T350 as a daily driver...
Discussion
Using it as a daily driver is fine, in fact they seem to be all the more reliable for it. I've also come from the Elise (had it for 5 years and was also my daily drive for a while) and find the T350 easier to drive, more comfortable and definitely more practical. It's a more relaxed drive, other than the fuel bills (expect mid 20's) the torque is the biggest difference to me, no need to race through the gears to make progress although if you rev it it will blow almost anything out of the water. I've never tracked it (used to regularly spank the Elise round Oulton) so can't comment on that. They are awesome. Sound is something else. Also don't expect it to handle anything like the Elise, even if like mine it is set up on nitrons. Incidentally it you want a 4.3 mines in the classifieds as I'm going to work part time this winter.
nrick said:
Upside is the service schedule is 6k between services and a few niggles.
Not quite sure how that's an upside, don't want to put you off but compared to the TVR the Elise costs pennies to run, generally speaking servicing the speed six isn't cheap with intervals of 6k and a 'big' service at 12k. Niggle wise if you get a good one there shouldn't be too many problems. As I say regular use seems to be of benefit.I'm sure that the more that you use them, then the better they are. A couple of considerations, both of which are covered on threads elsewhere for sure:
>> They do cost more than a few bob to run. I've spent over £5k in the last 8 months which is more than I'd hoped and certainly more than on the T350c I had for it's first 2 years. I'm up to 30,000 miles and have had new front discs, new clutch & flywheel, new diff and new throttle assemblies. All proper work at dealer prices.
>> The SP6 does take a long time to warm up and you mustn't exceed 3000 rpm until the oil is over 30C. On many mornings I have to stop in a lay-by to allow the engine to heat up as at 70mph it won't!
I'd say that it depends on what sort of trips you would be making every day. Probably the further the better! Hope this helps.
>> They do cost more than a few bob to run. I've spent over £5k in the last 8 months which is more than I'd hoped and certainly more than on the T350c I had for it's first 2 years. I'm up to 30,000 miles and have had new front discs, new clutch & flywheel, new diff and new throttle assemblies. All proper work at dealer prices.
>> The SP6 does take a long time to warm up and you mustn't exceed 3000 rpm until the oil is over 30C. On many mornings I have to stop in a lay-by to allow the engine to heat up as at 70mph it won't!
I'd say that it depends on what sort of trips you would be making every day. Probably the further the better! Hope this helps.
Yee haa! said:
Not quite sure how that's an upside, don't want to put you off but compared to the TVR the Elise costs pennies to run, generally speaking servicing the speed six isn't cheap with intervals of 6k and a 'big' service at 12k. Niggle wise if you get a good one there shouldn't be too many problems. As I say regular use seems to be of benefit.
Meant downside 
NailedOn said:
>> The SP6 does take a long time to warm up and you mustn't exceed 3000 rpm until the oil is over 30C. On many mornings I have to stop in a lay-by to allow the engine to heat up as at 70mph it won't!
Yes it will, it is just the oil temp sender which is sending a lower reading in very cold weather. All those explosions in the engine are warming the oil and coolant nicely.Used my sag as a daily for a long time, and it is true the more I used it, the better it got. The first few months were filled with bills, but once it was being used regularly it settled down with no great issues for the following year. Had an exige s before, the sag was MUCH more expensive to run, but recently I got into an exige s pp and it really didn't cut the mustard for me. I've sold the sag this week, to raise funds for business but seriously tempted to cancel the new espirit order and buy another one when I can!
Ironballs said:
...and I'm sure you meant 60-65C and not 30
The workshop manual quotes these max RPM at oil temperatures:2500 <40C
3000 <50C
4000 <60C
My dealer advised 3000 max until <30C. I always stick to the 2500 just to be sure.
But the question now is what is the true reading on a cold morning?
NailedOn said:
The workshop manual quotes these max RPM at oil temperatures:
2500 <40C
3000 <50C
4000 <60C
My dealer advised 3000 max until <30C. I always stick to the 2500 just to be sure.
But the question now is what is the true reading on a cold morning?
I believe the warm up procedure is to allow the cast crank to expand and close up the working tolerances, which are too large for high RPM's when cold, as there is a fair bit of crank flex when using higher RPM's. Too much flex could result in crank to bearing contact...2500 <40C
3000 <50C
4000 <60C
My dealer advised 3000 max until <30C. I always stick to the 2500 just to be sure.
But the question now is what is the true reading on a cold morning?
This issue is significantly reduced with Steel cranks, which do not expand as much, can run at much closer tolerances as a result and do not flex as much as cast cranks at higher RPM's
NailedOn said:
The workshop manual quotes these max RPM at oil temperatures:
2500 <40C
3000 <50C
4000 <60C
My dealer advised 3000 max until <30C. I always stick to the 2500 just to be sure.
But the question now is what is the true reading on a cold morning?
If you have a lot of hills to climb at the start of your journey, do you have to reduce your speed and use a lower gear to avoid exceeding the advised RPMs and labouring the engine (I assume using more throttle in a higher gear is a big no no during the warm up too)?2500 <40C
3000 <50C
4000 <60C
My dealer advised 3000 max until <30C. I always stick to the 2500 just to be sure.
But the question now is what is the true reading on a cold morning?
gordonsalive said:
Do power put in steel cranks as part of their rebuild?
The 4.3 & 4.5 TVR Power upgrades get steel cranks and steel con rods (which are lighter and stronger). That is one of the reasons why everybody comments about how smooth they feel, despite the fact that they have a longer stroke...A standard rebuild does not include an upgrade from a cast crank to a steel crank...A steel crank cost £1,500 upwards so you will know if you have paid for one...and the same again for steel con rods
I have gone for an upgraded 4.0S from str8six which has been fitted with a steel crank and rods and it feels turbine smooth and you get more power because of lower reciprocating masses (lighter con rods, especially the little ends, more info in: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... Craft Con Rods and Pistons)...they were good for 8,000 plus RPM at Le Mans with similar specced components.
Platinum said:
If you have a lot of hills to climb at the start of your journey, do you have to reduce your speed and use a lower gear to avoid exceeding the advised RPMs and labouring the engine (I assume using more throttle in a higher gear is a big no no during the warm up too)?
I think the general rule is be gentle with the engine when it is cold..Stick to TVR's guidelines, and don't use a heavy throttle..
As long as you don't floor it from cold (especially on winter mornings) and rev it to the ceiling you will be OK..my car has had a number of owners and has done over 40,000 miles and the bearings were fine..
I would suspect the most damage is inflicted by people who never read forums like this and never open the owners manual...
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