Adding up old bills on mine general maintenance seems reasonable, with service type stuff being 200-350 a year.I do less than 3000 miles per year but need them to be reliable miles.
Also, would you use Alfa for servicing, a specialist, or a general garage?
However, every year it’s also thrown up a reasonable sized bill (cambelt one year, suspension re build one year, clutch and flywheel another) all of which are in the 700-1000 ball park.
So I guess that’s your answer. 1k to 1.5k. Ish!
I don’t have a specialist nearby and having had a new Alfa as well I wasn’t too enamoured of the main dealer.
I have a trusted Indy nearby and was planning on using that. I don’t think they are overly complicated with regards to service nor need any specialist tools or equipment, but someone of a more mechanical mindset may have a differing opinion.
You _can_ run a GTV on a shoestring. For a while...! Suspension will land you with a big bill sooner or later. Lots of stuff is fairly straightforward DIY. Some parts becoming hard to get hold of.
I bought one for next to nothing, put a cambelt on it, and have spent another couple of hundred on bits and pieces and it flew through an MOT. Still has various niggles and won't ever be a concours example but meh, drives well.
Monthly costs hard to say - oil top-ups and bulbs, like any other car, if you're lucky. Everything under the sun if you're not. I've always said £1000 a year to keep any Alfa going, that's usually been an underestimate.
I bought one for next to nothing, put a cambelt on it, and have spent another couple of hundred on bits and pieces and it flew through an MOT. Still has various niggles and won't ever be a concours example but meh, drives well.
Monthly costs hard to say - oil top-ups and bulbs, like any other car, if you're lucky. Everything under the sun if you're not. I've always said £1000 a year to keep any Alfa going, that's usually been an underestimate.
Some good advice above particularly to do do some research on AO, they aren't too difficult to work on at all to be honest.
Biggest things that would worry me with these is what's hidden behind the side sill covers, could be lucky or a world of pain. Bad rust on the rear floor pan and rotting through rear quarters (NS usually) also worth looking out for.
My guess with the badly fitting front bumper is the support has rotted through on the NS and snapped. If it is that it's a cheap and easy fix.
Biggest things that would worry me with these is what's hidden behind the side sill covers, could be lucky or a world of pain. Bad rust on the rear floor pan and rotting through rear quarters (NS usually) also worth looking out for.
My guess with the badly fitting front bumper is the support has rotted through on the NS and snapped. If it is that it's a cheap and easy fix.
Thunderhead said:
Hi all, really keen on a GTV of the V6 variety, and have found this one for sale at what I believe is a good price, but not sure what to look for: http://badgerautomotive.co.uk/used%20car%20stock/a...
I would accept that this inst going to be modern Honda reliable, but would like to have confidence I can get in and drive it without ending up needing the AA every other journey, so to that end is it worth getting it mechanically checked out before purchase?
I would have up to around £800 in reserve to get any bits and pieces fixed as required, but would prefer not to end up with big bills straight away, but appreciate it is a gamble!!
Any thoughts on the price, work it's had, and general condition on this one?
Thread bump - Hi OP, just wondered if you ever acquired a GTV to your liking? I have mine for sale presently.I would accept that this inst going to be modern Honda reliable, but would like to have confidence I can get in and drive it without ending up needing the AA every other journey, so to that end is it worth getting it mechanically checked out before purchase?
I would have up to around £800 in reserve to get any bits and pieces fixed as required, but would prefer not to end up with big bills straight away, but appreciate it is a gamble!!
Any thoughts on the price, work it's had, and general condition on this one?
As other have said you can buy a low priced V6 which has unknowns and will need £ spending or start with a well sorted car and enjoy it. I searched for mine for a while and the previous owner to me was an Alfa nut and had cherished the car. I paid strong money for it back in 2016 and it was worth it. I have added to the car in my ownership - please see the advert here for full details if of interest;
https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1129727
DM me if you would like any other info
Cheers
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