What is the Mazda 6 platform shared with?
Discussion
Hi guys
I'm suffering confusion! I always thought the Mazda6 was a Mondeo in drag. Having a small petrol head arguement with a mate here at work, who says it's not, it's a Mazda engine, 'box, chassis and body.
Who's right then? If it matters, we were specifically talking about the Diesel lumps.
I'm suffering confusion! I always thought the Mazda6 was a Mondeo in drag. Having a small petrol head arguement with a mate here at work, who says it's not, it's a Mazda engine, 'box, chassis and body.
Who's right then? If it matters, we were specifically talking about the Diesel lumps.
Well;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_CD3_platform
The Ford CD3 platform (for "C/D-class") is a Ford global midsize car automobile platform. It was designed by Mazda.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_G_platform#GG
Note that Mazda6 models assembled at the joint-venture AutoAlliance International plant in Flat Rock, Michigan
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AutoAlliance_Internat...
AutoAlliance International (AAI) is a joint venture automobile assembly firm co-owned by Ford Motor Company and Mazda Motor Corporation.
So, abit of a mash up.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_CD3_platform
The Ford CD3 platform (for "C/D-class") is a Ford global midsize car automobile platform. It was designed by Mazda.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_G_platform#GG
Note that Mazda6 models assembled at the joint-venture AutoAlliance International plant in Flat Rock, Michigan
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AutoAlliance_Internat...
AutoAlliance International (AAI) is a joint venture automobile assembly firm co-owned by Ford Motor Company and Mazda Motor Corporation.
So, abit of a mash up.
-crookedtail- said:
I think your mate wins this argument! The MZR-CD isn't a ford engine, a unreliable beast maybe but not a ford engine. 
The GG platform its based on is more a development of the old 626 but does form a base for some American fords.
So it has reliability issues? The reason we were on to a discussion is i'm thinking of one as my next motorway hack, since I wrote off my Octavia.The GG platform its based on is more a development of the old 626 but does form a base for some American fords.
My key criteria is reliability and economy! Honest John and parkers indicate it's very reliable. Have you other expriences? I listen to PH before anywhere else!!
eltax91 said:
So it has reliability issues? The reason we were on to a discussion is i'm thinking of one as my next motorway hack, since I wrote off my Octavia.
My key criteria is reliability and economy! Honest John and parkers indicate it's very reliable. Have you other expriences? I listen to PH before anywhere else!!
Which varient/Age?My key criteria is reliability and economy! Honest John and parkers indicate it's very reliable. Have you other expriences? I listen to PH before anywhere else!!
eltax91 said:
So it has reliability issues? The reason we were on to a discussion is i'm thinking of one as my next motorway hack, since I wrote off my Octavia.
My key criteria is reliability and economy! Honest John and parkers indicate it's very reliable. Have you other expriences? I listen to PH before anywhere else!!
Well I have not had much luck with mine. My common rail failed and Mazda wanted £800 plus fitting, fortunately I found a used one on ebay for £80 so not all bad. My key criteria is reliability and economy! Honest John and parkers indicate it's very reliable. Have you other expriences? I listen to PH before anywhere else!!
Google it as it seems a lot of people have had some big issues with them, its a nice car when it works though.
looking at these myself as a next "keeper" car. Not so much the diesel but if one came up that I liked, I would consider it.
Seems the Diesels have some problems :
Clutch vibration on diesels can be cured FOC by a dealer-fit modification (though this may be confused with the a/c clutch mod under 'recalls').
Enough reports of premature clutch and clutch/flywheel failure to state that the model seems to suffer a much higher rate of this than would be normal.
Several complaints of 5th gear failure on diesels. On the 136PS 5-speed diesel, labouring of the engine in 5th (and towing) can lead to a short 5th gear life as the selector pins wear. Not a problem on later 6-speed box.
Headlights bulbs can blow continually
ECU light of diesels come on intermittently due to Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valves getting gummed up and needing replacing.
One reader had a spate of problems in two and a half years:- new clutch (18,000miles). New rear tyres due to mis-alignment (20,000miles). Brake discs re-skimmed (23,000 miles: again seems to be a common problem), throttle body cleaned out due to a sticking butterfly valve (26,000miles).
75,000 mile service of diesels expensive at around £700 as includes timing belt and tensioner change. Headlamps can be prone to blowing bulbs.
Failure of suction valve in the fuel tank lifter pump of diesels leads to stalling. Faulty batch of valves in 2003 build cars. Mazda has offered 60% of the parts cost.
Rusting under the paint at the fronts of the rear wheel arches quite common after about 4 years. Also rusting of tailgates on hatches and estates and rusting of door bottoms.
Numerous reports of crankshaft big end failure on 2000 - 2003 136PS diesels.
On petrol models with cruise control, random variations in engine revs can be caused by a sticking cruise control actuator step motor. Dismantling, thoroughly cleaning and relubricating, followed by reassembly can cure it.
Diesels with DPFs suffering contaminated oil and raised oil levels that can lead to engine damage. The dip stick has a Low, Full and X mark. Between L and F is 1cm and then X is 6cm above Full. The handbook says do not fill past X or you could damage the engine, yet unused fuel gets deposited in the sump by the DPF. So crucial to check the oil level at least weekly, and it it starts to rise towards X, book the car in to your Mazda dealer. It may be that an ECU software upgrade can cure this, and the engine will need an oil change anyway.
Some owners believe the car is not suitable for town and/or stop start driving as the build up of particulates cannot be removed and contaminates the engine with diesel fuel, leading to costly engine replacements or 3,500 mile oil changes. More on this problem and how to avoid it in the DPF FAQ answer on this website.
Numerous reports of alloy wheels oxidising from a mix of UK road salt and brake dust. If still under warranty Mazda offers a refurb.
MPS develops its fair share of faults. Not enough brakes to cope with repeated use of the performance. Turbo oil seals fail regularly if the turbo is not idled for a minute or two before switching off. Rear diff mounts can fail.
Taken from Honest John
Seems the Diesels have some problems :
Clutch vibration on diesels can be cured FOC by a dealer-fit modification (though this may be confused with the a/c clutch mod under 'recalls').
Enough reports of premature clutch and clutch/flywheel failure to state that the model seems to suffer a much higher rate of this than would be normal.
Several complaints of 5th gear failure on diesels. On the 136PS 5-speed diesel, labouring of the engine in 5th (and towing) can lead to a short 5th gear life as the selector pins wear. Not a problem on later 6-speed box.
Headlights bulbs can blow continually
ECU light of diesels come on intermittently due to Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valves getting gummed up and needing replacing.
One reader had a spate of problems in two and a half years:- new clutch (18,000miles). New rear tyres due to mis-alignment (20,000miles). Brake discs re-skimmed (23,000 miles: again seems to be a common problem), throttle body cleaned out due to a sticking butterfly valve (26,000miles).
75,000 mile service of diesels expensive at around £700 as includes timing belt and tensioner change. Headlamps can be prone to blowing bulbs.
Failure of suction valve in the fuel tank lifter pump of diesels leads to stalling. Faulty batch of valves in 2003 build cars. Mazda has offered 60% of the parts cost.
Rusting under the paint at the fronts of the rear wheel arches quite common after about 4 years. Also rusting of tailgates on hatches and estates and rusting of door bottoms.
Numerous reports of crankshaft big end failure on 2000 - 2003 136PS diesels.
On petrol models with cruise control, random variations in engine revs can be caused by a sticking cruise control actuator step motor. Dismantling, thoroughly cleaning and relubricating, followed by reassembly can cure it.
Diesels with DPFs suffering contaminated oil and raised oil levels that can lead to engine damage. The dip stick has a Low, Full and X mark. Between L and F is 1cm and then X is 6cm above Full. The handbook says do not fill past X or you could damage the engine, yet unused fuel gets deposited in the sump by the DPF. So crucial to check the oil level at least weekly, and it it starts to rise towards X, book the car in to your Mazda dealer. It may be that an ECU software upgrade can cure this, and the engine will need an oil change anyway.
Some owners believe the car is not suitable for town and/or stop start driving as the build up of particulates cannot be removed and contaminates the engine with diesel fuel, leading to costly engine replacements or 3,500 mile oil changes. More on this problem and how to avoid it in the DPF FAQ answer on this website.
Numerous reports of alloy wheels oxidising from a mix of UK road salt and brake dust. If still under warranty Mazda offers a refurb.
MPS develops its fair share of faults. Not enough brakes to cope with repeated use of the performance. Turbo oil seals fail regularly if the turbo is not idled for a minute or two before switching off. Rear diff mounts can fail.
Taken from Honest John
JonnyFive said:
Which varient/Age?
This one:- http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2011...Or something similar, maybe slightly newer. Budget 2-3.5k ish
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