Discussion
from Euro car parts Bought mine last week from here. Excellent service, I actually got delivered an identical one to the one already on my Griff. ie black and same size etc as the official Land Rover part. Incidently the local Landrover stealer wanted £350 for a new starter or £119 for just the solenoid!!! 
http://www.brookwell.co.uk/item/243/replacement-st...
Very pleased with this one, spins fast and sounds much smoother than my original.
Made a heatshield from some B&Q ali sheet to protect the poor little thing!
http://www.brookwell.co.uk/item/243/replacement-st...
Very pleased with this one, spins fast and sounds much smoother than my original.
Made a heatshield from some B&Q ali sheet to protect the poor little thing!
steve-V8s said:
Anybody tried one of the Light weight high torque ones that are about ?
Yep me, I recently fitted a PowerLite one on my Chim.
Boy this starter has some grunt.
Turns the engine over very fast for almost instant starts every time.
The only thing I would say is that you need to replace the standard lower alan caphead bolt with a normal bolt as the PowerLite motor doesn't allow clearance for an alan key or socket bit.
With a normal bolt you have plenty of space to tighten it from below using a regular open ended spanner.
If you want one, call PowerLite direct and tell them two other TVR owners just paid a special price of £150.00 including postage and they should give you the same deal.
http://www.powerlite-units.com/starter.htm
Worked for my mate JonnyTVR.
Edited by Chimpafrolic on Tuesday 24th May 14:13
Very easy with the use of a ramp,disconnect battery positive lead,unbolt two battery(thick red)leads from the starter,disconnect starter solenoid lead, undo the two starter motor allen key bolts & shes out 
Without a ramp it can still be done but you will need to either jack the front up very high or tilt the o/s of the car to give you clearance. I have tried the drive up ramps that most accessory shops sell but found the ramp body partially restricted access.
Bodders
Without a ramp it can still be done but you will need to either jack the front up very high or tilt the o/s of the car to give you clearance. I have tried the drive up ramps that most accessory shops sell but found the ramp body partially restricted access.
Bodders
Edited by Bodmin on Thursday 26th May 19:38
Thanks for the Powerlite suggestion. I called them yesterday and it arrived today as promised. Not a massive weight saving on the one that came out, it is about 750g lighter which is better than nothing I suppose. As you say it needs a hex headed bolt on the lower fixing there is no way you could get at the original Cap headed one.
As an experiment I tried connecting a battery which previously wouldn’t turn the engine over and it started no problem. With a fully charged battery it turns over at an incredible rate. The slotted hole on the lower fitting is a good idea, not entirely comfortable however with the exposed terminal on the side. I can see at some point I will drop a spanner down onto it and there will be a bonfire. It needs some sort of insulation boot or perhaps a bit of silicone on it. As long as it lasts it is a good alternative to paying twice the money for a lethargic original one.
Just did it on a couple of Axle stands, took about 45mins.
As an experiment I tried connecting a battery which previously wouldn’t turn the engine over and it started no problem. With a fully charged battery it turns over at an incredible rate. The slotted hole on the lower fitting is a good idea, not entirely comfortable however with the exposed terminal on the side. I can see at some point I will drop a spanner down onto it and there will be a bonfire. It needs some sort of insulation boot or perhaps a bit of silicone on it. As long as it lasts it is a good alternative to paying twice the money for a lethargic original one.
Just did it on a couple of Axle stands, took about 45mins.
Bodmin said:
Very easy with the use of a ramp,disconnect battery positive lead,unbolt two battery(thick red)leads from the starter,disconnect starter solenoid lead, undo the two starter motor allen key bolts & shes out
Without a ramp it can still be done but you will need to either jack the front up very high or tilt the o/s of the car to give you clearance. I have tried the drive up ramps that most accessory shops sell but found the ramp body partially restricted access.
Bodders
Thanks for the advice Bodders I might see how much my local garage want to fit a new one in that case.Without a ramp it can still be done but you will need to either jack the front up very high or tilt the o/s of the car to give you clearance. I have tried the drive up ramps that most accessory shops sell but found the ramp body partially restricted access.
Bodders
Edited by Bodmin on Thursday 26th May 19:38
I can see it would be challenging on a pair of ramps because as you say they would get in the way. Stick it on axle stands and get the front wheel off. In terms of tools you will need an 8mm Allen driver to fit on the end of a very long socket extension to get at the top fixing. The cable stud is 13mm.
steve-V8s said:
Thanks for the Powerlite suggestion. I called them yesterday and it arrived today as promised. Not a massive weight saving on the one that came out, it is about 750g lighter which is better than nothing I suppose. As you say it needs a hex headed bolt on the lower fixing there is no way you could get at the original Cap headed one.
As an experiment I tried connecting a battery which previously wouldn’t turn the engine over and it started no problem. With a fully charged battery it turns over at an incredible rate. The slotted hole on the lower fitting is a good idea, not entirely comfortable however with the exposed terminal on the side. I can see at some point I will drop a spanner down onto it and there will be a bonfire. It needs some sort of insulation boot or perhaps a bit of silicone on it. As long as it lasts it is a good alternative to paying twice the money for a lethargic original one.
Just did it on a couple of Axle stands, took about 45mins.
Nothing more frustrating than a TVR that wont start As an experiment I tried connecting a battery which previously wouldn’t turn the engine over and it started no problem. With a fully charged battery it turns over at an incredible rate. The slotted hole on the lower fitting is a good idea, not entirely comfortable however with the exposed terminal on the side. I can see at some point I will drop a spanner down onto it and there will be a bonfire. It needs some sort of insulation boot or perhaps a bit of silicone on it. As long as it lasts it is a good alternative to paying twice the money for a lethargic original one.
Just did it on a couple of Axle stands, took about 45mins.
Glad I could help & you got it sorted
Has anyone fitted the Racing Green Hi-Torque starter motor:
http://www.thetvrshop.com/TVR/Parts_details/TVR%20...
The description seems to suggest that it has been designed specifically for Griffs / Chims.
http://www.thetvrshop.com/TVR/Parts_details/TVR%20...
The description seems to suggest that it has been designed specifically for Griffs / Chims.
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