Why won't my sump stop dripping oil?

[Mr Plow]

As the title says

"why won't my sump stop dripping oil?

I've removed the gasket and just use sealant.
Making sure the area is clean from old sealant and oil.
Use the Sealant recommended on here that you can get from a VW garage specifically for sumps.
Taken the sump off and bashed it about a bit the make sure it is straight and the bolt holes aren't raised.

All this and the b$%%&$y thing still leaks, although I did managed to do approx. 2000 miles this time. it's definately coming from the sump.

I'm using 5/50 oil.

Could it be:

That I'm using too thin an oil?
Tightening the bolts too much?
or something else?

Can anyone advise?

[SILICONEKID340HP]

You need more silicone

[Barreti]

I seem to recall Spend advising not to tighten the bolts up too tight initially when using silicone, then come back and pinch them up a bit when its dried, but don't over tighten them.

[spend]

Barreti said:

I seem to recall Spend advising not to tighten the bolts up too tight initially when using silicone, then come back and pinch them up a bit when its dried, but don't over tighten them.

That was so that you don't just squeeze all the silicone out whilst it is wet, Ian. I don't think it intrinsically helps with the leaky thread syndrome unless you are aware that oil can leak down the threads on some of the tappings, and make sure the bead runs all the way around bolt holes (sufficient to seal the threads when compressed.

It's so bloomin fiddly, and then getting it located (upside down) without smearing... studs & home made rubber is my solution ~ rest is purely idle comment these days...

I'd also check the PCV is working & clean in the OP's case not much you can do if oil is being pushed out by pressure to start with TBH.

[Ribol]

Mine is leaking from the two rear bolts - again.

My next trick will be to put studs in place of those two bolts and lock/seal them in with, you guessed it, Loc n Seal. Sealing the rest of the sump isn't a problem in my case, just those two bolts.

[chris2002hk]

I have the leaky sump problem also. I've bought a pre made silicone based gasket off a manufacturer from eBay . I'm rubbish with liquid silicone so hopefully this will work ( also bought a new set of nuts n sprung washers ) . Newspaper on the garage floor for last six month also worked

[scotty_d]

Never been a fan of these sealants, good cork gasket stopped mine leaking for the 3 years i had it.

[Harrytsg]

Part of the problem is the sump is a pressed steel item, not very strong. The flange that mates with the bottom of the block deforms around the bolt holes, these can be filed back but removing material will only make this area weaker (albeit only slightly), they should be dressed back but its not easy to get this right, especially without the right tools. Gaskets (and/or sealent) should address minor deformities but will only work up to a point. It might be worth checking the flange against a straight edge where you are having the issue, and dress back if you have the ability/tools. I have seen people make up a flat bar, drilled at the same intervals as the bolt holes that sits in the flange of the sump, then using longer bolts 'clamp' the flange against the engine block, though this does seem a little extreme.
If you can get the deformities to a minimum, a gasket and/or sealant should suffice.

[Mr Plow]

Thanks Everyone.

I have made an effort to try and straighten to sump so that its fits flush against the block, maybe I should try again.

Mine is also the couple of bolts at the rear that are leaking.

I was thinking of trying these, not necessarily to fix the leak, but to help with the alignment so that I don't smear selant everywhere, anyone changed to studs in preferenct to bolts?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...

Thanks again.

Liam

[Ribol]

Mr Plow said:

I was thinking of trying these, not necessarily to fix the leak, but to help with the alignment so that I don't smear selant everywhere, anyone changed to studs in preferenct to bolts?

The advantage of changing any of the bolts to studs is that you stand a much better chance of sealing the thread properly. Obviously that isn't an issue on the majority of them because they are down (or should we say up?) blind holes.
IMO the only two bolts that are a problem are the back two and for that reason I will be changing those to studs. I might also do the front two, more for consistency and alignment than other reasons as they have never never leaked.
From my experience, nice shinny plated studs/bolts are harder to seal than old tatty black ones, thread sealers seam to work better on a rough surface compared to new plated ones.

[spend]

Those are rubbish, just try getting plain nuts on the sump (upside down)!!!!!. You simply need plain socket set screws and flange nuts (they look like they have an integral washer so that they sit nicely in your socket).

[Ribol]

spend said:

Those are rubbish, just try getting plain nuts on the sump (upside down)!!!!!. You simply need plain socket set screws and flange nuts (they look like they have an integral washer so that they sit nicely in your socket).

I cut the heads off some old 5/16 UNC bolts I had and replaced all the bolts bar the one by the oil switch. Sealed them in place and used flat washers, spring washers with plain nuts - easy even upside down if you have the Snap On washer and nut retaining tool

[theaxe]

Are you sure it's not leaking from the sump-plug?