Fresh air please
Discussion
seasider said:
If you solve the old hot air problem i reckon people might even forgive you for all previous buying posts 
Keeps the forum alive though
I was worried you'd all get bored when I eventually bought one, but now the real fun starts! I see a mission starting
After Goodwood I had lots of bits of dash board off sorting various niggles and started to look at getting cooler air in. I also found out:
1: Why the glove box warms pastys nicely
2: Why the brake lights go on at full acceleration welly. (and I cant sort it either unless I make a strengthing bracket, adjust the sensitivity of the brake switch or take one of the lead weights out of my right shoe
. Seems to be a built-in TVR fault). >> Edited by DustyC on Monday 24th May 12:21
Air to heater is thru LHS wing.
Hot water from Cyl head flow & return go over top of battery / fuse box. Mine has a valve here to ensure flow if heater is switched off. You can test the operation by simply feeling heat in pipes - ie when you switch to cold, does the flow stop to the heater matrix (in LH wing).
However the link to the RHS footwell vent is via the big black duct at the back of the engine - mine became a lot cooler when I fixed a split in this in this duct!
HTH, Dave
Hot water from Cyl head flow & return go over top of battery / fuse box. Mine has a valve here to ensure flow if heater is switched off. You can test the operation by simply feeling heat in pipes - ie when you switch to cold, does the flow stop to the heater matrix (in LH wing).
However the link to the RHS footwell vent is via the big black duct at the back of the engine - mine became a lot cooler when I fixed a split in this in this duct!
HTH, Dave
spend said:
However the link to the RHS footwell vent is via the big black duct at the back of the engine - mine became a lot cooler when I fixed a split in this in this duct!
HTH, Dave
I assume this big black duct cannot be seen unless the car is on ramps? I guessed the air must be coming in right behind the engine but couldnt see anything from above.
Dusty,
Take the switch off clean with WD40,Lightly grease replace & adjust...Stoppped people accusing me of doing a Micheal Schumacher on them
Not sure about the air intake position but i reckon it's takes straight from the engine bay...Kin always hot or very hot & yes all my adjusting valves are working properly and moving the flaps.. the cold heater pipe does stay cold but still no b
y cold air...
Take the switch off clean with WD40,Lightly grease replace & adjust...Stoppped people accusing me of doing a Micheal Schumacher on them
Not sure about the air intake position but i reckon it's takes straight from the engine bay...Kin always hot or very hot & yes all my adjusting valves are working properly and moving the flaps.. the cold heater pipe does stay cold but still no b
y cold air...The brake switch works fine but I have found that when you press the loud pedal really really hard it flexs the bracket that the brake swtich is on just enough to light up the brake lights.
However, if you only push the loud pedal really hard (instead of really really hard) then it doesnt happen and it goes just as fast. So I'll just do this instead!
My brother who was being driven behind me quoted that he knew when I was really going for it because the brake lights came on!
However, if you only push the loud pedal really hard (instead of really really hard) then it doesnt happen and it goes just as fast. So I'll just do this instead!
My brother who was being driven behind me quoted that he knew when I was really going for it because the brake lights came on!
Thanks Seasider. Perhaps I'll try the same then.
I adjusted my throttle pedal limit bolt to the correct position* to see if that made a difference but it didnt.
* position of this bolt was null (ie bolt was loose and of no use). I have locked it right at the limit of the pedal travel. I assume this is correct?
I adjusted my throttle pedal limit bolt to the correct position* to see if that made a difference but it didnt.
* position of this bolt was null (ie bolt was loose and of no use). I have locked it right at the limit of the pedal travel. I assume this is correct?
DustyC said:
I assume this big black duct cannot be seen unless the car is on ramps? I guessed the air must be coming in right behind the engine but couldnt see anything from above.
No, big black duct, goes thru the inner wing just under the bonnet lock, round the back of the cyl head & thru other wing just under the wiper motor - its a little awkward to get at, but clearly visible with the bonnet open.
Dave
cabin air comes from the hole in the wall of the radiator aperture at the front of the car, thru the lhs wings to a blower box behind the glovebox. from there via black pipes to the passenger vents (by quauterlight, above knees in airbox, and lhs dash vent) the rhs dash vent on mine is fed via the cool only additional blower box in the rhs wings.
the reasons for hot only air are...
1 the inner wings act as a heat soak for the engine bay and in particular the exhaust manifolds which run only mm's from the inner wing. (this also give the acrid smell commonly associated with older cars. replace the heatsheild on the inner wings -silver material as bonnet)
2 the heater matrix is a bypass for the thermostat on some engines (earlier cars) so there is always SOME hot water passing thru.
had all these probs, new manifolds and heatshields solved this...see profile pic)
the reasons for hot only air are...
1 the inner wings act as a heat soak for the engine bay and in particular the exhaust manifolds which run only mm's from the inner wing. (this also give the acrid smell commonly associated with older cars. replace the heatsheild on the inner wings -silver material as bonnet)
2 the heater matrix is a bypass for the thermostat on some engines (earlier cars) so there is always SOME hot water passing thru.
had all these probs, new manifolds and heatshields solved this...see profile pic)
DustyC said:
Thanks Seasider. Perhaps I'll try the same then.
I adjusted my throttle pedal limit bolt to the correct position* to see if that made a difference but it didnt.
* position of this bolt was null (ie bolt was loose and of no use). I have locked it right at the limit of the pedal travel. I assume this is correct?
Dont think the cable adjustment will make that much difference unless its really twisting the peddle box, cant look at mine at the mo as it's in for some other tweeks...i now have a leven peddle set so wont be the same accelerator pedal arm anyway...
My money is on a build up on the contacts
I can already taste a beer
>> Edited by seasider on Monday 24th May 14:56
seasider said:
Dont think the cable adjustment will make that much difference unless its really twisting the peddle box, cant look at mine at the mo as it's in for some other tweeks...i now have a leven peddle set so wont be the same accelerator pedal arm anyway...
My money is on a build up on the contacts
I can already taste a beer
Contacts are nice and clean though. Switch almost looks new.
Its not the cable adjustment bolt Im talking about. There is a bolt the other side of the throttle pedal(nearer the driver) that limits the throttle travel.
I thought it might have been the fact that this was not in use that may be causing the bracket flex but its not.
My switch works perfectly, if anything its too sensitive as it picks up on this flex from the accelerator.
If I wanted to adjust anythign it would be the sensitivity of the brake switch by moving it nearer the brake pedal but this will then mean that very slight braking will mean no brake lights.
So...
The fix is, not to try pushing the accelerator through the floor! If I push the throttle pedal to the floor (ie to its limit) the brake lights dont come on. If I then put some pressue on it (which actually flexes the bracket) the brake lights come on.
So Im gonna leave it and take the lead out my shoe!
.. hence adjustment or sticky contact... Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff