mk1 MR2 buying advice?
Discussion
I recently posted regarding the purchase of a car for a nominal budget of £1000 to take to the Nurburgring for a stag weekend. That is still a possibility but I came to the realisation that £1000 would not really buy a nice example of anything, let alone something that I would want to keep afterwards. Looking at my shortlist, I realised that the only car on my list that I would love to own is a mk1 MR2 (preferably a late model T-Bar in red with leather). I think that it would be worth raising the £1000 limit a bit to find a well-looked after example as I have seen some nice-looking examples advertised for not much more.
I wasn't keen on the looks when they were new but now I think they look great in a retro 1980s way and also very relevant to today's roads. Light, fast enough to be fun but at legal speeds and not too heavy on the juice. I would love one in the garage for fair weather use and although I would always buy a car because I like it rather than as an investment, they may even appreciate in value.
I know the mk2 and mk3 MR2s are faster, newer and more plentiful but I just don't want them in the same way as I would like a mk1. The stag do is still a while away (2012) so I may try to acquire one and run it over the summer to sort out any problems and I may yet go down the sensible route and hire a car at the Nurburgring rather than take my own.
Unfortunately, I know nothing about MR2s other than rust can be an issue. Where do they rust, is it mostly superficial or structural and are there any other potential problems that I need to be aware of? Also, do they have power steering, as I may have difficulty convincing the OH if they don't or is the steering light enough anyway due to the mid-engined configuration?
I wasn't keen on the looks when they were new but now I think they look great in a retro 1980s way and also very relevant to today's roads. Light, fast enough to be fun but at legal speeds and not too heavy on the juice. I would love one in the garage for fair weather use and although I would always buy a car because I like it rather than as an investment, they may even appreciate in value.
I know the mk2 and mk3 MR2s are faster, newer and more plentiful but I just don't want them in the same way as I would like a mk1. The stag do is still a while away (2012) so I may try to acquire one and run it over the summer to sort out any problems and I may yet go down the sensible route and hire a car at the Nurburgring rather than take my own.
Unfortunately, I know nothing about MR2s other than rust can be an issue. Where do they rust, is it mostly superficial or structural and are there any other potential problems that I need to be aware of? Also, do they have power steering, as I may have difficulty convincing the OH if they don't or is the steering light enough anyway due to the mid-engined configuration?
They can rust almost everywhere, good ones are still about though. I loved mine, bought sight unseen from ebay (!) but it turned out to be 99% solid. Wasn't anything special to drive until I spent the same again on new bushes, shocks, springs, ARBs and big brakes. After that lot it was awesome on road and on track, pointy handling, beautiful steering, really characterful engine. I sold it for a decent price to make room for my Fisher, but I am sure I will have another one day, I miss that more than any of my other old cars.
Rust around rear arches, around windscreen, front cross member, sills, B pillars and numerous other places. Usualy not superficial, I suspect the majority of these cars that have been scrapped have been due to rust.
A common problem at higher mileages is fifth gear popping out under load, which involves a gearbox rebuild or good s/h box.
Buyers guide
A common problem at higher mileages is fifth gear popping out under load, which involves a gearbox rebuild or good s/h box.
Buyers guide
I've had four of them. Fantastic toys. If you have it checked out well/inspected then go for it. Only one of mine rusted really, that was the last one I bought and that's because I just wanted another one so bought the first one I saw - didn't even notice the huge rust in the engine bay.... That was a fairly expensive mistake...
As with many other 20 year plus cars, there is now a fair bit to go wrong with them, so a good example is important...
As with many other 20 year plus cars, there is now a fair bit to go wrong with them, so a good example is important...
I was thinking this one looked pretty sweet for £1500!
http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-pa...
http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-pa...
Mr2Mike said:
Rust around rear arches, around windscreen, front cross member, sills, B pillars and numerous other places. Usualy not superficial, I suspect the majority of these cars that have been scrapped have been due to rust.
A common problem at higher mileages is fifth gear popping out under load, which involves a gearbox rebuild or good s/h box.
5th gear is only really a problem with the Mk1a's, the Mk1b's (1986ish onwards) had the beffier C52 gearbox (IIRC) which fixed it. A bit of a twitch from the gearstick on lift off in 5th is worn engine mounts and nothing to worry about.A common problem at higher mileages is fifth gear popping out under load, which involves a gearbox rebuild or good s/h box.
Rust IS the killer ,and the rust that kills them is not in obvious places or visible to the untrained eye.
Chassis rails where the front ARB mounts and the seams down the rear of the front arches inside the cabin rust out, and will write your car off come MOT time. Arches might look ugly, Chassis rot (base of A pillars is another spot, and B pillars...and floor pans.... you get the picture) kills the car.
Great cars though... but I have to say this: Buy a good one for £1,000 ,spend the £1,000 on tidying it up (suspension, brakes and bushes are a must, they handle sublimely when right!) And suddenly a 2003 Mk3 which is lighter, younger and more powerful for just £3k starts to look very attractive.
Pistonheads, where a £1k car becomes a £3k car.....
Anyway, here's my ex.
Edited by WeirdNeville on Saturday 25th June 23:01
WeirdNeville said:
5th gear is only really a problem with the Mk1a's, the Mk1b's (1986ish onwards) had the beffier C52 gearbox (IIRC) which fixed it. A bit of a twitch from the gearstick on lift off in 5th is worn engine mounts and nothing to worry about.
Rust IS the killer ,and the rust that kills them is not in obvious places or visible to the untrained eye.
Chassis rails where the front ARB mounts and the seams down the rear of the front arches inside the cabin rust out, and will write your car off come MOT time. Arches might look ugly, Chassis rot (base of A pillars is another spot, and B pillars...and floor pans.... you get the picture) kills the car.
Great cars though... but I have to say this: Buy a good one for £1,000 ,spend the £1,000 on tidying it up (suspension, brakes and bushes are a must, they handle sublimely when right!) And suddenly a 2003 Mk3 which is lighter, younger and more powerful for just £3k starts to look very attractive.
Pistonheads, where a £1k car becomes a £3k car.....
Anyway, here's my ex.
Nice colour. I don't think I've ever seen one in that colour before!Rust IS the killer ,and the rust that kills them is not in obvious places or visible to the untrained eye.
Chassis rails where the front ARB mounts and the seams down the rear of the front arches inside the cabin rust out, and will write your car off come MOT time. Arches might look ugly, Chassis rot (base of A pillars is another spot, and B pillars...and floor pans.... you get the picture) kills the car.
Great cars though... but I have to say this: Buy a good one for £1,000 ,spend the £1,000 on tidying it up (suspension, brakes and bushes are a must, they handle sublimely when right!) And suddenly a 2003 Mk3 which is lighter, younger and more powerful for just £3k starts to look very attractive.
Pistonheads, where a £1k car becomes a £3k car.....
Anyway, here's my ex.
Metallic Grey cars are quite rare, as are dark blue cars. Lots of Super Reds about tho! If I were you, I'd save for a supercharger. I love mine, so much more oomph than the Mk.1b I had, especially with a couple of easy mods - oh yeah, definitely try and get one with renewed suspension.
Buy a rust free one, well as rust free as possible. It will be cheaper replacing engine and gearbox than fixing rust unless you can weld and paint yourself.
(Doing the welding yourself, not attaching electrodes and metal wire to yourself and colouring yourself blue.)
Mechanicals are easy, they are very reliable, they are awesome to drive.
(Doing the welding yourself, not attaching electrodes and metal wire to yourself and colouring yourself blue.)
Mechanicals are easy, they are very reliable, they are awesome to drive.
Bit of a project?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-MR2-Supercharger-Not-...
Looks like a hybrid Mk.1b with SC grunt and bits....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-MR2-Supercharger-Not-...
Looks like a hybrid Mk.1b with SC grunt and bits....
I happen to have one with a ton of welding done, but the rear arches still have holes in that need fixing and, well, it needs body work. The mechanics are good and it has a strong engine fitted. I will only sell it to someone who will look after it though rather than instantly scrap it.
Its currently sitting in a barn in Fordingbridge in the new forest with no tax and ticket, but if you tape over the wheel arch holes (they do have some tape on right now) it should pass.
Its currently sitting in a barn in Fordingbridge in the new forest with no tax and ticket, but if you tape over the wheel arch holes (they do have some tape on right now) it should pass.
Just to add, rust spots are...
Rear wheel arches and the sills behind the bodykit
top of windscreen
metal bar behind front bumper.
Mechanically the only thing that can play up is the alternator as rain water drains over it from the vents in the engine cowling but it is pretty easy to change out. People also love to abuse the coolant system so the engine overheats when that gets clogged up. Check the coolant for bubbles with the engine running and how much dirt is in it.
If people are using the toyota coolant (recommended but not strictly necessary) then you are looking for a ribena red colour, however. The car in the barn is using the red toyota coolant but my other MR2 has the common pink stuff from the autofactor and runs fine.
Rear wheel arches and the sills behind the bodykit
top of windscreen
metal bar behind front bumper.
Mechanically the only thing that can play up is the alternator as rain water drains over it from the vents in the engine cowling but it is pretty easy to change out. People also love to abuse the coolant system so the engine overheats when that gets clogged up. Check the coolant for bubbles with the engine running and how much dirt is in it.
If people are using the toyota coolant (recommended but not strictly necessary) then you are looking for a ribena red colour, however. The car in the barn is using the red toyota coolant but my other MR2 has the common pink stuff from the autofactor and runs fine.
Ive bought a couple over the years, both for about £1000 then spent about £1500 making them mint before stupidly selling them at a loss.
Always rusty sills and rear arches. My first one I bought hand made arches from a bloke in Scarborough who makes them, but they are pricey.
With this Mica blue one we found Cavalier sills and Meastro Wheel arches fit well, are cheap and readily available.
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