Bonnet Catches
Discussion
Hi,
Are there any uprated options for the standard bonnet catches? By this I mean the nylon things that break periodically, I've had several go over the years, so more of the same may not be the answer. I've seen some people have used aerocatches and they look ok, I was wondering if something could be done with the standard setup before I start cutting holes in the bonnet.
Thanks,
Simon
Are there any uprated options for the standard bonnet catches? By this I mean the nylon things that break periodically, I've had several go over the years, so more of the same may not be the answer. I've seen some people have used aerocatches and they look ok, I was wondering if something could be done with the standard setup before I start cutting holes in the bonnet.
Thanks,
Simon
There is one option with the standard catches. It involves a couple of bricks and tends to restrict forward visibility.
Jokes aside, the aero catches are also available in flush fitting and come in primer so they can be body coloured and almost invisible. They really do fix the problem once and for all.
Jokes aside, the aero catches are also available in flush fitting and come in primer so they can be body coloured and almost invisible. They really do fix the problem once and for all.
On my car the two aluminum tubes broke on the outer winding. I cutted the tube behind the winding and replaced it with a 6 cm aluminum M8 bolt on which I peeled of 3 cm of the winding so that this part fits into the shortened tube. Tube and screw were sticked together with two-component adhesive.
Everything adjusted properly and no trouble ever since!
Everything adjusted properly and no trouble ever since!
Have a close look underneath the tray to the window. The rods, with the plastic things on the ends, sit in two clips which are tucked under the tray and out of normal sight.
It is very common for the adjustment on the knob under the dash to be such that overtightening causes the rod to bend and jump out of one of the clips.
If it does this the bonnet will still lock closed but the rattling of the unsupported rod will often work the catch loose at speed.
It is very common for the adjustment on the knob under the dash to be such that overtightening causes the rod to bend and jump out of one of the clips.
If it does this the bonnet will still lock closed but the rattling of the unsupported rod will often work the catch loose at speed.
Just a word of caurion on the aero catches - I've seen a nice case where a club member (over on the mazda rotary forums) had a total failure of the bonnet material around the catch at motorway speeds.
The amount of material joining the catch to the bonnet isn't huge and, in his case, fatigued over a relatively short period of time.
It'll depend largely on the strength and construction of teh Cerbie bonnet and care take during fitting not to weaken the bonnet too much.
The amount of material joining the catch to the bonnet isn't huge and, in his case, fatigued over a relatively short period of time.
It'll depend largely on the strength and construction of teh Cerbie bonnet and care take during fitting not to weaken the bonnet too much.
the mrs arm out the window would only result in a strange whining noise from the passenger side! Y194 ODX said:
On my car the two aluminum tubes broke on the outer winding. I cutted the tube behind the winding and replaced it with a 6 cm aluminum M8 bolt on which I peeled of 3 cm of the winding so that this part fits into the shortened tube. Tube and screw were sticked together with two-component adhesive.
Everything adjusted properly and no trouble ever since!
Nice reply Ulf,Everything adjusted properly and no trouble ever since!
Mine have also gone on the aluminium push-rod, rather than the plastic end. Will have a look to see if I can perform this. At the moment I have a triangle-section bar splinted into the two halves which appears (16,000 miles) to be taking the strain.
Thanks for the Tip !
Mr Cerbera said:
Nice reply Ulf,
Mine have also gone on the aluminium push-rod, rather than the plastic end. Will have a look to see if I can perform this. At the moment I have a triangle-section bar splinted into the two halves which appears (16,000 miles) to be taking the strain.
Thanks for the Tip !
I clamped the bolt in a drill and removed the material carefully with an angle grinder while turning the drill at mid speed.Mine have also gone on the aluminium push-rod, rather than the plastic end. Will have a look to see if I can perform this. At the moment I have a triangle-section bar splinted into the two halves which appears (16,000 miles) to be taking the strain.
Thanks for the Tip !
That gave a perfect result!
Good Luck!
One more post, I rarely ever lock my bonnet, and on a recent trip around a private airfield where I was touching 150mph there was no sign of my bonnet comming up.
Not sure its such a great idea that a catch has to withstand a massive bubble of air pressure building up around the engine. The catch is only about a cm free on each side and a small amount of flex in the centre of the bonnet is enough to free even the best locked catch.
Have you got the spoiler underneath the nose. I always thought that was responsible for creating a vaccuum in the engine bay. That and making sure the air intake pipes and airboxes are actually sealed in the engine bay and not just pushed on.
Not sure its such a great idea that a catch has to withstand a massive bubble of air pressure building up around the engine. The catch is only about a cm free on each side and a small amount of flex in the centre of the bonnet is enough to free even the best locked catch.
Have you got the spoiler underneath the nose. I always thought that was responsible for creating a vaccuum in the engine bay. That and making sure the air intake pipes and airboxes are actually sealed in the engine bay and not just pushed on.
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