Ask an Electrician anything...

[clockworks]

If it's a stud wall (looks like it in the pic), should be really easy to extend the ring from the hallway socket into the lounge for 2 double sockets, then either spur off to a socket up the wall, or just extend the ring up there as well.
Just remove one cable from the hallway socket and pull it through to a livingroom socket.
Cable from that socket to the next one in the living room, etc.

Cable from final socket in the living room, back to the hallway socket.

I'm not a sparky, just a keen DIYer for nearly 50 years. My dad was a sparky, so my work is safe, but maybe not up with the latest regs.
I wired up my media wall this way, breaking into and extending a ring.

[BertyFish]

Thanks guys,

Think it makes sense, so as theres 2 of each wire to the double socket from the main ring in hall i can pinch a set of these,
feed through the wall to a double socket then spur off up the wall to the tv? or i could add another double socket next to it and feed the tv power cable and hdmi to a modular blanking plate behind the tv?

My quick picture.

[dhutch]

BertyFish said:

Thanks guys,

Think it makes sense, so as theres 2 of each wire to the double socket from the main ring in hall i can pinch a set of these,
feed through the wall to a double socket then spur off up the wall to the tv?

You cant pinch it as such, you can move one of the two wires from the existing hall socket to the new socket below the TV, but you then need to close the ring back again, by adding a link from the new socket back to the old socket. So again, all the sockets have two wires in them, and there is a complete ring running around the house through each socket on the ring.

[Regbuser]

dhutch said:

BertyFish said:

Thanks guys,

Think it makes sense, so as theres 2 of each wire to the double socket from the main ring in hall i can pinch a set of these,
feed through the wall to a double socket then spur off up the wall to the tv?

You cant pinch it as such, you can move one of the two wires from the existing hall socket to the new socket below the TV, but you then need to close the ring back again, by adding a link from the new socket back to the old socket. So again, all the sockets have two wires in them, and there is a complete ring running around the house through each socket on the ring.

No, all the sockets will require 2 sets of conductors, 4 wires in all.

..plus CPCs, obvs..

Edited by Regbuser on Thursday 14th November 16:49

[Trustmeimadoctor]

Why doesn't the CPC have insulation

[Gary C]

clockworks said:

Get a twin back box, and use 2 separate plates/sockets:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-1-1-gang-dry-li...

Thing is, the double is on the wall and just looking for the simplest approach but yet, might have to do that.

[RichB]

Why are earths called CPCs?
Is it just to mystify older people who call it earth - as in 'twin & earth'?

[Rough101]

Trustmeimadoctor said:

Why doesn't the CPC have insulation

Doesn’t really need it as it’s not a current carrying conductor, but it’s changing and the latest standard does have a CPC sheath. Which makes it a lot harder to strip.

[DorsetSparky]

RichB said:

Why are earths called CPCs?
Is it just to mystify older people who call it earth - as in 'twin & earth'?

I'd say it's because earth suggests only an earthing conductor, whereas Circuit Protective Conductor also includes the equipotential bonding conductors.

I do agree, but at the same time, earthing conductor seems more narrow a definition than CPC.
Earth is included within CPC, but the scope of CPC is wider than that!

[DorsetSparky]

RichB said:

Why are earths called CPCs?
Is it just to mystify older people who call it earth - as in 'twin & earth'?

We had a guy who used to work with us who called it Twin and Skin.
No either idea, but it's stuck. Colleagues, supervisor, and I all now call it twin and skin!

[tight fart]

Is there any advantage with this type of tester over a multi meter, or does it have other uses?

[ruggedscotty]

tight fart said:

Is there any advantage with this type of tester over a multi meter, or does it have other uses?

multi meter has more functions however the one you show here has phuase rotation which could be good if you have three phase.

As a sparkie id be looking to have a basic set of test lamps for proving dead, along with a voltage proving uint.
then you do a live dead live check... or rather check the tester on a known voltage (proving unit) live check then check the circuit dead. what your about to work on then do a live check on proving unit just to ensure its still working...




thing is you dont want a tester doing multiple functions, just a pure simple voltage tester for proving dead. Those combined testers you check for voltage, find that it bleeps is it continuity or is it voltage... thats the issue.

[bmwmike]

Just had my consumer units replaced with a single metal one, all RCD etc. What should I expect in terms of documentation, building control etc? Is there a time limit?

[tight fart]

Thanks Scotty

[Actual]

bmwmike said:

Just had my consumer units replaced with a single metal one, all RCD etc. What should I expect in terms of documentation, building control etc? Is there a time limit?

You should get a Domestic Electrical Installation Certificate of about 6 pages describing the job and test results for each circuit.

The electrician can capture this info as he works and the certificate could be generated automatically after a few days and possibly after you have paid for the work.

Also a Building Regulations Compliance Certificate.

[bmwmike]

Actual said:

You should get a Domestic Electrical Installation Certificate of about 6 pages describing the job and test results for each circuit.

The electrician can capture this info as he works and the certificate could be generated automatically after a few days and possibly after you have paid for the work.

Also a Building Regulations Compliance Certificate.

Thank you, much gracias

[Rockettvr]

Anyone have experience of using a megger 1700 series tester to test time delay Rcd’s ?
Helping a mate the other day to do some testing using his new megger. Part of the installation was a 100mA rcd with a time delay set at 0.5 sec.
Got a reading of 538 mS on the test
I thought fine as it includes the 0.5 sec of time delay so pass
Mate thinks it’s a fail as it’s over 538mS and doesn’t include the delay and therefore outside regs
Can anyone clarify???
He’s gone off to red the new testers manual properly , I’ve been looking online to try and find out but struggling to find anything definitive
Ta

[Regbuser]

What is the stamped type of RCD, as in to what BSEN code is it manufactured to?

17th edition guidance here > https://electrical.theiet.org/media/1627/17th-edit... < which may be applicable to a legacy installation

18th edition guidance here > https://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/years... < which is applicable to a new installation

[Rockettvr]

Regbuser said:

What is the stamped type of RCD, as in to what BSEN code is it manufactured to?

17th edition guidance here > https://electrical.theiet.org/media/1627/17th-edit... < which may be applicable to a legacy installation

18th edition guidance here > https://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/years... < which is applicable to a new installation

Hi
Thanks for the post but only asking for advice on weather the trip time displayed on the megger includes the rcd time delay or not ??
Happy with the test itself but need clarity on the resulting reading.

Edited by Rockettvr on Friday 29th November 07:48

[Regbuser]

Unless the test instrument has a specific time delay function for a particular type of protection device, then the 538ms will be total time to trip.