Radiator leaking
Discussion
Week 5 of ownership 1993 pre-serp
not used all week as need to sort Alternator/fan issue
last night spotted damp patches behind grille
Rad is weeping from each end from core/header tanks
where's the best source for a re-cored rad in the Watford area
be nice to actually get to drive it one day soon
Thanks
not used all week as need to sort Alternator/fan issue
last night spotted damp patches behind grille
Rad is weeping from each end from core/header tanks
where's the best source for a re-cored rad in the Watford area
be nice to actually get to drive it one day soon
Thanks
I used these people.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/bostonradiatorspecialists
Great service. I had the new Rad in a couple of days and they took the old one in exchange.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/bostonradiatorspecialists
Great service. I had the new Rad in a couple of days and they took the old one in exchange.
Funny that I have been looking at their Ebay listing
I think I will be odering from them
just got a price from another supplier and its almost £100 more
Thanks for the reply its good to get good feedback from an existing customer
Is it better to get one with the otter switch on the rad - mines on the swirl pot at the moment
I think I will be odering from them
just got a price from another supplier and its almost £100 more
Thanks for the reply its good to get good feedback from an existing customer
Is it better to get one with the otter switch on the rad - mines on the swirl pot at the moment
Not sure about relocating the otter switch to the Rad, although my new rad has a blanking plug that can be removed if you want to do that.
I just left everything where it was but took the time to tidy the electrics at the front, and clean and treat the chassis near the Earthing point while the Rad was out.
It's a simple job but make sure you remove the bonnet and get a helper to lift the rad out, it's a bit of a squeeze.
I just left everything where it was but took the time to tidy the electrics at the front, and clean and treat the chassis near the Earthing point while the Rad was out.
It's a simple job but make sure you remove the bonnet and get a helper to lift the rad out, it's a bit of a squeeze.
srdtvr said:
Thanks again
Yes I heard its a bit of a squeeze although it looks quite straight forward
is it essential to remove the bonnet?
I found it easily doable with the bonnet in place. Two people are best as it needs to come out of the car sqaure as it is a tight fit and to refit. I alos left the fans on the rad and removed when out iof the carYes I heard its a bit of a squeeze although it looks quite straight forward
is it essential to remove the bonnet?
I used a long broom handle to prop the bonnet open .
Trev
WOO5IE said:
I found it easily doable with the bonnet in place. Two people are best as it needs to come out of the car sqaure as it is a tight fit and to refit. I alos left the fans on the rad and removed when out iof the car
I used a long broom handle to prop the bonnet open .
Trev
Thanks Trev, I will assess these options when I start work - narrow garage spoace may dictate that the bonnet need to be removed I used a long broom handle to prop the bonnet open .
Trev
Helped my mate take the rad out of his Chim recently.
We did it with the bonnet still on but I wouldn't like to take the rad out on my own because you are leaning in and it is still quite heavy when empty.
Its a hell of a tight fit and we had to remove the induction pipe too. We also had the filler tank off but I don't know if we needed to do that or did it 'just in case'
We did it with the bonnet still on but I wouldn't like to take the rad out on my own because you are leaning in and it is still quite heavy when empty.
Its a hell of a tight fit and we had to remove the induction pipe too. We also had the filler tank off but I don't know if we needed to do that or did it 'just in case'
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