Front Wheel Bearing replacement
Discussion
OK here's my front wheel bearing done today.
Contents of bearing kit - I bought this off ebay for a fiver and specifically went for this one because it comes with a replacement hub nut - many kits don't.
Compare old part numbers and new to make sure they correspond in some way.
My replacement bearing is identical to the old one - its even made by the same manufacturer.
Old race underneath, new bearing sitting on top. The brown stain is a bit of dry grease.
I had previously removed the bearing races from the hub - just a case of knocking them out from behind each one with a drift.
Try not to mark the steel surfaces where the races sit in the hub.
I caught one of them and ground it off with a small round grinding stone running slowly in my cordless drill.
Once the old races are out you need to fit the new ones - they are knocked into position according to the haynes manual with a 'suitable sized piece of tube'.
I never have a 'suitable sized piece of tube' so I got both of the old races, stacked them on top of each other.
Then I stuck them together with a bit of insulating tape.
Now you have Mr Haynes 'suitable sized piece of tube'
Put the new race into the hub
Then put the magic piece of tube on top and tap it home.
Similarly it also works for the front seal.
Then you have to have a word with yourself as you didn't put the bearing in first you stupid boy!
Fortunately the seal came out again OK, I tapped it out from behind.
Make sure when you tap the seal in using this method that the lip of the seal is inside the old race all the way round (I did that bit right!)
Here's a pic of the hub when I'd actually put the front bearing in, the hub tapped through the front bearing fairly easily, then I put the rear bearing into the hub as you can see here.
Make sure the bearings are well packed with appropriate grease.
(Thats the old bearing on top being used to tap down the new one which is underneath)
Then refit the splined washer you took out when you dismantled the hub, fit the new hub nut, and using this mother torque up the hub nut.
I bought this torque wrench ages ago for £35 on ebay.
Here it is in action
I didn't rotate the vice - it did that itself once I started swinging on that torque wrench!
I also nearly pulled the bench over.
Pack a bit more grease in the back and tap the dust cover back on.
Bob's yer uncle!
Contents of bearing kit - I bought this off ebay for a fiver and specifically went for this one because it comes with a replacement hub nut - many kits don't.
Compare old part numbers and new to make sure they correspond in some way.
My replacement bearing is identical to the old one - its even made by the same manufacturer.
Old race underneath, new bearing sitting on top. The brown stain is a bit of dry grease.
I had previously removed the bearing races from the hub - just a case of knocking them out from behind each one with a drift.
Try not to mark the steel surfaces where the races sit in the hub.
I caught one of them and ground it off with a small round grinding stone running slowly in my cordless drill.
Once the old races are out you need to fit the new ones - they are knocked into position according to the haynes manual with a 'suitable sized piece of tube'.
I never have a 'suitable sized piece of tube' so I got both of the old races, stacked them on top of each other.
Then I stuck them together with a bit of insulating tape.
Now you have Mr Haynes 'suitable sized piece of tube'
Put the new race into the hub
Then put the magic piece of tube on top and tap it home.
Similarly it also works for the front seal.
Then you have to have a word with yourself as you didn't put the bearing in first you stupid boy!
Fortunately the seal came out again OK, I tapped it out from behind.
Make sure when you tap the seal in using this method that the lip of the seal is inside the old race all the way round (I did that bit right!)
Here's a pic of the hub when I'd actually put the front bearing in, the hub tapped through the front bearing fairly easily, then I put the rear bearing into the hub as you can see here.
Make sure the bearings are well packed with appropriate grease.
(Thats the old bearing on top being used to tap down the new one which is underneath)
Then refit the splined washer you took out when you dismantled the hub, fit the new hub nut, and using this mother torque up the hub nut.
I bought this torque wrench ages ago for £35 on ebay.
Here it is in action
I didn't rotate the vice - it did that itself once I started swinging on that torque wrench!
I also nearly pulled the bench over.
Pack a bit more grease in the back and tap the dust cover back on.
Bob's yer uncle!
Edited by Barkychoc on Friday 13th June 20:55
Edited by Barkychoc on Thursday 30th October 19:07
ketvrin said:
Nice script Chris...
we've got to start getting these "how to's" on a Wiki or on the FAQ list...
K
They will be appearing on the S-series area of the TVRCC web site once they give me my new web editing toys. This one for example, I was going to combine with my own from a couple of weeks ago (with the OP's permission). we've got to start getting these "how to's" on a Wiki or on the FAQ list...
K
I've got a couple more on my own site that I was also going to add to the S-series area of the club site. I'm also hoping to get permission from other site owners to "borrow" some of theirs. That way they won't be lost in general chit-chat but (I hope) easily indexed for owners to look up as necessary.
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