Come on then...exhaust manifold tips
Come on then...exhaust manifold tips
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MrMCI

Original Poster:

153 posts

186 months

Tuesday 17th May 2011
quotequote all
Alright then guys, what is the secret tip for tightening all of the exhaust manifold bolts? Do you need specially modified/purchased spanners for each one?

Hope everyone and their cars are doing well, Mark

carsy

3,019 posts

194 months

Tuesday 17th May 2011
quotequote all
Some of them are tight to get to. If they are coming loose as they are prone to, re fit them with some nordlock washers. No more working loose. I would also copper slip the bolts as well to prevent any siezing in the future.

Pupp

12,948 posts

301 months

Tuesday 17th May 2011
quotequote all
If you still have the oem fasteners, it will be much easier from underneath and possibly with the starter off. A variety of spanners with diffent jaw angles helps.

No brainer to invest in ARP stainless smaller headed replacements with Nordlok washers for next time if/when you go to the bother. While at it, slotting the bottom manifold holes so they can be dropped over inserted fasteners makes things much better too.


roseytvr

1,790 posts

207 months

Tuesday 17th May 2011
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Mark
For a first timer I would get it up on ramps, take off the exhaust and remove the starter motor - much easier with that out of the way. I used three different spanners to get on my originals including one I had to grind down. as mentioned, unless already fitted order your ARP bolts now, makes the job much easier. I have still got the spanners - how close to Burton on Trent are you?

Pupp

12,948 posts

301 months

Tuesday 17th May 2011
quotequote all
My rear lowers are prone to backing off, even with nordloks - wiring was the next step when I can be bothered to drill them

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Tuesday 17th May 2011
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Quinny said:
ARP's already fitted, and with new spring washerssmile

Mark, get yourself a selection of 3/8 spanners, open enders, ring, and ratchet...... Be prepared to bend em or cut them down....

I'll lay odds it's the ones at the back on the drivers side..... (you're using it to much it's not used to it) hehe


A little tale..... My mate Graham has always had problems with his rear manifold bolts coming loose, he too fitted the ARP's which improved things, but still didn't cure it....

Then my friend Spend, sent me some very special bolts, that can be cleverly wired...... We fitted some last year just to the bolts causing issues....... He's had no trouble since.....very very simple, and very effective....

I have loads of them left over, as Spend sent far to many....... Would you like them??

Again it just shows how different these cars are...... Ash's car with well over 100k is still using original bolts, and he has no trouble at all...smile

Good job really as he's bloody useless with a spannerhehe
You were supposed to fit them in sets you plodder!!!!!!

Studs on the bottom & the socket+hex's on the top (which match the drilled & wired versions), I do them in horizontal pairs that way instead of per port ~ the fine thread studs have no problems loosening (the locking with extra 16pt thin nuts is just to prevent rust...)

Hoover.

5,993 posts

271 months

Tuesday 17th May 2011
quotequote all
is there norlock washers should be used smile

MrMCI

Original Poster:

153 posts

186 months

Wednesday 18th May 2011
quotequote all
Thanks Chaps, I am very glad that I bought a Griff! the help of others it much easier than learning it all for yourself every time.

I guess it is a hard weekend with a range of spanners then! I have had a look around and only one had worked loose, as Quinny guessed drivers side bank, top rear (I wonder why it is always those ones).