My nob nearly brought me to tears
Discussion
This is what my nob looks like today! 
after having it all put back together only about a week ago the clutch stopped working while mr jasper was mapping on thurs. Lucky for me it didn't affect the session much. But its tight to get it all back together for silverstone.
after talking to a few people id come to the conclusion that it is the slave sylinder that is at fault. But there's no way that engine was coming out again so i dicided to cut the chassy, which is the route i chose not to go down on my recent rebuild coz its "not the proper job". i was told by a dealer they wouldn't buy a car that had been cut, however after thinking about it, iv'e no intention of ever selling my car to a dealer (why would i sell it for a fraction of what its really worth).
After invetigating the slave looked ok. But we got it up to pressure we could see it was letting oil pass. on removing the slave from the box the reason became aparent, a while ago i had the box soda blasted (with the slave on) ready to paint. now the slave was full of soda ,which was making jam on an off as the soda had gone hard.
So a lesson has been lernt stick to making things out of wood.
after having it all put back together only about a week ago the clutch stopped working while mr jasper was mapping on thurs. Lucky for me it didn't affect the session much. But its tight to get it all back together for silverstone.
after talking to a few people id come to the conclusion that it is the slave sylinder that is at fault. But there's no way that engine was coming out again so i dicided to cut the chassy, which is the route i chose not to go down on my recent rebuild coz its "not the proper job". i was told by a dealer they wouldn't buy a car that had been cut, however after thinking about it, iv'e no intention of ever selling my car to a dealer (why would i sell it for a fraction of what its really worth).
After invetigating the slave looked ok. But we got it up to pressure we could see it was letting oil pass. on removing the slave from the box the reason became aparent, a while ago i had the box soda blasted (with the slave on) ready to paint. now the slave was full of soda ,which was making jam on an off as the soda had gone hard.
So a lesson has been lernt stick to making things out of wood.
Hey Steve, i am with you on that one, i learned some very hard lessons and i know how frustrating it can be, don't worry about cutting the chassis, weld the pieces back in and all will be good, just don't do it more than twice or the grain structure of the steel is affected and gets brittle.
Do not bolt unless it is going to be a fixed /momment connection, the ones i have seen with a pinned joint do not work, it is like adding a knee in what is supposed to be a continuous member, i.e. it allows rotation.
Weld it back in is my advice, or below is a schematic of how a moment connection for a removeable member should work, it is only a guideline, things may be in the way, i.e. engine mounts but the design principle remains on the end connections.
The forces have to be passed through the walls of the box section, sandwich plates same width allow this transfer and stop the box section from crushing.
The end connections have to be kept as close as possible to the corner joints, but the plates will stiffen locally to allow transfer.
Do not bolt unless it is going to be a fixed /momment connection, the ones i have seen with a pinned joint do not work, it is like adding a knee in what is supposed to be a continuous member, i.e. it allows rotation.
Weld it back in is my advice, or below is a schematic of how a moment connection for a removeable member should work, it is only a guideline, things may be in the way, i.e. engine mounts but the design principle remains on the end connections.
The forces have to be passed through the walls of the box section, sandwich plates same width allow this transfer and stop the box section from crushing.
The end connections have to be kept as close as possible to the corner joints, but the plates will stiffen locally to allow transfer.
2.5bluenob said:
How do i check Jim? just looking?
What if it has?
Cheers
Steve
I'd remove the pressure plate and take a good look at both sides of the clutch disk, looking for wet spots, oily spots, etc. If it is contaminated, your best bet is either to get a new clutch disk, or have your present one relined. There's no good way to clean it, if it's been soaked with hydraulic fluid, and the soaked spots won't hold as much torque as clean areas, so you have a greater chance of the clutch slipping. Much better to change it now when everything is apart, than to put it all back together and have to pull the transmission again to fix it if it slips. Unless, of course, you really enjoy pulling the transmission...What if it has?
Cheers
Steve
Jim O. said:
I'd remove the pressure plate and take a good look at both sides of the clutch disk, looking for wet spots, oily spots, etc. If it is contaminated, your best bet is either to get a new clutch disk, or have your present one relined. There's no good way to clean it, if it's been soaked with hydraulic fluid, and the soaked spots won't hold as much torque as clean areas, so you have a greater chance of the clutch slipping. Much better to change it now when everything is apart, than to put it all back together and have to pull the transmission again to fix it if it slips. Unless, of course, you really enjoy pulling the transmission...
Thanks Jim, but im going to have to take a chance on it as car needs to be up and running for tues. And thats an upgraded clutch so i couln't get hold of one at that short notice.Cheers
Steve
At the very least, remove the clutch disk and give it, along with the pressure plate and flywheel, a good cleaning with brake cleaner. That should remove any oil from the friction surfaces - oil may still be trapped inside the lining on the clutch disk, but hopefully it will give you some time before it becomes a problem.
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