**Oil change every 3000 Miles**
Discussion
You can change it as often as you like but as to providing any better protection? Jury is out as the reason for the 3000 mile oil change dates back to the use of mineral oils that sludged up with heat and needed changing at 3000 miles or earlier.
Modern synthetics are designed to last a lot longer so there is not the need to do it. If it makes you happier and you don't mind the extra costs, then go ahead.
Modern synthetics are designed to last a lot longer so there is not the need to do it. If it makes you happier and you don't mind the extra costs, then go ahead.
I can't speak for the TVR versions of the RV8 but I can tell you that all of the RV8's I've had (standard to full face spec blocks in Vitesse's) do not like the synthetic oil as it's too thin. The engine was designed 50 years ago when such oils weren't in existence, consequently the tolerances are not up to the job. Stick with a good quality mineral like castrol magnatec which won't run past the oil control rings and go up in smoke.
All IMHO of course, I can only speak for my experience on and off the track with non-TVR RV8's. If you know different please say.
Cheers,
Duke
All IMHO of course, I can only speak for my experience on and off the track with non-TVR RV8's. If you know different please say.
Cheers,
Duke
The trouble is that with TVRs, the heat in the engine bay will kill a mineral oil as soon as you can say "Duckham's Green Stuff" The result is the oil needs to be changed very frequently. The 520 which has a full race engine has it oil changed almost everytime it goes on the trcak because the oil sludges and goes well past its sell by date. Now I don't mind this(especially as I have a lift in the garage now and buy the stuff by the pallet) but it is a little impractical for a road car.
With TVR's synthetics are the way to go for everyday use. If oil consumption with the 0W30/40 stuff is not acceptable, use the thicker grades like Motorsport.
The other interesting issue is that the oil delivery in the Serpentine engines is very different from that of the original design so to say it is a 50 year old design so use a 50 year old oil is a bit of a myth...
With TVR's synthetics are the way to go for everyday use. If oil consumption with the 0W30/40 stuff is not acceptable, use the thicker grades like Motorsport.
The other interesting issue is that the oil delivery in the Serpentine engines is very different from that of the original design so to say it is a 50 year old design so use a 50 year old oil is a bit of a myth...
Interesting stuff, if TVR produce a specific oil for the job then it would seem like a sensible suggestion.
BTW I'm not suggesting using a "50 year old" classic type oil, simply a modern mineral. I used magantec for a couple of seasons in a full race 4.5 in my Twin Plenum Vitesse (changed regularly) and never had any sludging problems - but obviously it's a different kettle of fish to road use.
BTW I'm not suggesting using a "50 year old" classic type oil, simply a modern mineral. I used magantec for a couple of seasons in a full race 4.5 in my Twin Plenum Vitesse (changed regularly) and never had any sludging problems - but obviously it's a different kettle of fish to road use.

daftlad said:
Steve,
Mineral oil does not break down till approaching 140 Deg C. TVRs do not see this underbonnet heat surely?
No but the engine does. The engine is probably twice as powerful as the original 50 year old design which means that it has roughly twice the amount of heat to get rid. The body is GRP and not that good at heat dissapation so the engines do get quite warm.
Use mineral oil if you want but be prepared to check it and change it frequently.
Fly Fifer said:
Geez,
Would this affect performance or "just" knacker the engine?
The sludge knackers the engine as it is not that good a lubricant. To be honest, give the car some TLC right now and don't do it again otherwise the TVR Police will have to confiscate the car.
STP is a waste of money. Better off putting it towards a catch up service.
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