**Oil change every 3000 Miles**
**Oil change every 3000 Miles**
Author
Discussion

chim500nj

Original Poster:

394 posts

270 months

Tuesday 18th May 2004
quotequote all
Is it okay to change the oil every 3000 Miles. I would assume that this would keep the inside of the engine much healthier?

Corin Denton

8,762 posts

297 months

Tuesday 18th May 2004
quotequote all
chim500nj said:
Is it okay to change the oil every 3000 Miles. I would assume that this would keep the inside of the engine much healthier?



I do

chimburt

751 posts

288 months

Tuesday 18th May 2004
quotequote all
had an old rover 216, bought with 80k, went on to do another 100k, engine still sweet ( but body falling apart all around it )
changed the oil every 4k on that. terrific car in some ways.

phillwalden

39 posts

277 months

Wednesday 19th May 2004
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I would be changing the oil every 6-8 weeks! I think I can hold out and change it every 6,000

DustyC

12,822 posts

283 months

Wednesday 19th May 2004
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phillwalden said:
I would be changing the oil every 6-8 weeks! I think I can hold out and change it every 6,000


Same here. I guess it depends on how much you use it as well.

shpub

8,507 posts

301 months

Wednesday 19th May 2004
quotequote all
You can change it as often as you like but as to providing any better protection? Jury is out as the reason for the 3000 mile oil change dates back to the use of mineral oils that sludged up with heat and needed changing at 3000 miles or earlier.

Modern synthetics are designed to last a lot longer so there is not the need to do it. If it makes you happier and you don't mind the extra costs, then go ahead.

Duke Thrust

1,680 posts

268 months

Wednesday 19th May 2004
quotequote all
I can't speak for the TVR versions of the RV8 but I can tell you that all of the RV8's I've had (standard to full face spec blocks in Vitesse's) do not like the synthetic oil as it's too thin. The engine was designed 50 years ago when such oils weren't in existence, consequently the tolerances are not up to the job. Stick with a good quality mineral like castrol magnatec which won't run past the oil control rings and go up in smoke.

All IMHO of course, I can only speak for my experience on and off the track with non-TVR RV8's. If you know different please say.

Cheers,

Duke

shpub

8,507 posts

301 months

Wednesday 19th May 2004
quotequote all
The trouble is that with TVRs, the heat in the engine bay will kill a mineral oil as soon as you can say "Duckham's Green Stuff" The result is the oil needs to be changed very frequently. The 520 which has a full race engine has it oil changed almost everytime it goes on the trcak because the oil sludges and goes well past its sell by date. Now I don't mind this(especially as I have a lift in the garage now and buy the stuff by the pallet) but it is a little impractical for a road car.

With TVR's synthetics are the way to go for everyday use. If oil consumption with the 0W30/40 stuff is not acceptable, use the thicker grades like Motorsport.

The other interesting issue is that the oil delivery in the Serpentine engines is very different from that of the original design so to say it is a 50 year old design so use a 50 year old oil is a bit of a myth...

Duke Thrust

1,680 posts

268 months

Wednesday 19th May 2004
quotequote all
Interesting stuff, if TVR produce a specific oil for the job then it would seem like a sensible suggestion.

BTW I'm not suggesting using a "50 year old" classic type oil, simply a modern mineral. I used magantec for a couple of seasons in a full race 4.5 in my Twin Plenum Vitesse (changed regularly) and never had any sludging problems - but obviously it's a different kettle of fish to road use.

daftlad

3,324 posts

270 months

Wednesday 19th May 2004
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Steve,
Mineral oil does not break down till approaching 140 Deg C. TVRs do not see this underbonnet heat surely?

Fly Fifer

58 posts

270 months

Wednesday 19th May 2004
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Geez,

I've never changed my oil in about 10,000 miles in my 4.5. Gonna now.

Would this affect performance or "just" knacker the engine?

I have heard that RV8s like a thicker oil - was thinking about adding STP to my synthethic oil. Any thoughts.

squirrelz

1,186 posts

300 months

Wednesday 19th May 2004
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Fly Fifer said:
I've never changed my oil in about 10,000 miles in my 4.5. Gonna now.
Eeek! You do realise the service interval is every 6000?

Resale value is going to take a bit of a hit with a 10000 mile gap..... effectively a missed service.

Fly Fifer

58 posts

270 months

Wednesday 19th May 2004
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Guess I better not sell it then.

No, thanks for that - I need to get my finger out.

shpub

8,507 posts

301 months

Wednesday 19th May 2004
quotequote all
daftlad said:
Steve,
Mineral oil does not break down till approaching 140 Deg C. TVRs do not see this underbonnet heat surely?

No but the engine does. The engine is probably twice as powerful as the original 50 year old design which means that it has roughly twice the amount of heat to get rid. The body is GRP and not that good at heat dissapation so the engines do get quite warm.

Use mineral oil if you want but be prepared to check it and change it frequently.

shpub

8,507 posts

301 months

Wednesday 19th May 2004
quotequote all
Fly Fifer said:
Geez,


Would this affect performance or "just" knacker the engine?

The sludge knackers the engine as it is not that good a lubricant. To be honest, give the car some TLC right now and don't do it again otherwise the TVR Police will have to confiscate the car.

STP is a waste of money. Better off putting it towards a catch up service.

chim500nj

Original Poster:

394 posts

270 months

Wednesday 19th May 2004
quotequote all
Thanks guys for all the comments and advice...

ricardinho

540 posts

291 months

Wednesday 19th May 2004
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Hey Fly Fifer!

Don't go damaging the residuals on 1998 Halcyon Atlantis Chimaera 450's bought in March 2004, will yer?

My profile.

Lovely car

Richard