Day 1 of head gasket repair

[dixiebabes]

Bonnet off and making a start looks like a racer yeah.





Its easy this.



Up on stilts and draining the heads.



Plenium off needs a cleasn under there



Yup wheres me rag at cleaning time



Valley gasket jeez theres bits and bolts everywhere



Now its getting scary for me



OMFG i hope i know how this all goes back together



We have killed her sniff sniff



Nar night sweetheart dont go and die on me i'll be back tomorrow. Kim i have killed our baby i think she is on life support.


Dix

[mrzigazaga]

Your'll be up and running in no time..Might be worth putting some old towels or a blanket around the outside of the engine bay on the body just to avoid grease and potential scratches..Dont talk to him too much or give him to much tea as he will never finish in time for BBWF..

Good to see it being started on..I bet its a big relief..Ziga

[dixiebabes]

He cant half sup tea like Zig, and hes making me do all the dirty jobs underneath wich i dont mind at all. We are struggling to get the manifolde bolts off through acess. Any ideas lads?

Dix

[mrzigazaga]

Is everything out the way thats in the way?..You should be able to get to the top bolts but i imagine the lower ones will be a pain..Can they be got to from underneath or from the wheel arch?..I would guess its tighter than a nuns camel toe under there..Ziga

[chedder]

A blow torch to warm them up helps!

Chedder

[dixiebabes]

The other ones wer'nt tight Cheddar just cant get a access for a spanner in and getting the locking shims off are a nightmare. We will get there in the end. Anyone know where i can get replacement locking shims for the manifold bolts lads?


Dix

[chedder]

[quote=dixiebabes]The other ones wer'nt tight Cheddar just cant get a access for a spanner in and getting the locking shims off are a nightmare. We will get there in the end. Anyone know where i can get replacement locking shims for the manifold bolts lads?

Didnt have them on before my rebuild, never used them during the rebuild....never had a problem, but did use multi layer crush type exhaust gaskets.
But yes...the bolts are a bit fiddly, easier to unbolt the engine from the mounts and move it round a bit on a trolly jack, you can then get access from above and below.

Chedder

[JMF894]

Much braveness Dix



Good luck and fair play to yer.

Jimbo

[dixiebabes]

That's not a bad idea cheddar never thought of that. Getting the rocker covers dipped in HF today that should bring them up nice and sparkly.

Dix

[adam quantrill]

I've never seen locking shims on a Wedge - more of a Rover thing.

Just make sure you nip up the manifold bolts again after a couple of heat cycles.

Take the opportunity to clean out any obstructions in the V which might stop oil dripping onto the cam.

Also before removing/after replacing heads turn the engine over and check the rockers all moving equally - you don't want to go back in again for a camshaft change a year later. You can do this by hand if preferred - 4th gear and rotate one of the rear wheels.

My main hassle was using a massive breaker bar to remove the head bolts - go round and crack each one in turn and do back up slightly, this might make the job easier. I think I used a special 12-point socket on mine as I recall. The last one on mine wouldn't budge for ages and the breaker bar hit the windscreen when it eventually let go!

Looking good so far... good luck...

[Number 7]

For a little more money, it's worth using a set of ARP head studs. You can also leave out the 4 outer head bolts, as these can cause twisting of the head and HG failure. You can aso get ARP 12 point exhaust manifold bolts (from ACT I think) that have smaller heads than the normal bolts.

[dixiebabes]

Adam we have turned the engine over by hand just before we removed the rocker arms everything seemed to be moving in time and correctly which was a telief. When you start taking bits off its a bit daunting but I'm starting to enjoy it as we reach the heads. Everything is covered up and we are going to take the heads off after I finish at 1 today. we are going to grind the valves back in and give everything a jolly good scrub. Fingers crossed we are looking good for the bbwf I just hope we don't come across any damage when we take the heads off.

Any other pitfalls to watch out for as all your advice up to now has been spot on boys and thanks again.

Dix

[TOPTON]

As has been said, locking tabs are not required, non on mine when took the exhaust off and I didn't put any back on, just as Adam says, re tighten after a few warm ups.
A new composite valley gasket and end seals would be good, if you haven't already thought of http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=144 I think the end seals are a couple of £ extra

And the ARP manifold bolts http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=222

I'm not associated in any way with v8tuner, but I have used them in the past and their prices and service I found A1

DON'T PUT COPPERSLIP ON MANIFOLD BOLTS, but your man should know that

Edited by TOPTON on Friday 24th June 09:18

[rev-erend]

Good work so far .. looks a bit gummy in the heads where the old oil
has baked on.

Petrol will have them looking like new in no time.

[Number 7]

TOPTON said:

DON'T PUT COPPERSLIP ON MANIFOLD BOLTS, but your man should know that

Edited by TOPTON on Friday 24th June 09:18

I that because of the potential dissimilar metals corrosion thing? I have to say, I've always done so, and never experienced any problems.

[chedder]

Number 7 said:

TOPTON said:

DON'T PUT COPPERSLIP ON MANIFOLD BOLTS, but your man should know that

Edited by TOPTON on Friday 24th June 09:18

I that because of the potential dissimilar metals corrosion thing? I have to say, I've always done so, and never experienced any problems.

Also likely that copper slip has the potential to melt and in effect weld the bolts in place.

Chedder

[pwd95]

dixiebabes said:

We are struggling to get the manifolde bolts off through acess. Any ideas lads?

Dix

Got this down to a fine art now, having done headgaskets on the 450i & replacement manifold gaskets on the 450SE twice. For the drivers side, rear, lower ones you have to lean across the engine from the passenger side & get your arm down alongside the bulkhead & underneath. The front ones are acessible from the front of the engine as normal. Similar technique for the otherside if necessary.

[dixiebabes]

Cheers wyn wedges gotta love em eh Sheesh!

Dix

[rev-erend]

Seem to remember I had to jack the engine up on each side to fit the heads.. with the studs already in place.

Bit fiddly but do able.

[TOPTON]

chedder said:

Number 7 said:

TOPTON said:

DON'T PUT COPPERSLIP ON MANIFOLD BOLTS, but your man should know that

Edited by TOPTON on Friday 24th June 09:18

I that because of the potential dissimilar metals corrosion thing? I have to say, I've always done so, and never experienced any problems.

Also likely that copper slip has the potential to melt and in effect weld the bolts in place.

Chedder

Yep, thats the one. The grease in copperslip is not high melting point stuff, so in effect acts like flux does to solder, allowing the melting copper to flow around the bolt welding it in place as it cools. Doesn't always happen but the fact that it could is good enough for me not to use it in extreme heat conditions