Defender chassis

[cpas]

I was talking to a couple of people at the weekend who considered a galvo chassis to be a bad idea on an off-roading Defender, saying I should buy a non-galvo one instead. Is there any sense in this, as surely the galvanising gets into the inside of the rails as well and stops the chassis rusting from the inside. I haven't been able to find one any cheaper than a galvo one so cannot see the point.
Does anyone have any experience of either?

[Sarge 4x4]

Galvanised all day long.

[300bhp/ton]

cpas said:

I was talking to a couple of people at the weekend who considered a galvo chassis to be a bad idea on an off-roading Defender, saying I should buy a non-galvo one instead. Is there any sense in this, as surely the galvanising gets into the inside of the rails as well and stops the chassis rusting from the inside. I haven't been able to find one any cheaper than a galvo one so cannot see the point.
Does anyone have any experience of either?

Did they offer any rational to their advice?

IMO there are two takes on it.

1. If you plan to fit a cage or weld anything to the chassis, then it's harder with a galvanized chassis as the weld won't take to the galv as easy and the sections you weld too end up being thinner.

2. How long do you plan to keep the vehicle? A well looked after non galv chassis should last 20-40 years, as many a Series Landy can attest too.

However if it's no cheaper to get a galv one and you aren't likely to fit a cage or weld it, then I see no reason to not get one.

[cpas]

300bhp/ton said:

cpas said:

I was talking to a couple of people at the weekend who considered a galvo chassis to be a bad idea on an off-roading Defender, saying I should buy a non-galvo one instead. Is there any sense in this, as surely the galvanising gets into the inside of the rails as well and stops the chassis rusting from the inside. I haven't been able to find one any cheaper than a galvo one so cannot see the point.
Does anyone have any experience of either?

Did they offer any rational to their advice?

IMO there are two takes on it.

1. If you plan to fit a cage or weld anything to the chassis, then it's harder with a galvanized chassis as the weld won't take to the galv as easy and the sections you weld too end up being thinner.

2. How long do you plan to keep the vehicle? A well looked after non galv chassis should last 20-40 years, as many a Series Landy can attest too.

However if it's no cheaper to get a galv one and you aren't likely to fit a cage or weld it, then I see no reason to not get one.

No real rational thoughts were offered apart from mainly weight and expense. I'm not worried about weight as it's a Land Rover anyway and is not exactly light. And as for price, I've also looked on the internet and can't find any non-galvo for sale apart from second hand ones!!


The main reason offered was that if I scrape the galvo off the bottom whilst off-roading it will go rusty quicker which I disagree with, as the whole point of galvanising is that it's partially self-repairing, and also sacrificial so will protect any steel near to it. The other argument was that any damage would not be weldable. I can't see that off roading will damage the chassis that much!!

I personally think that galvo is the way to go 100% but am always willing to admit I'm wrong if necessary!!

[PeetBee]

Chassis tend to rust from the inside out, more so if offroading where you'll be dunking it into muddy water!
IMO I would go for galv as you have that protection inside and if you really do manage to scrape all the galv off the bottom you can always paint it whilst keeping the protection elsewhere.

[cpas]

PeetBee said:

Chassis tend to rust from the inside out, more so if offroading where you'll be dunking it into muddy water!
IMO I would go for galv as you have that protection inside and if you really do manage to scrape all the galv off the bottom you can always paint it whilst keeping the protection elsewhere.

My thought as well. My current chassis seems to have mostly gone rotten on the side rails rather than underneath, and it does seem to be going from the inside. My money's on a Marslands at the moment as they seem to be as good as but work out about £300 cheaper than Richards.

[richb77]

weight was a concern

I know you have said it but its a defender. Its NEVER going to be lightweight now is it.

Cost would be the main issue and thats why i havent got one on my defender, but if you can afford it, Galvanised all they way.

No other choice in my humble opinion.

[cpas]

I'm passing within a few miles of Marslands tomorrow so I may call in for a chat! OK, so what am I likely to need to but as well? I'm going to buy new brake pipes and flexi hoses but what else should I source whilst at Billing? How many bolts hold the chassis on and where are they located apart from the rear cross member?

[300bhp/ton]

Quite a lot of bolts. Personally I'd try and source stainless steel/zinc plated/galv nuts and bolts where possible.

[Hot Dog Harrigan]

I've never had to do any welding on a galvanised chassis but I don't understand why people are saying they can't be welded, as far as I'm aware they can be welded just as easily as an un-galvanised one.

ETA.. I've just done a quick search & found this. http://www.sperkoengineering.com/html/articles/Wel...

Edited by Hot Dog Harrigan on Monday 27th June 08:29

[cpas]

Thanks to you both. I will procure lots of fixings - e-bay is my best friend!!!
The welding article makeds interesting reading. I have welded galvo before and just scraped the coating off as you would with paint in the immediate weld area.
I visited Marslands today and was well impressed - they are obvisously a small family copany and basically get bare chassis from the same people who manufacture for LR, then modify them to add engine mounts etc, then get them galvo'd.

[garethj]

300bhp/ton said:

Quite a lot of bolts. Personally I'd try and source stainless steel/zinc plated/galv nuts and bolts where possible.

In my schoolboys’ book of noble metals, stainless steel is a long way from zinc (the plating on galvanised chassis) so there’s likely to be corrosion between the two. For this reason, I’d go for zinc plated fasteners on a new galvanised chassis.

[cpas]

The time's nearly nigh - just got Billing to see if anyone's doing any deals, then if not it's off to Marslands!!

[DrDeAtH]

while it is in bits, you may as well do the suspension bushes, run new breathers for the axles, new fuel pipe..... the list goes on..

[cpas]

I'm planning on spending as much time as is necessary stripping, cleaning and painting and renewing where required so I can effectively have a 'new' car and know the condition of everything. I've got a polybush kit already which I never got round to fitting, and know someone with a flaring kit and plenty of brake pipe ends.

[Barreti]

Good luck with the rebuild.

I had a bit of welding to do around the towing bracket back. I started it in February and its still not off the ramps.

I've cut out and patched the rot.
Then the trouble started when I got into the "while I'm at it" vein

So far I've painted the chassis up to the engine mounts with POR15
Replaced the A frame bush
Replaced the exhaust rubbers
Rewired the towpoint electrics

Then working on the Near Side;
Pulled off the sill and installed a rock slider.
Removed the rock slider because it was Galv and too blingy, so I've POR15'd them too.
Reinstalled the rock slider
Replaced the leaky swivel
Reconditioned the front caliper with new pistons, seals, pads and paint job.
Replaced the rear brake hub and shoes (painted the hub a nice shade of silver)
Reconditioned the rear brake pistons
Painted the rear spring and shock with POR15

I've now started on the Offside and its all disasembled, but I've already decided that before I bleed the brakes I'll replace the flexi brake lines with braided.

Oh, I have track rod ends to replace too after finding a split gaiter. But thats already disconnected.

See, it certainly gets out of hand...

ps. Windscreen surround. I forgot that

[cpas]

Barreti said:

Good luck with the rebuild.

I had a bit of welding to do around the towing bracket back. I started it in February and its still not off the ramps.

I've cut out and patched the rot.
Then the trouble started when I got into the "while I'm at it" vein

So far I've painted the chassis up to the engine mounts with POR15
Replaced the A frame bush
Replaced the exhaust rubbers
Rewired the towpoint electrics

Then working on the Near Side;
Pulled off the sill and installed a rock slider.
Removed the rock slider because it was Galv and too blingy, so I've POR15'd them too.
Reinstalled the rock slider
Replaced the leaky swivel
Reconditioned the front caliper with new pistons, seals, pads and paint job.
Replaced the rear brake hub and shoes (painted the hub a nice shade of silver)
Reconditioned the rear brake pistons
Painted the rear spring and shock with POR15

I've now started on the Offside and its all disasembled, but I've already decided that before I bleed the brakes I'll replace the flexi brake lines with braided.

Oh, I have track rod ends to replace too after finding a split gaiter. But thats already disconnected.

See, it certainly gets out of hand...

ps. Windscreen surround. I forgot that

Your story sounds very familiar - I can see mine going in a similar way!! I've already bought an off-roading Disco 200TDi with a year's MOT so I've got until that runs out to complete the 90 !!!
The POR15 you're using, is that the rust eater or the chassis black?
I'm planning on removing the axles and partially dismantling so I can wire brush, a good dose of rust-eater on and give a coat of paint - after welding on new diff pans of course!!
I am also intending on painting the new chassis black - my rock sliders are already black so these should be an easy fit.
I'm thinking about re-routing the wiring to the rear through the inside so it's more protected.
Lots of my mechanical stuff has been rebuilt so I may just leave as is unless something crops up!!
I've also got to do major repairs to the door bottoms and probably the bulkhead!!
I'm lucky that I can take it off the road for a year to do but it's already been 3 months and I've not started yet.

[Barreti]

The POR15 I've used is Rust Preventative and in the places where its likely to see sunshine it has been overpainted with Chassis Black. I did the same with the Galv rocksliders, having prepared it with Metal Ready first though.

If you paint your chassis with this make sure its clean, including old paint or it won't stick and comes off in sheets. When you remove the paint if it is nice clean steel underneath you will need to use Metal Ready to etch it or it won't stick.
It has done a nice job of painting the axle and diff after a good wire brushing.

If you're considering this stuff, but the pack of 6 small tins. If you don't clean the top of the can very thoroughly after using it you won't get the top off next time. So if you get small tins you might use the entire tin and if you don't and you forget to clean it at least its only a bit you waste.

And don't - DON'T - get it on your skin because it doesn't come off.

[cpas]

Barreti said:

The POR15 I've used is Rust Preventative and in the places where its likely to see sunshine it has been overpainted with Chassis Black. I did the same with the Galv rocksliders, having prepared it with Metal Ready first though.

If you paint your chassis with this make sure its clean, including old paint or it won't stick and comes off in sheets. When you remove the paint if it is nice clean steel underneath you will need to use Metal Ready to etch it or it won't stick.
It has done a nice job of painting the axle and diff after a good wire brushing.

If you're considering this stuff, but the pack of 6 small tins. If you don't clean the top of the can very thoroughly after using it you won't get the top off next time. So if you get small tins you might use the entire tin and if you don't and you forget to clean it at least its only a bit you waste.

And don't - DON'T - get it on your skin because it doesn't come off.

Sounds like good stuff then. I'm going to get a new galvo chassis as mine's pretty knackered. I am hoping to be able to et some brush-on etch primer so I can put some chassis black on to 'disguise' the newness of it from prying eyes. I am pretty close to Nu-Agane paint supplier in Bedford so they should be able to supply me with the right stuff. I think Frosts do the chassis black?