anyone used the honecomb gravel/pea shingle for a driveway
Discussion
hi i have a tarmac driveway and was looking at prices on getting it hot tar and gravel in its place i also have some grass in front of a bay window that i was going to dig out put some type 1 down and then gravel on top, was going to edge it with some brick pavers.
over the tarmac i was thinking of using these type of things....
http://www.stabledrive.co.uk/?gclid=CISLyeHk_qgCFQ...
http://69.89.233.136/stabledrive/Images/installati...
sound too good to be true, are they?
also as the driveway will be higher than the path out the front, i need something to keep the trays on the driveway so will have to find a sloping kerbstone so it doesnt look too out of place bearing in mind it will be 40mm higher than the pavement.

over the tarmac i was thinking of using these type of things....
http://www.stabledrive.co.uk/?gclid=CISLyeHk_qgCFQ...
http://69.89.233.136/stabledrive/Images/installati...
sound too good to be true, are they?
also as the driveway will be higher than the path out the front, i need something to keep the trays on the driveway so will have to find a sloping kerbstone so it doesnt look too out of place bearing in mind it will be 40mm higher than the pavement.
Edited by stolt on Monday 23 May 20:23
Edited by stolt on Monday 23 May 23:14
To me all looks fine! Looks like a tidy piece of Tarmac and some nice greenery to aid drainage. Going higher than the front footpath would look odd to me too. And I've never seen that system to hold gravel so cannot comment upon it's longevity or utility. I'd leave it as it is and spend my money on car related items! 

cheers, yeah its not in bad condition, its just imo doesnt really look very nice, the grass area is where i park the other car so needs something done to it to tbh.
had block paving in the previous house and wasnt overly impressed with it either.
but i have heard that shingle can cause lots of issues, plus we have amitco on the floor and dont wat the little stones caught in peoples shoes and scratching the floor.
thanks
had block paving in the previous house and wasnt overly impressed with it either.
but i have heard that shingle can cause lots of issues, plus we have amitco on the floor and dont wat the little stones caught in peoples shoes and scratching the floor.
thanks
stolt said:
...the grass area is where i park the other car so needs something done to it to tbh.
Remember, 5m2 is max you can now pave over a previous porous surface (your grass!) if you don't use porous materials, or bigger if you ensure no water will now drain onto the pavements or roads outside your house; new surface flooding regs.I was going to lay down the honeycomb. I have seen it in place and it really is a great idea. It goes solid unlike normal gravel. The thing is there is a maximum size of gravel you can use. The good lady went with the block though. The ground is prepared in the same way you would lay monoblock. The honeycomb takes the blocks place.
Just finished building my house and predictably had pretty much run out of cash at the end so my idea of a block driveway went out the window. Instead I used the honeycomb sheets (Cedagravel) with a small pebble decorative gravel and I am really please with results. It's really easy to walk on and the car sits on top of the gravel rather than digging in. The stuff I bought also has a sheet of weed barrier attached on the bottom. Its not cheap though - I think I paid about 40.00 a sheet which adds up over a large area! I used rumbled cobbles for a 1.5m lead into the drive to stop the gravel spreading (and take in a inspection chamber) out onto the street which looks good and works well
tim0409 said:
Just finished building my house and predictably had pretty much run out of cash at the end so my idea of a block driveway went out the window. Instead I used the honeycomb sheets (Cedagravel) with a small pebble decorative gravel and I am really please with results. It's really easy to walk on and the car sits on top of the gravel rather than digging in. The stuff I bought also has a sheet of weed barrier attached on the bottom. Its not cheap though - I think I paid about 40.00 a sheet which adds up over a large area! I used rumbled cobbles for a 1.5m lead into the drive to stop the gravel spreading (and take in a inspection chamber) out onto the street which looks good and works well
good to see people using it, got a price from a builder today £75 m2 for lifting the old tarmac!!!!starting to think i could hire the equipment and take the tarmac up myself, lay down the type 1 and then some gravel. I looked at the cedagravel last night, must admit i looked at about 20 sites and in the end cant remember which looked better etc
i dont suppose you could post up some pics of what yours looks like.
My advice for what it's worth:
On the bituminous macadam area apply a 6mm resin bound rounded gravel such as:
http://www.sureset.co.uk/
On the grassed area apply the plastic cell system on top of 150mm type 1 subbase on a Terram membrane (to suppress weeds) and fill with an 18mm angular gravel to contrast with the resin bound. The area should be excavated to the depth required prior to installation and a treated timber or aluminium edging fitted to the perimeter for a proper job.
On the bituminous macadam area apply a 6mm resin bound rounded gravel such as:
http://www.sureset.co.uk/
On the grassed area apply the plastic cell system on top of 150mm type 1 subbase on a Terram membrane (to suppress weeds) and fill with an 18mm angular gravel to contrast with the resin bound. The area should be excavated to the depth required prior to installation and a treated timber or aluminium edging fitted to the perimeter for a proper job.
Edited by ATTAK Z on Wednesday 25th May 21:47
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