Clutch diagnosis
Discussion
My gear changes have been getting "clunkier" recently, and now the bite-point seems to have got so low than I can barely engage gear.
There are no apparent leaks, and (after some effort!) I've manged to locate and check the clutch fluid reservoir - and was surprised to find it full to the brim. If I had a dodgy seal, or air in the system, then I would have expected to find the fluid level down?
So - is it more like to be the clutch itself?
Thanks,
Baz.
There are no apparent leaks, and (after some effort!) I've manged to locate and check the clutch fluid reservoir - and was surprised to find it full to the brim. If I had a dodgy seal, or air in the system, then I would have expected to find the fluid level down?
So - is it more like to be the clutch itself?
Thanks,
Baz.
hi baz mine just gone exactly as yours fluid still full etc stripped it down 8 fingers broken off pressure plate so had new one delivered today from racing green think they had two left and mine was one of those pretty sure we tried race tech too and they were waiting for a delivery good luck anyway but my guess would be pressure plate
Have you attempted the bleed process yet? The reason being is that first I'd like you to try (with engine running obviously) quickly down on the clutch peddle and the try to engage a gear. If it goes in easy enough, keep the clutch peddle down the see if it starts to release and move the car. If it does this I'd be changing the master cylinder first!
Nope, not started yet...
Everything ready - freed off the nipple, jam jar in position, Mrs MV6 primed to operate the clutch pedal - and then realised it would be a lot easier if I had a short length of plastic tubing. So put on hold again (you can't rush these jobs).
So I'll try your experiment - perhaps after work tomorrow, since I don't think the neighbours would thank me for firing her up on a Sunday night...
Everything ready - freed off the nipple, jam jar in position, Mrs MV6 primed to operate the clutch pedal - and then realised it would be a lot easier if I had a short length of plastic tubing. So put on hold again (you can't rush these jobs).So I'll try your experiment - perhaps after work tomorrow, since I don't think the neighbours would thank me for firing her up on a Sunday night...
M3John said:
I'd like you to try (with engine running obviously) quickly down on the clutch peddle and the try to engage a gear. If it goes in easy enough, keep the clutch peddle down the see if it starts to release and move the car. If it does this I'd be changing the master cylinder first!
OK - it actually went into gear easier than expected, and there was no "drag". In fact I had a fair bit of travel before I could get it to start biting. So clutch still working - but a lot of free play at the top end of the pedal movement now.Sounds to me like it's still worth a good bleed?
Right. I've now attempted to bleed the system twice, and each time it's got worse rather than better - such that I've now got hardly any pressure when depressing the clutch pedal.
To my mind this points to probably the master cylinder? If I can't get any pressure in the system, then I must have a leak somewhere?
Unless someone can convince me this is a really simple job (for a numpty), then I think it's off to TVR Power (assuming I can find a way of transporting it there)...
To my mind this points to probably the master cylinder? If I can't get any pressure in the system, then I must have a leak somewhere?
Unless someone can convince me this is a really simple job (for a numpty), then I think it's off to TVR Power (assuming I can find a way of transporting it there)...
hi baz read my thread about master cylinder and you will save some money,if you take the top off the master cylinder and pump the pedal and there are lots of bubbles in fluid its probably sh@@@ed,thats what mine was doing anyway and now it does,nt.you should be able to do it yourself mate tbh not to difficult,its more fiddley than anything ,i could not get a spanner on the bottom nut for love nor money so i wedged a file down between the edge of the nut and the body,get yourself into the footwell and undo the two nuts 1/2 inch a/f btw,then prise out pin that goes through pedal,remove pipe and lift out.when fitting new cylinder i did as some of the other guys and arraldited the bolts to the cylinder which aids fitting a lot,took me 20 minutes to put it all back,didnt even need any help to bleed the clutch just had the pipe hanging down and opened the bleed nipple,air and fluid kept coming out, closed nipple refilled resavoir pumped pedal,back underneath repeat procedure,tried pedal was almost there slight top up pump pedal,back undedrneath open nipple little bit of air then just lovely clean fluid,tighten nipple try pedal was solid car now drives lovely,hope this is of some help good luck with it anyway
Now what's going on??!?
I went out tonight to put everything back in place in preparation for shipping the car off to the garage. Decided to turn it over when I'd finished (as you do) - just to see how the battery was. Before pushing the starter I put my foot on the clutch as I always do. Was very surprised to find it felt like normal!! None of the floppy pedal syndrome from last time I tried! :huh:
Now, pleased that I am to have what appears to be a working clutch again, I'd like to understand what's going on. Last weekend it felt like I had no fluid in the system whatsoever. Now it's fine. How do you explain that?
I went out tonight to put everything back in place in preparation for shipping the car off to the garage. Decided to turn it over when I'd finished (as you do) - just to see how the battery was. Before pushing the starter I put my foot on the clutch as I always do. Was very surprised to find it felt like normal!! None of the floppy pedal syndrome from last time I tried! :huh:
Now, pleased that I am to have what appears to be a working clutch again, I'd like to understand what's going on. Last weekend it felt like I had no fluid in the system whatsoever. Now it's fine. How do you explain that?

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