Continuous clutch problems: your experience?
Discussion
Hi everyone,
I recently changed my clutch master cylinder after loss of fluid (reservoir nearly empty). There was no obvious leak and no fluid in the driver’s footwell but also no fluid under the car (which afaik would be a sign for a knackered slave cylinder). After the master was changed beginning of April everything was fine and I have covered ~1200miles since then of which ~500miles during the last (long) weekend, last 30miles in the rain. No problems whatsoever, car running very smoothly, gears easy to engage. When I took the car out of the garage again yesterday to get the bike out which is parked behind the Cerb my clutch pedal suddenly is easy to push and gears hardly engage, especially with the engine running. Feels exactly like when the reservoir was empty last time. I didn’t have time so far to get access to the reservoir again but am pretty much sure. No fluid under car, no fluid in drivers footwell.
What has happened?
• Master cylinder gone again?
• Slave cylinder gone but fluid dripped somewhere else (engine undertray?) so I can’t see it?
• Any other potential leaks (pipes etc.)?
I don’t want to keep on changing parts that may not be the cause of the problem, so your advice is highly appreciated.
I have booked a drift training on the weekend so timing is an issue .
Leo
I recently changed my clutch master cylinder after loss of fluid (reservoir nearly empty). There was no obvious leak and no fluid in the driver’s footwell but also no fluid under the car (which afaik would be a sign for a knackered slave cylinder). After the master was changed beginning of April everything was fine and I have covered ~1200miles since then of which ~500miles during the last (long) weekend, last 30miles in the rain. No problems whatsoever, car running very smoothly, gears easy to engage. When I took the car out of the garage again yesterday to get the bike out which is parked behind the Cerb my clutch pedal suddenly is easy to push and gears hardly engage, especially with the engine running. Feels exactly like when the reservoir was empty last time. I didn’t have time so far to get access to the reservoir again but am pretty much sure. No fluid under car, no fluid in drivers footwell.
What has happened?
• Master cylinder gone again?
• Slave cylinder gone but fluid dripped somewhere else (engine undertray?) so I can’t see it?
• Any other potential leaks (pipes etc.)?
I don’t want to keep on changing parts that may not be the cause of the problem, so your advice is highly appreciated.
I have booked a drift training on the weekend so timing is an issue .
Leo
Might be the Slave has gone and all your clutch fluid is sitting in the bellhousing when you can whip the cap off the reservoir and check the levels. If the levels are ok you might have snapped a few fingers on the Clutch which would make the pedal feel easier to operate but would not engage the clutch properly.
Edited by Nigelbs1 on Tuesday 7th June 11:08
In all probability it was the slave all along. Masters have an easy life and are not really noted for failing. The fluid does not always end up as a pool under the car as it can get sprayed by the rotating parts in the bellhousing and trapped in various places. Mine showed little or no sign of a leak other than fluid loss over a week or two but just the same it was stuffed and has never gone wrong since I changed it several months ago.
I had trouble with leaks from the clutch bleed hose. After having new clutch & cylinders the hose was left dangling and it came too close to the manifold. The heat distorted the bleed nipple & caused leaking & fluid overheating. When I got a replacement hose, I didn't quite tighten it on properly and it leaked at the other end!
first thing is to check the reservoir and try bleeding it regardless of level. (I had a leak recently which didn't show any loss of fluid from the reservoir)
Check between the bellhousing and gear box for signs of dampness and also the small hole under the bellhousing. As was said above the fluid could have sprayed back under the car but there should still be some tell tale signs. Also check the input and bleed pipes incase one of those has started leaking.
If all is good and you still have issues then it could be your fingers on the clutch have gone.
But also don't forget to lift the drivers carpet as if it is the master again it might have leaked but gone under the carpet.
Good luck!!
Check between the bellhousing and gear box for signs of dampness and also the small hole under the bellhousing. As was said above the fluid could have sprayed back under the car but there should still be some tell tale signs. Also check the input and bleed pipes incase one of those has started leaking.
If all is good and you still have issues then it could be your fingers on the clutch have gone.
But also don't forget to lift the drivers carpet as if it is the master again it might have leaked but gone under the carpet.
Good luck!!
Thanks for all answers and good luck to everyone heading to Le Mans!
I just checked the drivers footwell + clutch pedal itself and also looked under the carpet. All dry, no fluid (just like last time). Openened the reservoir and as expected level pretty much down. Topped up with fresh fluid and pumped clutch pedal 15-20 times to enable any air to go out of the system. I am too short to really see what happened in the reservoir when doing that but had the impression only very small bubbles had come up. Fluid level had only dropped very very little. Topped up. Clutch pedal was back to normal after this procedure and gears engaged easily.
Am I right in saying that it is most probably the slave and that in order to check that the clutch needs to come out and in order to take the clutch out the gearbox needs to come out? How much time for a talented but not TVR experienced (German) workshop to do this? My worries is less about cost but about my drift training on Saturday.
And should a repair not be possible before Saturday is there any risk or problem in using the car as it is (except for me having to top up from time to time)?
Thanks again
I just checked the drivers footwell + clutch pedal itself and also looked under the carpet. All dry, no fluid (just like last time). Openened the reservoir and as expected level pretty much down. Topped up with fresh fluid and pumped clutch pedal 15-20 times to enable any air to go out of the system. I am too short to really see what happened in the reservoir when doing that but had the impression only very small bubbles had come up. Fluid level had only dropped very very little. Topped up. Clutch pedal was back to normal after this procedure and gears engaged easily.
Am I right in saying that it is most probably the slave and that in order to check that the clutch needs to come out and in order to take the clutch out the gearbox needs to come out? How much time for a talented but not TVR experienced (German) workshop to do this? My worries is less about cost but about my drift training on Saturday.
And should a repair not be possible before Saturday is there any risk or problem in using the car as it is (except for me having to top up from time to time)?
Thanks again
4-6 hours for a competent mechanic I would have thought.
Main thing is to know the shortcuts:
take the box off teh bellhousing and leave the box on the exhaust manifolds,
undo the gearstick by reaching round the tail to save getting at it from above,
new seals, holes at 12 and 6 o'clock when refitting,
tap the old countersunk screws out with a punch don't bother drilling them out.
new counter screws for the slave and loctite them in
Main thing is to know the shortcuts:
take the box off teh bellhousing and leave the box on the exhaust manifolds,
undo the gearstick by reaching round the tail to save getting at it from above,
new seals, holes at 12 and 6 o'clock when refitting,
tap the old countersunk screws out with a punch don't bother drilling them out.
new counter screws for the slave and loctite them in
There is no problem in driving it like this.
I had a slave leaking for over 6 months as I really could not be arsed to get under and do the work lol
I was lucky as I didn't actually have to bleed the clutch in the usual way I just topped up and pumped the pedal and all came back to life for a short while. It took me less than 5 mins to remove the covers top up pump and replace covers as i had got so used to the procedure.
Eventually it did get so bad but also so did the weather so I replaced the clutch fluid with engine oil this worked great for a while apart from a heavier more sluggish pedal. As soon as the weather warmed up again I got under there and changed the seals.
I had a slave leaking for over 6 months as I really could not be arsed to get under and do the work lol
I was lucky as I didn't actually have to bleed the clutch in the usual way I just topped up and pumped the pedal and all came back to life for a short while. It took me less than 5 mins to remove the covers top up pump and replace covers as i had got so used to the procedure.
Eventually it did get so bad but also so did the weather so I replaced the clutch fluid with engine oil this worked great for a while apart from a heavier more sluggish pedal. As soon as the weather warmed up again I got under there and changed the seals.
I can get it sorted properly.Mad Mark said:
There is no problem in driving it like this.
I had a slave leaking for over 6 months as I really could not be arsed to get under and do the work lol
I was lucky as I didn't actually have to bleed the clutch in the usual way I just topped up and pumped the pedal and all came back to life for a short while. It took me less than 5 mins to remove the covers top up pump and replace covers as i had got so used to the procedure.
Eventually it did get so bad but also so did the weather so I replaced the clutch fluid with engine oil this worked great for a while apart from a heavier more sluggish pedal. As soon as the weather warmed up again I got under there and changed the seals.
Until the seals fail completely and as you pour the fluid in teh top it trickles out the bottom.I had a slave leaking for over 6 months as I really could not be arsed to get under and do the work lol
I was lucky as I didn't actually have to bleed the clutch in the usual way I just topped up and pumped the pedal and all came back to life for a short while. It took me less than 5 mins to remove the covers top up pump and replace covers as i had got so used to the procedure.
Eventually it did get so bad but also so did the weather so I replaced the clutch fluid with engine oil this worked great for a while apart from a heavier more sluggish pedal. As soon as the weather warmed up again I got under there and changed the seals.
Luckily mine did this on my driveway....
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff