locking tools to do a 2ltr GTV cam belt

[brakedust]

As above, just got myself a lovely gun metal grey GTV with red leather, she has 145000 miles though but has full history upto 125k, any ideas when the cam belt would have been changed last? I was thinking of just changing it to be sure?

So what do I need to do the job? (apart from a cam belt!)

[sjg]

Cambelt was originally scheduled at 72k/5 years, revised to 36k/3 years later on.

http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/alfa_cam_belt_change...

[rustybin]

Having just finished doing a cambelt & variator change on a 97 GTV T-Spark a couple of woerds of advice...

1) you need longer bolts for the cam locking tools not the cam bearing cap ones otherwise when you attempt to remove the variator or exhaust cam pulley bolt they will pull out of the head. They are M7 x 50mm so tricky to find.

2) Do get the variator removal tool if you are doing the variator. If you try to use a standard peg spanner it will slip out and you will punch yourself in the chin very hard.

3) the balance belt tensioner is removed by a nut on the back.

4) when installing the cam belt tensioner, try cable tying the sprung prong to the bent out bit of the back plate (it'll make sense when you see it) to ease the tension then fit. remove the cable tie when you have the belt in the right place.

5) Most improtant. The cams maybe locked but the crank isn't. Make sure when you put the new belt on that the crank has not moved and you are still at TDC on number on piston. You can double check by looking at the marking on the balancer shaft belt and pulley which has another mark on the plastic behind it.

Hope it helps someone

[Zombie]

rustybin said:

Having just finished doing a cambelt & variator change on a 97 GTV T-Spark a couple of woerds of advice...

1) you need longer bolts for the cam locking tools not the cam bearing cap ones otherwise when you attempt to remove the variator or exhaust cam pulley bolt they will pull out of the head. They are M7 x 50mm so tricky to find.

5) Most improtant. The cams maybe locked but the crank isn't. Make sure when you put the new belt on that the crank has not moved and you are still at TDC on number on piston. You can double check by looking at the marking on the balancer shaft belt and pulley which has another mark on the plastic behind it.

Hope it helps someone

Using the cam locks to hold the cam whilst you undo the pully bolts is a big No No!!!!!! You need a tool like the one below to hold the pully whilst you undo the bolt. You also need to make sure you don't damage the drum on the inside of the exhaust pully or the cam sensor whilst doing this.



I would also recommend that you use a DTI to find TDC.

Edited by Zombie on Monday 15th December 13:02

[rustybin]

Zombie said:

Using the cam locks to hold the cam whilst you undo the pully bolts is a big No No!!!!!! You need a tool like the one below to hold the pully whilst you undo the bolt.

Why if you have a decent length of bolt in the cam locking tool? It is much more stable than using two opposing tools either of which could apply a jerk load to the cam when the thread releases.

Zombie said:

You also need to make sure you don't damage the drum on the inside of the exhaust pully or the cam sensor whilst doing this.

Not a problem on the T-Spark.

Zombie said:

I would also recommend that you use a DTI to find TDC.

Absolutely, though on the T-Spark you could just about get away with it by using the markings on the pulleys. That said I wouldn't want too first time around!

[Zombie]

rustybin said:

Zombie said:

Using the cam locks to hold the cam whilst you undo the pully bolts is a big No No!!!!!! You need a tool like the one below to hold the pully whilst you undo the bolt.

Why if you have a decent length of bolt in the cam locking tool? It is much more stable than using two opposing tools either of which could apply a jerk load to the cam when the thread releases.

Zombie said:

You also need to make sure you don't damage the drum on the inside of the exhaust pully or the cam sensor whilst doing this.

Not a problem on the T-Spark.

Yeah, it IS a problem on the T-spark. Its not on the V6 as the sensor is on the rear bank on the opposing end of the camshaft but the cam sensor on a tspark is behing the exhaust pully. It picks up a track on the back of the pully. You can either damage the sensor itself or the track. If you damage the track it'll run out of true and damage the sensor. The sensor itself is around 130 but you need to remove the belts again to change it. It has a blue connector BTW, just in case you're confused as to which on I mean.

As for using the cam locks to hold the cam whilst you undo the pully bolt, I have seen and rebuilt many twin sparks that have stripped cam bearing cap threads as a result of people doing this. It really isn't a good idea, even if you use longer bolts or counter sink the cam locks. The only good news is you can, if you're carefull, insert a helicoil with the head insitu.