Relocation of coolant temp sender
Discussion
In order to improve the accuracy of the coolant temperature gauge, could somebody tell me where the standard coolant temp sender is (picture with arrow would be good) and also where the alternative position that has been mentioned on other posts is ( again a picture with an arrow would be good)? Also, if someone could give me details of the 120 ohm resistor that has been mentioned before, that would also be very much appreciated.
Cheers,
Ged
Cheers,
Ged
Hello
The RR sender is next to the thermostat housing
I think I used either a 100/120/150 ohm resistor I think it varys slightly on what sender you have and condition,
I have a few if you want one
I would take a picture but its far to hot to move, and currently iam sitting in my boxers with a fan in my face!
The RR sender is next to the thermostat housing
I think I used either a 100/120/150 ohm resistor I think it varys slightly on what sender you have and condition,
I have a few if you want one
I would take a picture but its far to hot to move, and currently iam sitting in my boxers with a fan in my face!
Edited by Alexdaredevilz on Tuesday 28th June 00:01
Alex,
Presumably I just fit a new temp sender in the RR location and plug in a 120ish ohm resistor in the loom - is that it in a nutshell?
Presumably the RR location has the same thread as the standard location?
Pics showing the current location (for me to disconnect the loom) and the RR location would be very helpful if you could.
Ged
Presumably I just fit a new temp sender in the RR location and plug in a 120ish ohm resistor in the loom - is that it in a nutshell?
Presumably the RR location has the same thread as the standard location?
Pics showing the current location (for me to disconnect the loom) and the RR location would be very helpful if you could.
Ged
CarlosV8 said:
Don't suppose I could grab a resistor or two? Would save me going into town to Maplin. I think my standard temp sender is on its way out, so an ideal time to revert to the RR one instead!
Cheers
Carl
No problems, pm your address or pop over Cheers
Carl
You can't but them at maplin, I ended up buying 30 off rs components plus a min order fee :-(
J400GED said:
Thanks Andy, but I thought the purpose of the resistor was to "tune" the sender to the gauge
Ged
It is, but the as sensors are non linear and the 2 sensors have different curves, all you are doing is frigging the gauge to read roughly correctly at one given temperature, at any other temps the reading will be less accurate the further you move from the calibration temperature.Ged
With this is mind I cant see the merit of doing this mod... but then I am an electronics calibration engineer & our calibrators are accurate to 4 parts in a million, so I tend to see things slightly differently sometimes..
Andy
I think a certain expert has banged on about that Gary and folks have blindly jumped on the wagon, I've never seen it either.. Arguably either original location (preserp/serp) is in better location for flow and submersion (behind + below the stat) than the LR one which could (and has been known) to sit in an air bubble IIRC.
Spend, what do you mean ".....and folks have blindly jumped on the wagon, I've never seen it either.. ". Just because someone picks up on a topic which makes sense to them as being a good idea, are they blindly jumping on the band wagon just because you haven't seen any problem yourself? Do you know better than everyone else?
If the RR sender sits in an area where there is better coolant flow as opposed to a dead end, then it will react to changes in coolant temperature more readily than a sender that sits in a "dead end" and if that helps someone to react to a potential overheating situation sooner then all the better as far as I can see. I appreciate that these gauges aren't 100% per cant accurate and most will work with an off-set to actual temperature, but it's the reaction time of the gauge to a change of temperature that will help someone avoid overheating.
Ged
If the RR sender sits in an area where there is better coolant flow as opposed to a dead end, then it will react to changes in coolant temperature more readily than a sender that sits in a "dead end" and if that helps someone to react to a potential overheating situation sooner then all the better as far as I can see. I appreciate that these gauges aren't 100% per cant accurate and most will work with an off-set to actual temperature, but it's the reaction time of the gauge to a change of temperature that will help someone avoid overheating.
Ged
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



