Are modern bicycles expensive crap?
Discussion
I'm restoring an old Mongoose and it's chrome parts are in remarkable condition, the snowflake chainwheel looks incredible. I recently did a Burner and likewise, all of the metalwork has come up really well considering these are thirty year old bikes.
I rode BMXs when I was at school, and the bikes did not have an easy life at all.
Fast forward twenty-five years or so and everything needs to be replaced all the time, I'm told to expect a few months use from a drive train, I've just had to replace a tyre after less than 500 miles etc. etc.
I realise I may be clocking up a few more miles these days but my last pampered GT mountain bike had to have at least three drive trains, new forks, countless new brakes. Has technology not improved since the 1980s?
The usual response is spend more money but my current bike isn't exactly Halfords crap.
I rode BMXs when I was at school, and the bikes did not have an easy life at all.
Fast forward twenty-five years or so and everything needs to be replaced all the time, I'm told to expect a few months use from a drive train, I've just had to replace a tyre after less than 500 miles etc. etc.
I realise I may be clocking up a few more miles these days but my last pampered GT mountain bike had to have at least three drive trains, new forks, countless new brakes. Has technology not improved since the 1980s?
The usual response is spend more money but my current bike isn't exactly Halfords crap.
I also don't remember taking my burner on anything other than the street or gravel tracks, where as my MTB has to put up with all that and equivalent jumps, plus proper off road in all conditions + an extra 10st, I remember the wheel rim buckling pretty easy on the burner, the seat cracking and the BB & one piece cranks being particularly weak.
Given the abuse my bike gets + my 16.5st, I reckon it does ok in comparison. + my MTB is probably lighter with suspension (HT), gears & disc brakes.
I reckon a modern BMX would put up much better with the same exposure to what you did when you were a kid. Even with the extra weight.
I do agree with the chrome though, triple plating British chroming was a quality product on loads of bike when I was young, newer processes have nothing to touch it in the shine & longevity stakes.
Given the abuse my bike gets + my 16.5st, I reckon it does ok in comparison. + my MTB is probably lighter with suspension (HT), gears & disc brakes.
I reckon a modern BMX would put up much better with the same exposure to what you did when you were a kid. Even with the extra weight.
I do agree with the chrome though, triple plating British chroming was a quality product on loads of bike when I was young, newer processes have nothing to touch it in the shine & longevity stakes.
Edited by anonymous-user on Thursday 23 June 16:21
OneDs said:
Given the abuse my bike gets + my 16.5st, I reckon it does ok in comparison. + my MTB is probably lighter with suspension (HT), gears & disc brakes.
You see this is where I disagree with you, my childhood BMXs were utterly abused, lightweight Araya rims flying over kerbs or through the woods. Taking bad landings when crazy stunts went wrong and even being left in the garden overnight. Conversely my modern bikes lead pampered lifestyles, are used mostly on road and sometimes on tracks but very rarely leave the ground and yet constantly break.
I really want a road bike but can't afford to shell out a minimum £500 only to be fixing the damn thing every month.
mattviatura said:
OneDs said:
Given the abuse my bike gets + my 16.5st, I reckon it does ok in comparison. + my MTB is probably lighter with suspension (HT), gears & disc brakes.
You see this is where I disagree with you, my childhood BMXs were utterly abused, lightweight Araya rims flying over kerbs or through the woods. Taking bad landings when crazy stunts went wrong and even being left in the garden overnight. Conversely my modern bikes lead pampered lifestyles, are used mostly on road and sometimes on tracks but very rarely leave the ground and yet constantly break.
I really want a road bike but can't afford to shell out a minimum £500 only to be fixing the damn thing every month.
Also remember an average (circa £2k) full sus mountain bike is several orders of magnetude more complex than your BMX and I wuld guess, a similar weight...
mattviatura said:
I really want a road bike but can't afford to shell out a minimum £500 only to be fixing the damn thing every month.
2832 miles on my road bike so far and the only parts I have replaced are a couple of inner tubes (which could have been patched if I wasn't lazy).I've not even had to replace the tyres or brake pads yet.
mattviatura said:
...my last pampered GT mountain bike had to have at least three drive trains...
These days I replace the chain every 500-750 miles. Hence my latest MTB has done 2000 miles on the original gearing, as opposed to requiring new chainrings and cassette when I changed the chain after 1500-2000 miles.I also clean the chain & gears regularly to avoid a fine grinding paste from building up on them over time, something I neglected in the past!
I'm actually tempted to spend £200 on a Raleigh Pursuit from Go Outdoors and treat it as a consumable, accepting that I'll have to throw it away in a few months.
I want to see if I enjoy road riding and it makes more sense than spending £500 only to have to spend another £100 replacing the drivetrain every six months.
Edited because my post crossed with Funkateer's. I keep everything very clean indeed (more expense what with Muc Off etc.) and I've been told that when I change the chain I have to change everything.
Perhaps the BMX example I gave was a bad one, in the early 90s I bought a Diamond Back mountain bike and it lasted for years before anything needed replacing.
Cycling really didn't use to be this costly.
I want to see if I enjoy road riding and it makes more sense than spending £500 only to have to spend another £100 replacing the drivetrain every six months.
Edited because my post crossed with Funkateer's. I keep everything very clean indeed (more expense what with Muc Off etc.) and I've been told that when I change the chain I have to change everything.
Perhaps the BMX example I gave was a bad one, in the early 90s I bought a Diamond Back mountain bike and it lasted for years before anything needed replacing.
Cycling really didn't use to be this costly.
Edited by mattviatura on Friday 24th June 07:12
Its an interesting point
I've been pretty disappointed with the general quality of the fixings on my bike (£600 Dawes Hybrid)
Bolts seem to rust pretty quickly and generally things seem to deteriorate even when you are not riding it.
I have 2 Dutch "Oma" bikes that I brought back from Holland and left open to the elements in the garden for two years. I needed to use them one day and just pumped the tyres up and away they went - the the chrome was still in good condition brakes and running gear worked no problem.
If left any of my UK bikes outside for that length of time they would be scrap (Dutch bikes weigh a ton though...)
I've been pretty disappointed with the general quality of the fixings on my bike (£600 Dawes Hybrid)
Bolts seem to rust pretty quickly and generally things seem to deteriorate even when you are not riding it.
I have 2 Dutch "Oma" bikes that I brought back from Holland and left open to the elements in the garden for two years. I needed to use them one day and just pumped the tyres up and away they went - the the chrome was still in good condition brakes and running gear worked no problem.
If left any of my UK bikes outside for that length of time they would be scrap (Dutch bikes weigh a ton though...)
This is an interesting topic. Back in the late 80’s and 90’s I remember bikes disintegrating with rust, bent wheels, mangled mechs, rounded square tapers, busted s
ters, etc. The only thing that never broke was the headset, no mater how cheap the bike it would always steer smoothly. Up till my late teens I must have gone through 6 or 7 cheap bike that have all been chucked away but in the last 10 years I have never thrown away a bike.
ters, etc. The only thing that never broke was the headset, no mater how cheap the bike it would always steer smoothly. Up till my late teens I must have gone through 6 or 7 cheap bike that have all been chucked away but in the last 10 years I have never thrown away a bike.Spleeble said:
This is an interesting topic. Back in the late 80’s and 90’s I remember bikes disintegrating with rust, bent wheels, mangled mechs, rounded square tapers, busted sters, etc. The only thing that never broke was the headset, no mater how cheap the bike it would always steer smoothly. Up till my late teens I must have gone through 6 or 7 cheap bike that have all been chucked away but in the last 10 years I have never thrown away a bike.
Interesting how experiences differ.ters, etc. The only thing that never broke was the headset, no mater how cheap the bike it would always steer smoothly. Up till my late teens I must have gone through 6 or 7 cheap bike that have all been chucked away but in the last 10 years I have never thrown away a bike.My early 90s bikes are both in mint condition.
531c steel training bike
653 steel race bike
Get Karter said:
Spleeble said:
This is an interesting topic. Back in the late 80’s and 90’s I remember bikes disintegrating with rust, bent wheels, mangled mechs, rounded square tapers, busted sters, etc. The only thing that never broke was the headset, no mater how cheap the bike it would always steer smoothly. Up till my late teens I must have gone through 6 or 7 cheap bike that have all been chucked away but in the last 10 years I have never thrown away a bike.
Interesting how experiences differ.ters, etc. The only thing that never broke was the headset, no mater how cheap the bike it would always steer smoothly. Up till my late teens I must have gone through 6 or 7 cheap bike that have all been chucked away but in the last 10 years I have never thrown away a bike.My early 90s bikes are both in mint condition.
531c steel training bike
653 steel race bike
My current bikes, (1994 Cannondale Killer V and 1999 Kona Roast) are still going, but I have replaced every single part on the Cannondale and 70% of the Kona, this is only because I left both bikes outside for 6 years.
mattviatura said:
Very.
What's the consensus on my idea of buying a cheap Raleigh and treating it as a consumable?
You'd be better off getting a bullet proof bike to start with.What's the consensus on my idea of buying a cheap Raleigh and treating it as a consumable?
Alfine hub, simple hydraulic disc brakes, steel frame & rigid forks, here get this
http://www.chargebikes.com/products/bikes/detail.p...
At least you'll enjoy riding it more.
Edited by anonymous-user on Friday 24th June 13:12
mattviatura said:
I really want a road bike but can't afford to shell out a minimum £500 only to be fixing the damn thing every month.
Road bikes don't really wear out. Keep the chain clean and oiled, grease the bearings every few months, and it'll run forever.MTBs are a different kettle of fish. They basically grind their way through thick gritty paste and get whacked by hard objects all the time.
I brought a Giant Defy4 13 months ago and have used it daily for my commute to work, except the icey/frosty bits of the winter in December and Jan.
I keep it clean and well maintaned but don't go overboard on it but was a bit surprised to find after 1500 miles the chain is well worn as you can lift it almost over the teeth on the chainring its stretched that much. I figured that with bikes built to a price a lot of cheap bits are put on which wear very quickly or are just plain crap, like the tyres it came on were rubbish and the chain too.
All the other bits seem to be working nicely, it has no-name Shimano shifters and brakes and they work great so I think generally quality is very good on modern bikes.
Back in the 80's and 90's I used to ride with a club and very rarely had to change the chain and rear block but when I did I used to use some real expensive chains -Sedis I think they were, so I shall be putting a very high quality chain on the Giant.
I keep it clean and well maintaned but don't go overboard on it but was a bit surprised to find after 1500 miles the chain is well worn as you can lift it almost over the teeth on the chainring its stretched that much. I figured that with bikes built to a price a lot of cheap bits are put on which wear very quickly or are just plain crap, like the tyres it came on were rubbish and the chain too.
All the other bits seem to be working nicely, it has no-name Shimano shifters and brakes and they work great so I think generally quality is very good on modern bikes.
Back in the 80's and 90's I used to ride with a club and very rarely had to change the chain and rear block but when I did I used to use some real expensive chains -Sedis I think they were, so I shall be putting a very high quality chain on the Giant.
Parrot of Doom said:
Road bikes don't really wear out. Keep the chain clean and oiled, grease the bearings every few months, and it'll run forever.
MTBs are a different kettle of fish. They basically grind their way through thick gritty paste and get whacked by hard objects all the time.
But Parrot the thing is my mountain bikes are pretty much used as road bikes, on the rare occasions they venture off road it's a farm track or towpath.MTBs are a different kettle of fish. They basically grind their way through thick gritty paste and get whacked by hard objects all the time.
As I said earlier my 90s Diamond Back lasted for ages without needing replacement parts, in fact I think I've still got the original Biopace chain ring somewhere.
You must be doing something wrong then. My Commencal has had the following replacements, ridden mostly through mud/crap/rocks/roots:
New seatpost (flawed design on the Raceface, cracked after 2 years)
New granny ring (alloy XT chainring, replaced with steel)
Lots of Brake pads (replaced with Superstar pads)
New rear wheel (replaced an XT with a Hope hub, the XT was designed badly)
New bottom bracket (replaced XT BB with Chris King)
Couple of new cassettes and chains (mud, mud, mud)
Couple of sleeves for the bottom rear shock eyelet (£10 a time)
Couple of new tyres, tend to last about 2,000 miles each
All this is since Sept 08, the bike is treated harshly. I'd say the above was pretty good considering the abuse it gets, the only disappointment was the XT rear hub, but that's a crap design and I couldn't source replacement parts. No such problems with the Hope.
Face it, everything these days is about cost and weight. Whereas your old gear would use steel, these days its the cheapest crappiest alloy you can find. If you spend a little more, and sacrifice a pound or so in weight, the gear will last a hell of a lot longer. A point in case is the granny ring I now have - a cheapo steel Shimano replacement, not even a slight bit of wear on it. The middle ring, still alloy, is worn to nothing.
New seatpost (flawed design on the Raceface, cracked after 2 years)
New granny ring (alloy XT chainring, replaced with steel)
Lots of Brake pads (replaced with Superstar pads)
New rear wheel (replaced an XT with a Hope hub, the XT was designed badly)
New bottom bracket (replaced XT BB with Chris King)
Couple of new cassettes and chains (mud, mud, mud)
Couple of sleeves for the bottom rear shock eyelet (£10 a time)
Couple of new tyres, tend to last about 2,000 miles each
All this is since Sept 08, the bike is treated harshly. I'd say the above was pretty good considering the abuse it gets, the only disappointment was the XT rear hub, but that's a crap design and I couldn't source replacement parts. No such problems with the Hope.
Face it, everything these days is about cost and weight. Whereas your old gear would use steel, these days its the cheapest crappiest alloy you can find. If you spend a little more, and sacrifice a pound or so in weight, the gear will last a hell of a lot longer. A point in case is the granny ring I now have - a cheapo steel Shimano replacement, not even a slight bit of wear on it. The middle ring, still alloy, is worn to nothing.
Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff