Please help me find the cause of this clunk
Discussion
Right, the situation.
I have a Saab 9000 and I have a click/clunk coming from the front end of the car, the noise being similar to the click you get from a torque wrench but its felt and heard through the car.
It is definitely coming from the front of the car, because I have had the OH put the handbrake on and lift the clutch slowly whilst in 1st to rock the car forward. I have been down at the front drivers' side wheel and it is coming from somewhere in there, I think. Once it has clicked whilst trying to pull forward, it won't do it again, but when the same it tried in reverse it clicks again and won't do it until it is tried in 1st again.
I have replaced the bushes in the rear of the front wishbones on both sides (they are common to go), the discs and pads, and all of the engine/gearbox mounts. The noise has not changed at all.
It also exists when you pull away (not if the pull away is gentle), and again it can click again when you lift off if particularly rough. Most noticeable in slow traffic.
Please help - it is driving me nuts!
I have a Saab 9000 and I have a click/clunk coming from the front end of the car, the noise being similar to the click you get from a torque wrench but its felt and heard through the car.
It is definitely coming from the front of the car, because I have had the OH put the handbrake on and lift the clutch slowly whilst in 1st to rock the car forward. I have been down at the front drivers' side wheel and it is coming from somewhere in there, I think. Once it has clicked whilst trying to pull forward, it won't do it again, but when the same it tried in reverse it clicks again and won't do it until it is tried in 1st again.
I have replaced the bushes in the rear of the front wishbones on both sides (they are common to go), the discs and pads, and all of the engine/gearbox mounts. The noise has not changed at all.
It also exists when you pull away (not if the pull away is gentle), and again it can click again when you lift off if particularly rough. Most noticeable in slow traffic.
Please help - it is driving me nuts!
Are your brake pads fitted correctly?
Did you tighten the bolts on the caliper properly?
Are you sure the bolts on the engine and gearbox mounts are tight?
Have you checked the condition of the bottom balljoint?
I would also check the top of the strut for a collapsed bearing and check if the bolts are tight.
Did you tighten the bolts on the caliper properly?
Are you sure the bolts on the engine and gearbox mounts are tight?
Have you checked the condition of the bottom balljoint?
I would also check the top of the strut for a collapsed bearing and check if the bolts are tight.
It's the pads moving in the caliper.
When you move, the pads move with the disc, only a millimetre or so, but then they slap against the other side of the caliper causing the click.
Same when you reverse.
Had it before.
HTH.
Sorry about the bill for all the new suspension - that could have been a good night with coke and hookers eh.
When you move, the pads move with the disc, only a millimetre or so, but then they slap against the other side of the caliper causing the click.
Same when you reverse.
Had it before.
HTH.
Sorry about the bill for all the new suspension - that could have been a good night with coke and hookers eh.
turbopug said:
Are your brake pads fitted correctly?
Did you tighten the bolts on the caliper properly?
Are you sure the bolts on the engine and gearbox mounts are tight?
Have you checked the condition of the bottom balljoint?
I would also check the top of the strut for a collapsed bearing and check if the bolts are tight.
All the brake work was done over the last week, and the problem was apparent before then, and has not changed since then so for this reason I do not think it's any of this.Did you tighten the bolts on the caliper properly?
Are you sure the bolts on the engine and gearbox mounts are tight?
Have you checked the condition of the bottom balljoint?
I would also check the top of the strut for a collapsed bearing and check if the bolts are tight.
The two engine mounts and the top arm (connects top of engine to bulkhead) were all changed/checked on the weekend and the problem was the same before and after, just like the brakes. Haven't checked the gearbox mount but that is the other side (pass side) but will check this tomorrow.
Haven't checked the bottom ball joint - will look tomorrow
The top of the strut was actually my next thought before I came on here. I will check that in a minute, with the OH loading the car (as mentioned before) and me keeping my hand on the top of the strut to see if I can feel anything in the strut.
Thanks
Ray Luxury-Yacht said:
It's the pads moving in the caliper.
When you move, the pads move with the disc, only a millimetre or so, but then they slap against the other side of the caliper causing the click.
Same when you reverse.
Had it before.
HTH.
Sorry about the bill for all the new suspension - that could have been a good night with coke and hookers eh.
The problem was apparent before and after the pad change so I don't think it is that.When you move, the pads move with the disc, only a millimetre or so, but then they slap against the other side of the caliper causing the click.
Same when you reverse.
Had it before.
HTH.
Sorry about the bill for all the new suspension - that could have been a good night with coke and hookers eh.
The bushes, mounts and brakes mostly needed doing anyway so I am not too worried about the cost - will start saving for that C+H again though!
Wing Commander said:
The problem was apparent before and after the pad change so I don't think it is that.
The bushes, mounts and brakes mostly needed doing anyway so I am not too worried about the cost - will start saving for that C+H again though!
That's because the metal pad backing plate is the same size whether they're new or old....The bushes, mounts and brakes mostly needed doing anyway so I am not too worried about the cost - will start saving for that C+H again though!
Jack the car up and move the front wheel on each side backwards and forwards slowly, and then you'll be able to see if it's that or not.
Ray Luxury-Yacht said:
That's because the metal pad backing plate is the same size whether they're new or old....
Jack the car up and move the front wheel on each side backwards and forwards slowly, and then you'll be able to see if it's that or not.
But when the car is held on the handbrake (rears) and you ever so gently let the clutch out, it clunks distinctively like a torque wrench. For this reason, I don't think it can be the brake pads.Jack the car up and move the front wheel on each side backwards and forwards slowly, and then you'll be able to see if it's that or not.
Wing Commander said:
But when the car is held on the handbrake (rears) and you ever so gently let the clutch out, it clunks distinctively like a torque wrench. For this reason, I don't think it can be the brake pads.
That's cos the front wheels will still move enough even with the handbrake on.But anyway, if you don't wanna check it despite thowing loads of money at other things, be my guest
Ray Luxury-Yacht said:
That's cos the front wheels will still move enough even with the handbrake on.
But anyway, if you don't wanna check it despite thowing loads of money at other things, be my guest
Forgive me - I honestly appreciate your input! But anyway, if you don't wanna check it despite thowing loads of money at other things, be my guest
All i'm saying is that the front wheels are moving super slow so I would expect the pads to move around at the same rate as the discs/wheels. I am not sure how this could make such a distinctive clunk.I have thrown enough money at the car already - basically becoming a trigger's broom!
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