Brake problem on 1968 Maserati
Discussion
Just looking for some advice and hope somebody can steer me in the right direction.....
I have recently bought a 1968 Maserati Mexico (4.2 V8) for refurbishment and the only major issue is the lack of brakes. There is no pedal pressure at all which would suggest a master cylinder failure. These cars have twin cylinders so is that likely, or could it be something else? I was thinking that if one master cylinder had failed, there would still be some pedal presure from the other or is that assumption wrong?
Should a bleed the whole system first or just refurbish the master cylinders anyway given that they're 43 years old?
Paul
I have recently bought a 1968 Maserati Mexico (4.2 V8) for refurbishment and the only major issue is the lack of brakes. There is no pedal pressure at all which would suggest a master cylinder failure. These cars have twin cylinders so is that likely, or could it be something else? I was thinking that if one master cylinder had failed, there would still be some pedal presure from the other or is that assumption wrong?
Should a bleed the whole system first or just refurbish the master cylinders anyway given that they're 43 years old?
Paul
I'm assuming from your post that it has been sat for a while. If that is the case at the very least the brake fluid will have absorbed some moisture so will need changing. You might have a leak at one of the calipers, or (rear drums on those?) at a wheel cylinder. If it were me and the price isn't excessive (related to the value of a bent Maserati!) I'd be inclined to change all the consumable brake parts, cylinder seals etc. and that includes the hoses as they have a major effect on feel and performance. I would probably replace the fluid with silicone whilst I was at it, but check first that it is compatible - same goes for any new fluid. Whilst it is apart check that all moving parts (pistons) are moving as they should and not sticking.
Edited by spoodler on Friday 1st July 17:14
Good luck with the refurbishment - but be prepared for some horrendous parts prices. I had one restored a few years ago and it was frightening compared to Jags - which I'm used to.
As I recall a lot of the mechanical bits, including the brakes, are standard British stuff and similar to Jags etc. of the period.
You probably already know how rare they are - mine was one of only five (I think) rhd models.
As I recall a lot of the mechanical bits, including the brakes, are standard British stuff and similar to Jags etc. of the period.
You probably already know how rare they are - mine was one of only five (I think) rhd models.
No pressure at all?
Is the brake pedal connected to the cylinder, i.e. when you push the brake pedal does it actuate the master cylinder lever?
Does the system have any fluid in it at all?
The master cylinder itself will not have any resistance to it (very little, just the seals) so just because you have no pressure does not necessarily indicate a master cylinder fault. A perfectly working system with no fluid in it, for example, would behave as you have described.
I would start by bleeding the system (or trying to...) if no fluid comes out of any of the bleed valves (open one, pump brake pedal, then move onto the next) then either the master cylinder is at fault or you have a leak. Does the car have a servo? If it does and you can't see a leak the fluid may be being pumped down the vacuum pipe into the engine, you might want to remove the pipe if you suspect this.
Brake fluid can be harmful to skin/animals and, more importantly, paintwork so wear gloves and clean any leaks.
ETA: just to add to what was said above, twice now I've started fixing braking systems and ended up changing all the cylinders and pads/shoes..usually discs and drums too. Once you disturb the old cylinders to fit pads or whatever they always leak after. I would disagree with the silicone brake fluid, I'd only use that on track cars but hey.
Is the brake pedal connected to the cylinder, i.e. when you push the brake pedal does it actuate the master cylinder lever?
Does the system have any fluid in it at all?
The master cylinder itself will not have any resistance to it (very little, just the seals) so just because you have no pressure does not necessarily indicate a master cylinder fault. A perfectly working system with no fluid in it, for example, would behave as you have described.
I would start by bleeding the system (or trying to...) if no fluid comes out of any of the bleed valves (open one, pump brake pedal, then move onto the next) then either the master cylinder is at fault or you have a leak. Does the car have a servo? If it does and you can't see a leak the fluid may be being pumped down the vacuum pipe into the engine, you might want to remove the pipe if you suspect this.
Brake fluid can be harmful to skin/animals and, more importantly, paintwork so wear gloves and clean any leaks.
ETA: just to add to what was said above, twice now I've started fixing braking systems and ended up changing all the cylinders and pads/shoes..usually discs and drums too. Once you disturb the old cylinders to fit pads or whatever they always leak after. I would disagree with the silicone brake fluid, I'd only use that on track cars but hey.
Edited by varsas on Friday 1st July 20:12
Jsut to add, calipers ATE, servo (if fitted) Girling, master cylinder ATE . . . . all the same as Masers from the 3500 through to the Ghibli (with the exceptio of a handfull of Ghiblis with twin calipers) same bits as used in some period Ferrari and Lambo as well, so all the parts to rebuild will be on the shelf 
AndrewW-G said:
neutral 3 said:
A Sixties Maserati, lovely car. Pretty sure that a lot of the brake system is Jaguar/Girling/Lockheed.
Owners club would know.
IIRC they are the same as a Ghibli, so would be ATE Owners club would know.
The whole system is Girling and given that there are no seat belts, i'll not take any short cuts. I'll budget for a full refurbishment including hoses.
Cheers
Paul
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