Just serviced / repaired my Talas forks..
Discussion
Digga said:
I love it when a DIY job comes together properly.
As in the case with my Xmas Hope hub re-build program.
And not in the case of my recent attempts to bleed Hope tech 2 brake levers. How on earth do the bike shop spannermen get the bled brakes to be so bang-tight?!
I used a car bleeding kit and LOTS of oil!As in the case with my Xmas Hope hub re-build program.
And not in the case of my recent attempts to bleed Hope tech 2 brake levers. How on earth do the bike shop spannermen get the bled brakes to be so bang-tight?!
Gooby said:
I used a car bleeding kit and LOTS of oil!
How much oil does it take to flush the air out then? I thought if you ran the stuff through - from brake lever, through hose, and hout of the caliper bleed nipple - that would flush the air. Am I wrong?I do possess a fancy pressurised Hope bleed bottle, but since it needs a car tyre to pressurise and I don't keep a car in my bike shed, it's not too useful.
Back O/T, I've watched the Fox fork "how to" videos and have promised myself that a re-oil for my 36 RLC will happen before winter. Did you change seals and use the kit from Fox/Mojo?
Digga said:
How much oil does it take to flush the air out then? I thought if you ran the stuff through - from brake lever, through hose, and hout of the caliper bleed nipple - that would flush the air. Am I wrong?
I do possess a fancy pressurised Hope bleed bottle, but since it needs a car tyre to pressurise and I don't keep a car in my bike shed, it's not too useful.
Back O/T, I've watched the Fox fork "how to" videos and have promised myself that a re-oil for my 36 RLC will happen before winter. Did you change seals and use the kit from Fox/Mojo?
If you make the reservoir on the brake lever level then you can better ensure you do not get air into the system. Put a small diameter hose of bleed kit on the bleed nipple to ensure that on the return stroke of the lever, no air is pulled into the system from the bottom. Once the hose at the bottom has a decent amount of oil in it then the return stroke can not ingest oil back in to the caliper.I do possess a fancy pressurised Hope bleed bottle, but since it needs a car tyre to pressurise and I don't keep a car in my bike shed, it's not too useful.
Back O/T, I've watched the Fox fork "how to" videos and have promised myself that a re-oil for my 36 RLC will happen before winter. Did you change seals and use the kit from Fox/Mojo?
Simply keep on pumping oil through the top reservoir ensuring it doesnt empty and suck air in, when it is bubble free and clean at the caliper, close the bleed nipple on a compression stroke and job done.
I sent off for the seals kit and various oils required. I have a 2010 Talas (FIT cartridge) and I realised that there are no instructions anyware on servicing these. I did find some good "general" vids on Youtube, including a mad welsh bloke with a big hammer.
BE AWARE - MOJO VIDEOS ARE OUT OF DATE.
I had a problem with my forks that they would not stay inflated unless they were over 150psi basically meaning I had a "hard nose Orange 5! - not fun. The reason was quite evident, the lower half of the air spring had filled with oil and a seal was poorly aligned. That amended and everything cleaned assembly was easier than expected. It took some time, I have not done this before so I took it slow and easy about 3-4 hours including clean up and lap of the park to test. I should point out that this was a complete disassembly - a service and seal change would be far quicker, I suspect the people saying 15 mins are stretching the truth a little. The biggest problem I had was how and where to re-fill the oil.
Beyond Rational said:
Every 30 hours (of riding, not real time!) for Fox Forks, which I find slightly insane.
I can't believe anyone does that, it's insane. I'm sure it'd just fox covering their backs, but it put me off buying their forks - and I'm very happy with my Revelations which need relatively little maintenance.swapping the oil is a genuine 15 minute job on the Revs, don't even need to let the air pressure out.
The Lyrik's that came on my bike (single air with rebound only) were fine but I read that it was an easy job to fit the mission control, so ordered them from the US (£100 cheaper than the UK...)
There are loads of on-line videos and write-ups to help, though the exploded diagram was just as useful.
Certainly seemed odd pulling a set of forks to bits that had done no more than a few hours work!
Still, changed the oil (needed more for the compression valving) and learnt where the spacer to make it 170mm is...
Always satisfying when you notice the difference and its not just in the weight of your wallet.
There are loads of on-line videos and write-ups to help, though the exploded diagram was just as useful.
Certainly seemed odd pulling a set of forks to bits that had done no more than a few hours work!
Still, changed the oil (needed more for the compression valving) and learnt where the spacer to make it 170mm is...
Always satisfying when you notice the difference and its not just in the weight of your wallet.
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