'Old' Z3 - How much of a money pit??
Discussion
Following on from a thread in GG I am thinking about a MX- or Z3 2.8 for 3k.
I really want a Z3 2.8i manual even if it is not as sharp and light as a MX-5 so started a thread here to focus in the Z3 running costs from owners here.
I am on a budget in terms of buying it and running it - fuel is not an issue but big repair bills are. I am not a DIY type either...so if it is car that is likely to need allot to run at this age then I will do the sensible thing an go Jap.
So I am trying to find out from owners what have been there experiences on the kind of Z3 I can get for around 3k. The kind of cars I am looking at are the early ones with anything between 70-130k on the clock according to the classifieds. I would steer clear of any 'chavved' ones of course and there seem to be a few well looked after ones around boasting full BMW history and 2-3 owners only.
On the other post an ABS pump failure was noted and one poster says that he noticed that some had the front brakes repalced early on (rotors and callipers).
I am wondering if there are any expensive suspension bits, electric roof issues, diff, vanos etc that will come up and make a 3k 'bargain' stupid idea...
I really want a Z3 2.8i manual even if it is not as sharp and light as a MX-5 so started a thread here to focus in the Z3 running costs from owners here.
I am on a budget in terms of buying it and running it - fuel is not an issue but big repair bills are. I am not a DIY type either...so if it is car that is likely to need allot to run at this age then I will do the sensible thing an go Jap.
So I am trying to find out from owners what have been there experiences on the kind of Z3 I can get for around 3k. The kind of cars I am looking at are the early ones with anything between 70-130k on the clock according to the classifieds. I would steer clear of any 'chavved' ones of course and there seem to be a few well looked after ones around boasting full BMW history and 2-3 owners only.
On the other post an ABS pump failure was noted and one poster says that he noticed that some had the front brakes repalced early on (rotors and callipers).
I am wondering if there are any expensive suspension bits, electric roof issues, diff, vanos etc that will come up and make a 3k 'bargain' stupid idea...
muckymotor said:
Check the boot floor isn't tearing along with the diff mount for cracks.
By lifting the carpet for teh former and getting underneath with a falshlight or on a ramp for the latter I suppose?Is this from being abused or normal wear and tear. I remember the e30's breaking diff mounts but that was after massive absue (reverse then 1st then drop the clutch cue wheels spinning forwards whilst going backwards!)
Dino i just bought a cheap z3 blind (more or less as it was an auction). So far no huge nasty surprises. The 2.8 can suffer overheating issues due to various failing items in the cooling chain. This is not z3 specific, more any BMW with the m52/m54 engine.
Common things to look for on the z3 that affected me:
broken glovebox
broken interior door handle
car can tramline under heavy breaking ( apparently an acceptable phenomenon in z3 community)
rear screen cracks
Common things to look for on the z3 that affected me:
broken glovebox
broken interior door handle
car can tramline under heavy breaking ( apparently an acceptable phenomenon in z3 community)
rear screen cracks
illmonkey said:
Fuel pumps are a bugger, just had a £440 bill to replace it. If its low, don't believe "I don't keep much petrol in it", if you're serious, chuck £20 in it and ensure the gauge works. If not, you'll get a similar bill!
Thanks for the heads up - is the faulty fuel gauge a symptom of the fuel pump not working?Does the fuel pump get noisy when about to go?
My only experience of a fuel pump problem was on an audi back in 1997 - the fuel pump just stopped suddenly, no noise or warning.
Dino D said:
illmonkey said:
Fuel pumps are a bugger, just had a £440 bill to replace it. If its low, don't believe "I don't keep much petrol in it", if you're serious, chuck £20 in it and ensure the gauge works. If not, you'll get a similar bill!
Thanks for the heads up - is the faulty fuel gauge a symptom of the fuel pump not working?Does the fuel pump get noisy when about to go?
My only experience of a fuel pump problem was on an audi back in 1997 - the fuel pump just stopped suddenly, no noise or warning.
So, we had to replace the whole thing, for a simple board. We did look for a second hand one, but they seems to be rare as hens teeth.
There was no warning of it going. No noise etc. Like I say, best to see it with some petrol and seem it working. The computer also showed "---" on a full tank, as it couldn't read the level.
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