3-2-1..Ignition..I said ignition..Bah

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Peeps..I went out to try to check my timing this morning and the car wont even start now..The starter motor isnt making a single click or anything even with a fully charged battery which is making me wonder if the ignition switch is naff..I did read that the switch can give symptoms to whats been happening to me just recently..So does anyone know a way of checking this or where i can get the ignition barrel..I have found the wiring part (lucas) which seems to be a triumph part but cannot find the barrel..Cheers..ziga

[woodycctv]

Hi Mark
I fitted one to mine. TR7, if I remember correctly its the early one.
Cheers
Mark

[mrzigazaga]

Cheers mate..Will look through the rimmerbros catalogue..Can anyone tell me if the barrel could fail or just the electrical fitting..Cheers..Ziga

[honestjohntoo]

mrzigazaga said:

The starter motor isnt making a single click or anything even with a fully charged battery which is making me wonder if the ignition switch is naff.

With the switch in the off position, connect a voltmeter to the White/Red wire on the connector block at the end of the switch and try to start the engine. Your starter circuit will be similar to this.



If you get 12 volts on the White/Red Wire then the switch is likely, NOT faulty.

Only need to change switch parts if its duff.

If you do get 12 volts then move along the circuit (via the inhibit switch if there is one) to the starter relay (85) and measure again, if you dont get 12 volts there there is a loom connection problem.

If you do get 12 volts then the starter relay should be quietly clicking.

If not clicking check for corrosion in the relay base.

If it does click the relay may be burned out, but you should get 12 volts on the 87 connection.

You can continue around the circuit checking voltages on the Brown wire into the relay coil on 30/51 and the White/Brown wire going to the solenoid.

If you do get voltage at the solenoid on the White/Brown wire and the solenoid does not energise with a loud click, the solenoid is faulty.

[mrzigazaga]

Thanks honestjohntoo..At the moment though i dont have a voltmeter..but will borrow one later and give it a go..( Or get a lift to maplins tomorrow and buy one)..Cheers..Ziga

[honestjohntoo]

Dont really need a voltmeter, just use a spare 12 volt bulb like this headlamp bulb with tags, with a couple of flying leads attached.



If the bulb lights up you have good voltage.

Mind your fingers tho' they get hot.

[mrzigazaga]

Cheers..I do have a spare bulb..Do i connect a wire to one of the terminals of the bulb and then one to the red/white wire on the ignition switch?..I suspect i will need to earth it out Y/N?..Zig

[honestjohntoo]

From either bulb terminal a wire goes to earth.

Make up a convenient probe using a kebab stick and a paperclip fixed to the end with insulating tape..

Connect the other bulb terminal to the paperclip and probe for voltages as described previously.

You can even buy a test lamp.

[mrzigazaga]

Cheers for that..Will give it a go ..Ziga

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Peeps..Just received my so called new distributor and on close inspection i noticed that the wire sleeves are split..I think its where its been in the box and the wire has fatigued..

I have some electrical black tac insulator that i will whack in there..Cheers..Ziga

Edited by mrzigazaga on Wednesday 1st June 10:34

[wooly350i]

Id have sent the bugger back zig, all too often these days we pay for good stuff and get absolute tack.
But saying that i got excellent service from two guys called
Moosa and Mohammed from Pier parts in London when they supplied me a Toyota head for 300quid from south Africa and Toyota wanted over 1000,and the old girl is running perfectly.

[mrzigazaga]

Cheers mate..I have used a bit of the black tac that i have just to protect the wire from the elements as its the low tension circuit and it shouldnt short or arc out...Tested my ignition as suggested by honestjohntoo and have a live feed when key is in crank position so i can rule out the ignition switch even though ive ordered a new one ..I think the starter is caput..The other day there was a small puff of smoke that came up from that region and now it wont even make a noise..I was going to arc it across to see if it starts but its too much grief doing it in the street so im going to have to get it to the ford garage and let him have a look..Im getting peed off with it again and the petrol can and match are starting to look very tempting ..

[Wedg1e]

You can strip and clean the starter solenoid on the side of the motor; there's a how-to picture show on here somewhere... admittedly for the V8 but starter motors are much of a muchness.

ETA: here...

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Edited by Wedg1e on Wednesday 1st June 13:45

[mrzigazaga]

Yeah i have seen that thanks ian but my back hurts through leaning in the engine bay and scunching under the dash to get at bits..The car is also on a fairly large camber in the road and its the side i need to get at and i cant get the jack under it or move it as its tight against the curb..I know excuses..excuses but its true..Might have a go at it if the garage has a secondhand one and i can strip my one down..Cheers..Ziga

[adam quantrill]

Check the relays first - if there isn't even a click from where they are then I would suspect the starter relay is duff/loose contacts.

Before stripping the solenoid check the wire going to it from the starter relay. On V8's it's red/white, dunno about V6's. This is a thick wire as the solenoid alone takes 10A and it's vulnerable to going open circuit running near to the exhaust.

[grahamw48]

I agree.
Check all connections to starter first, plus EARTHS.

Ford starters are usually pretty simple to take off.

Then just test it on the ground by running jump leads from the battery (If it runs, but slowly, give it and the attached solenoid a good clean and try again).