Discussion
Easiest is probably to whip the starter off, this will give you access to the ring gear which you should be able to block with a long lever whilst undoing the crank pulley.
In terms of the "safe position", I'd find TDC with the cams still attached to the crank, then remove the chain and position the cams in the safe position given in the rebuild manual.
In terms of the "safe position", I'd find TDC with the cams still attached to the crank, then remove the chain and position the cams in the safe position given in the rebuild manual.
The Crank Bolt hasn't given it up yet, but the battery is flat. I'll try again tomorrow. This is definitely my preferred method, as one of only two things will happen: the bolt will undo, or the ratchet in the wrench will give way. It's like a fuse, admittedly one that costs £15 from Argos, but worth it.
Let me tell you the answer, the ratchet will give way!!
Do you not have a breaker car? If not, you need one, plus probably a length of scaffolding, to get the crank bolt out. If you do manage to get it out with a foot long ratchet then I'd be worried about how well it was held in there in the first place.
On mine, with a impact socket, a breaker bar and a metre long length of scaffolding pole to give extra leverage I couldn't get it undone. It took a £65 450Nm electric impact wrench to undo it once the engine was out.
Do you not have a breaker car? If not, you need one, plus probably a length of scaffolding, to get the crank bolt out. If you do manage to get it out with a foot long ratchet then I'd be worried about how well it was held in there in the first place.
On mine, with a impact socket, a breaker bar and a metre long length of scaffolding pole to give extra leverage I couldn't get it undone. It took a £65 450Nm electric impact wrench to undo it once the engine was out.
Yes I have a breaker bar, but unless I make up some sort of plate and bolt it to the flywheel, then that's not going to help anyway.
I've used this method on crank bolts with a 250ft/lbs tightening spec, and it's worked on all but one occasion, when the ratchet broke. Any idea what the AJP torque spec is? The breaking torque will obviously be much more, but it's useful to know if I ever get to put it back...
I've used this method on crank bolts with a 250ft/lbs tightening spec, and it's worked on all but one occasion, when the ratchet broke. Any idea what the AJP torque spec is? The breaking torque will obviously be much more, but it's useful to know if I ever get to put it back...
ukkid35 said:
The Crank Bolt hasn't given it up yet, but the battery is flat. I'll try again tomorrow. This is definitely my preferred method, as one of only two things will happen: the bolt will undo, or the ratchet in the wrench will give way. It's like a fuse, admittedly one that costs £15 from Argos, but worth it.
That's a torque wrench. If you do that with it then I guarantee it'll never read anything like true again.My favoured method is breaker bar, long pole, in gear and someone sat with their foot on the brakes, personally. Only works if you remembered to do this while the gearbox is still hooked up, mind
ukkid35 said:
Yes I have a breaker bar, but unless I make up some sort of plate and bolt it to the flywheel, then that's not going to help anyway.
Huh? Just replace the wrench for the breaker bar? The breaker bar is far less likely to break, saving yourself the inevitable £15. By the way, popped into my local Halfords at the weekend and they had 50% off on half of their Professional range, well worth the initial outlay!I'm half tempted to ask whether you have a decent torque wrench for putting this engine back together, but I'm not sure I'll like the reply!
jammy_basturd said:
I'm half tempted to ask whether you have a decent torque wrench for putting this engine back together, but I'm not sure I'll like the reply!
That's a good question, and I reckon the most important bolts to get right are the head bolts - but how do you allow for the offset socket? If you torque them all to 80ft/lbs, then the inner ones will be tighter when using this special tool.
Depends on the angle between the centreline of the tool and the centreline of the torque wrench. I think I'm right in saying that if they are at right angles, the torque figure remains the same.
I would say both the cylinder head nuts and the crank bolt are the most important (before you start getting into the gubbins of the engine).
I would say both the cylinder head nuts and the crank bolt are the most important (before you start getting into the gubbins of the engine).
jammy_basturd said:
Depends on the angle between the centreline of the tool and the centreline of the torque wrench. I think I'm right in saying that if they are at right angles, the torque figure remains the same.
That makes perfect sense - many thanks.As for the crank bolt...
I hadn't even considered the possibility of a third outcome: even after 24hrs on charge, either the battery or the starter motor is on it's way out, because the both the bolt and the wrench are still intact.
The starter motor looks pretty new, so unless it's badly under spec, I guess it's the battery. Previously the engine would crank ok so I really am puzzled.
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