W124 TE Sunroof Replacment, Help Needed
Discussion
Hi,
I've removed the headlining on the car, and I need to fit a new tube that the cable slides into. Has anyone done the job before, I'm puzzling how to get the tube all connected up whilst holding the sunroof cassette without breaking anything. I've included a few pictures
Thanks
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I've removed the headlining on the car, and I need to fit a new tube that the cable slides into. Has anyone done the job before, I'm puzzling how to get the tube all connected up whilst holding the sunroof cassette without breaking anything. I've included a few pictures
Thanks
Edited by Karl Wiles on Monday 6th June 12:16
From memory the centre cable of the Bowden cable attaches to the sunroof slide. That's the first bit to understand
If you're just replacing the outer you'll need to disconnect the outer from the sunroof cassette. I would think then that the motor & tube can be drawn out via the tailgate opening once the retaining clips for the tube are removed
Your car doesn't have the additional seats in the boot. Removing the motor from a 7-seater is a real nightmare - on your car it'll just be difficult
You'll have to address why the tube failed. Normally it's because the slide is stiff and the force of the motor pushes the cable inner through the slot in the outer. It then jams. Check the lifting hinges on the cassette are OK and replace if necessary. Lubricate the whole thing. MB make a special lubricant for this job
While you have the headlining out consider replacing the cables through into the tailgate. On older cars they flex at the hinge & break causing intermittent electrical problems
Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
If you're just replacing the outer you'll need to disconnect the outer from the sunroof cassette. I would think then that the motor & tube can be drawn out via the tailgate opening once the retaining clips for the tube are removed
Your car doesn't have the additional seats in the boot. Removing the motor from a 7-seater is a real nightmare - on your car it'll just be difficult
You'll have to address why the tube failed. Normally it's because the slide is stiff and the force of the motor pushes the cable inner through the slot in the outer. It then jams. Check the lifting hinges on the cassette are OK and replace if necessary. Lubricate the whole thing. MB make a special lubricant for this job
While you have the headlining out consider replacing the cables through into the tailgate. On older cars they flex at the hinge & break causing intermittent electrical problems
Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
Edited by bolide on Monday 4th July 20:31
Hi Nick,
It's looking like the tube broke in the first place because the guide tube on the blind popped of and caused the tube to get bent. Mine is the 7 seater I removed the left belt to make access easier, and just loosened the right belt to make a repair to the trim. I removed the motor very easily I was surprised, the tube where the cable runs out into is still attached running under side window above the spare. The outer tube is attached to the tube that runs into the cassette they are not in two parts wish they were, because the old one was bent I just pulled it out. I've got a new tube from the dealer, and it's all one piece from the back of the motor, out of the hole at the bottom of the pillar and into the cassette to the back of opening. I'm tempted to cut the tube somewhere where it runs up the c-pillar, not sure about using a wide jubilee clip, of there was something I could use that was about 40mm wide it would act like a sleeve. You can see the hole just at the corner of the window that's where the tube comes out from the back of the motor. I've got a cable second hand too the outer casing had warn away on mine and it wasn't straight.
I've re-plumbed the rear washer and replaced a couple of wires that were starting to crack, they were the easy part lol
It's looking like the tube broke in the first place because the guide tube on the blind popped of and caused the tube to get bent. Mine is the 7 seater I removed the left belt to make access easier, and just loosened the right belt to make a repair to the trim. I removed the motor very easily I was surprised, the tube where the cable runs out into is still attached running under side window above the spare. The outer tube is attached to the tube that runs into the cassette they are not in two parts wish they were, because the old one was bent I just pulled it out. I've got a new tube from the dealer, and it's all one piece from the back of the motor, out of the hole at the bottom of the pillar and into the cassette to the back of opening. I'm tempted to cut the tube somewhere where it runs up the c-pillar, not sure about using a wide jubilee clip, of there was something I could use that was about 40mm wide it would act like a sleeve. You can see the hole just at the corner of the window that's where the tube comes out from the back of the motor. I've got a cable second hand too the outer casing had warn away on mine and it wasn't straight.
I've re-plumbed the rear washer and replaced a couple of wires that were starting to crack, they were the easy part lol
Edited by Karl Wiles on Monday 6th June 16:41
And I thought replacing the tailgate struts was a bad enough job - well done Karl.
In truth the struts can't be that hard - i'm in no way technical / hands on. I was chuffed I did it though and saved a chunk of money.
Almost as bad was getting in to the tailgate the other week to remove the internal securing nuts on the handle - to do a bit of rust removal. Why do they hide nuts and things in tiny recesses?
Never managed to get the bolts out of the number plate holder though - well and truly stuck.
In truth the struts can't be that hard - i'm in no way technical / hands on. I was chuffed I did it though and saved a chunk of money.
Almost as bad was getting in to the tailgate the other week to remove the internal securing nuts on the handle - to do a bit of rust removal. Why do they hide nuts and things in tiny recesses?
Never managed to get the bolts out of the number plate holder though - well and truly stuck.
I wouldn't cut the tube. A bowden cable uses inner & outer to work - it's a kind of lever so if you lose one part you have no levering action. Sure, you could join it but why make life more difficult?
I've never taken a motor off the tube so can't comment on that. I'd feed the tube up from the back, up the pillar and across to the cassette. How the end of the tube fixes to the cassette I don't know but you have the old one to refer to
You could pop a bit of sound-deadening on the roof while the headlining is out...
Nick Froome
I've never taken a motor off the tube so can't comment on that. I'd feed the tube up from the back, up the pillar and across to the cassette. How the end of the tube fixes to the cassette I don't know but you have the old one to refer to
You could pop a bit of sound-deadening on the roof while the headlining is out...
Nick Froome
Hi Nick,
A bit Sound Proofing's a good idea, I was having another look at it last night and I thought that if the cassette is lowered, and placed as far forward as possible I could insert the cable from the rear. Whilst a couple of people lift up the cassette I can try to push the tube into the rear quarter. If I was to cut the tube I would do it on the straight section after the bend when it leave the cassette, it would be sleeved by milling a slightly larger bit of tube and essentially being push fit.
I would think the main part of the tube not to bend at all goes into the cassette, and I could get away with a slight bit of bending to get the other end into the quarter panel.
A bit Sound Proofing's a good idea, I was having another look at it last night and I thought that if the cassette is lowered, and placed as far forward as possible I could insert the cable from the rear. Whilst a couple of people lift up the cassette I can try to push the tube into the rear quarter. If I was to cut the tube I would do it on the straight section after the bend when it leave the cassette, it would be sleeved by milling a slightly larger bit of tube and essentially being push fit.
I would think the main part of the tube not to bend at all goes into the cassette, and I could get away with a slight bit of bending to get the other end into the quarter panel.
If you PM me an email address, I will email you some PDF files containing the Mercedes Workshop Information System pages on this job. I can't quite figure out what you're on about nor make much sense of the instructions, but I suspect it will all be more meaningful to you and Bolide (who is the expert on these cars).
It does state that in order to replace the tube, you must first remove the control cable.
It does state that in order to replace the tube, you must first remove the control cable.
This is a copy of the planned modification to the tube that holds the control cable. I plan to have a sleeve soldered to the tube, the other end will machined to fit the other end of the tube. At least one Junior Jubilee clip will also be used. Not sure how the long the sleeve will be yet, I'll be having another chat with Engineering shop next week.
Hi Nick,
Yes I think I know why the sunroof broke in the first place. It wasn't working when I bought the car, the plastic guide tube that's clipped to sun roof headling with the spring cap on one of it's fixings had broke so instead of the metal tube going through it when the roof was wound back it missed and the tube kinked.
I've got hold of the MB grease paste, and it's moving better all the time. It's been broken at least 3yrs. I'm putting a new pair of wings on in the next month or so. There sitting painted in the spare room along with all the GTi parts at the MO.
I've been doing bits of under sealing on the Benz seeing the evening are nice, I've spotted a 1 pound coin sized hole on the inner wing to the rear of the indicator cutout. A pals going to weld it up for me, I'll be giving him help building is 1957 Plymouth so he's not charging.
I'm toying with getting a unit to work on the Benz and GTI, painting isn't my strong point so I'm not sure if to pay a pro to do them and the rest myself, and save myself time and rent. I've got a Air Ride System I'm itching to fit in the Merc.
Yes I think I know why the sunroof broke in the first place. It wasn't working when I bought the car, the plastic guide tube that's clipped to sun roof headling with the spring cap on one of it's fixings had broke so instead of the metal tube going through it when the roof was wound back it missed and the tube kinked.
I've got hold of the MB grease paste, and it's moving better all the time. It's been broken at least 3yrs. I'm putting a new pair of wings on in the next month or so. There sitting painted in the spare room along with all the GTi parts at the MO.
I've been doing bits of under sealing on the Benz seeing the evening are nice, I've spotted a 1 pound coin sized hole on the inner wing to the rear of the indicator cutout. A pals going to weld it up for me, I'll be giving him help building is 1957 Plymouth so he's not charging.
I'm toying with getting a unit to work on the Benz and GTI, painting isn't my strong point so I'm not sure if to pay a pro to do them and the rest myself, and save myself time and rent. I've got a Air Ride System I'm itching to fit in the Merc.
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