High Milage E46 M3 - Pottential problems ?
High Milage E46 M3 - Pottential problems ?
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rev-erend

Original Poster:

21,605 posts

308 months

Thursday 12th May 2011
quotequote all
Hi All,

I'm thinking of selling my Focus RS (2009) and getting a High Milage (100,000 plus) E46 M3 with manual box.

Can any tell me if there are lots of pottential problems other than wear and tear items like tyres, brakes and servicing.


Slurms

1,254 posts

228 months

Thursday 12th May 2011
quotequote all
Not really... Wear and tear on suspension and brakes is the biggest cost at this kind of mileage.


mat205125

17,790 posts

237 months

Thursday 12th May 2011
quotequote all
Buy on condition and history rather than solely on mileage.


rev-erend

Original Poster:

21,605 posts

308 months

Thursday 12th May 2011
quotequote all
I'm really after confirmation that it's not going to be like a TVR 6 cylinder - giving you the daily worry that the engine will cost loads to fix.

mat205125

17,790 posts

237 months

Thursday 12th May 2011
quotequote all
rev-erend said:
I'm really after confirmation that it's not going to be like a TVR 6 cylinder - giving you the daily worry that the engine will cost loads to fix.
Not if it has been, and continues to be, properly serviced and well treated.

JimboM3

291 posts

234 months

Thursday 12th May 2011
quotequote all
3.5 years into owning mine from 40K to 110K miles and I would echo the above. Rear springs and suspension are worth a close look (mine has pretty much had the lot replaced) and been through 2 sets of rear springs in that time. Not disastrously expensive to sort out at an indie. Engine seems bulletproof.

Only other niggles I have had with mine are corroded alloys (result of previous repair), interior door trim pulling away (right bugger to fix) and paint lifting on the drivers wing mirror base (still trying to find a replacement BTW if anyone know where to get one!).

Don't get too worried though they are a great little car and is currently prooving very difficult to find a replacement for!

But definitely find a good indie garage.

Jim

rev-erend

Original Poster:

21,605 posts

308 months

Thursday 12th May 2011
quotequote all
Great.

So, is it top and bottom bushes ?

And I think I remember that the rear springs break ?

E30M3SE

8,486 posts

220 months

Thursday 12th May 2011
quotequote all
A potential problem that is not unheard of is HG failure, normally between the bores due to their close proximitly, normally occurs above the 100K mark, earlier on cars that are tracked or not meticulously maintained.

Should it stop you buying one, no, just be aware it can, and does, happen.

darreni

4,374 posts

294 months

Thursday 12th May 2011
quotequote all
I've had mine for 5 years & its been 100%, though it has been pampered.

Avoid the bottom end of the market, there are loads bought by people without the means to look after them correctly.

Discs & pads are £1k
decent tyres are £1k a set
Big service due can easily be £1k+

Bear the above in mind if looking at a cheap one & thinking that a few quid will see it right.

Other things: rear springs, rear trailing arm bushes, diff, alternator, dampers, make sure the air con works, engine should not be overly noisty at idle, SMG can be clunky at slow speeds but should shift quickly & cleanly as speed increases.

BMW warranty well worth having if you can find one that still has it.

Mr Bimmer

283 posts

188 months

Thursday 12th May 2011
quotequote all
Don't forget to get the sub floor checked for cracks. BMW will foot the bill and fit a new floor if it's under 10 Years old, but bear it in mind for the future

shibby!

927 posts

222 months

Thursday 12th May 2011
quotequote all
I bought on condition and bought one at 94k with the big service just completed, and all new discs and pads.

Saw one at 54k and it was tatty.

Saw a few at 74k or so..... probably need new discs and pads and big service (depending on how been used) in near future. So sometimes might be more cost efficient to buy the one with higher mileage as it may have had all of these things replaced! smile

mat205125

17,790 posts

237 months

Thursday 12th May 2011
quotequote all
shibby! said:
Saw one at 54k and it was tatty.
yes

Before buying my 75k mile car, I saw a few "low mileage" offerings which showed signs of neglect. I'm over 105k miles now and kept up the maintenance. My car has proved strong and reliable, and is still fighting fit with little to indicate its total mileage.


rev-erend

Original Poster:

21,605 posts

308 months

Thursday 12th May 2011
quotequote all
E30M3SE said:
A potential problem that is not unheard of is HG failure, normally between the bores due to their close proximitly, normally occurs above the 100K
Yes - that is a problem on all straight sixes.

Saw it on Jags 20+ years ago.

Paddymcc

1,247 posts

215 months

Thursday 12th May 2011
quotequote all
As people have already mentioned there are the usual M3 consumables for high milers:

Rear springs
RTABs
Front wishbone/ball joint bush (£200 each on ebay Lemfoder)
Brake discs (think they were £500 when i got my set)

And you will probably want to make sure the diff oil has been changed when you get it as BMW released an additive for the diff oil. Costs about £90 from main dealer and stops the groaning.

Engine oil Castrol Sport Edge can be got from Opie oils cheap enough at around £50 for 6 litres.

They also like rear tyres and i used to stick Toyo T1Rs on mine at about £160 odd each last time i bought them from Camskill.

[edited for some bits i forgot]

Forgot to mention calipers like to stick on sometimes with grit on the roads etc which kills the discs. Caliper repair kits are around £14. Best to fire those in as well if your ever doing the discs and pads as the last thing you want is fitting new discs and then the caliper sticking and warping the new discs.

And lastly the seal on the diff begins to leak a little too. Nothing crazy like oil stains on the driveway but you will see the diff weeping slightly.

My M3 is on 97k miles at the mo. The only thing thats really failed on me were warped discs and the power steering pump, which was replaced under warranty a few years ago. Its starting to get a bit whiney again. SMG pump clutch etc have all been perfect touch wood!

Edited by Paddymcc on Friday 13th May 00:00

rev-erend

Original Poster:

21,605 posts

308 months

Thursday 12th May 2011
quotequote all
Thanks guys .. plenty to look out for there.

Mr Bimmer

283 posts

188 months

Friday 13th May 2011
quotequote all
Paddymcc said:
As people have already mentioned there are the usual M3 consumables for high milers:

Rear springs
RTABs
Front wishbone/ball joint bush (£200 each on ebay Lemfoder)
Brake discs (think they were £500 when i got my set)

And you will probably want to make sure the diff oil has been changed when you get it as BMW released an additive for the diff oil. Costs about £90 from main dealer and stops the groaning.

Engine oil Castrol Sport Edge can be got from Opie oils cheap enough at around £50 for 6 litres.

They also like rear tyres and i used to stick Toyo T1Rs on mine at about £160 odd each last time i bought them from Camskill.

[edited for some bits i forgot]

Forgot to mention calipers like to stick on sometimes with grit on the roads etc which kills the discs. Caliper repair kits are around £14. Best to fire those in as well if your ever doing the discs and pads as the last thing you want is fitting new discs and then the caliper sticking and warping the new discs.

And lastly the seal on the diff begins to leak a little too. Nothing crazy like oil stains on the driveway but you will see the diff weeping slightly.

My M3 is on 97k miles at the mo. The only thing thats really failed on me were warped discs and the power steering pump, which was replaced under warranty a few years ago. Its starting to get a bit whiney again. SMG pump clutch etc have all been perfect touch wood!

Edited by Paddymcc on Friday 13th May 00:00
All good points, but whatever you do, DONT use Castrol Edge sport! it must be either Castrol Edge 10w60 or Castrol TWS 10w60.

M3 discs don't warp. It's usually down to bad fitting with grit between the mating faces or pad build up from cooked pads.

shim

2,051 posts

232 months

Friday 13th May 2011
quotequote all
Mr Bimmer said:
All good points, but whatever you do, DONT use Castrol Edge sport! it must be either Castrol Edge 10w60 or Castrol TWS 10w60.

M3 discs don't warp. It's usually down to bad fitting with grit between the mating faces or pad build up from cooked pads.
100%correct

Also main big issue problems for high mile m3 are

1. alternator failure
2. head gasket failure
3. Worse case bottom end failure (shell) but MOT very likely unless oil issues